Clean oil is very important to all Ferrari engines and in particular the 360.
When cold it runs at very high pressures to ensure full lubrication. This means you need clean oil and oil thin enough to get the necessary films to the necessary moving parts.
The 360 needs the OEM UFI oil filter. It's not cheap but critical. Oil filter housings can expand with heat and pressure. The UFI's are built for this. Try an off brand and you'll be spending $25,000 to repair your engine.
The system holds 12 quarts when dry but you'll never get all of that out and you'll never get all of that in unless the engine is a full tear down.
During a change you'll get in about 10 quarts +/-.
And always check final oil level with the engine running and up to full temp. During a change put in about 9 litres and run the car to full temp. Check repeatedly as you gradually add the additional reguired oil. Overfilling is disastrous to these systems.
It's best to do on a lift but if not you'll need jack stands for the rear. You'll need to remove the under pan to get at the small tranny filter.
Of critical importance is torquing the filter to 25 Nm or about 18.5 ft-lbs. This is a must and having Hill Engineering's OFT-02 filter wrench is invaluable.
If you value your engine you will purchase this tool.
I use a Ferrari P/N 183962 magnetic gearbox plug as the engine sump plug. It will pick up any magnetic particles that are in there. They are not cheap either.
You also need 12 and 14 mm hex wrenches to remove the drain plugs. These also work on the tranny drain and refill.
I recommend Redline 5W40 oil. It is fantastic and cures problems. It is fully synthetic oil unlike some other so called "synthetic" oils.
I have the .pdf oil change procedure.
Happy to send out to anyone with an e-mail address.
When cold it runs at very high pressures to ensure full lubrication. This means you need clean oil and oil thin enough to get the necessary films to the necessary moving parts.
The 360 needs the OEM UFI oil filter. It's not cheap but critical. Oil filter housings can expand with heat and pressure. The UFI's are built for this. Try an off brand and you'll be spending $25,000 to repair your engine.
The system holds 12 quarts when dry but you'll never get all of that out and you'll never get all of that in unless the engine is a full tear down.
During a change you'll get in about 10 quarts +/-.
And always check final oil level with the engine running and up to full temp. During a change put in about 9 litres and run the car to full temp. Check repeatedly as you gradually add the additional reguired oil. Overfilling is disastrous to these systems.
It's best to do on a lift but if not you'll need jack stands for the rear. You'll need to remove the under pan to get at the small tranny filter.
Of critical importance is torquing the filter to 25 Nm or about 18.5 ft-lbs. This is a must and having Hill Engineering's OFT-02 filter wrench is invaluable.
If you value your engine you will purchase this tool.
I use a Ferrari P/N 183962 magnetic gearbox plug as the engine sump plug. It will pick up any magnetic particles that are in there. They are not cheap either.
You also need 12 and 14 mm hex wrenches to remove the drain plugs. These also work on the tranny drain and refill.
I recommend Redline 5W40 oil. It is fantastic and cures problems. It is fully synthetic oil unlike some other so called "synthetic" oils.
I have the .pdf oil change procedure.
Happy to send out to anyone with an e-mail address.
