A change of pace this weekend. Reg asked is I could help him by converting his QV intake for efi, so here we go.
The first thing is knock-out the CIS junk
The first thing is knock-out the CIS junk
QV efi conversion
mk e
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Thanks Crown Big Dog,,
Takes a while to study your thread,I take notes.
24mpg is VERY impressive,,
Has PN given thought to bring back in shop for COPs and 348 cams?
I couldn't find what cams you have?
mk e did the ports,,did you get the busa valve train //full tilt boogie/big valve/job
Thanks Big Dog
Takes a while to study your thread,I take notes.
24mpg is VERY impressive,,
Has PN given thought to bring back in shop for COPs and 348 cams?
I couldn't find what cams you have?
mk e did the ports,,did you get the busa valve train //full tilt boogie/big valve/job
Thanks Big Dog
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Cams are custom, no further mods are planned. I'm very happy with the ignition setup and see no reason at this point to change anything. If the HT spark plug wires fail prematurely I might, might consider COP but I would need to compare cost effectiveness. Cam grind and piston specs etc are all proprietary to PN. All valves custom as well. Don't forget we put in a 360 crankshaft. That's a game changer.
I think I misspelled Haltech as Haltek. Sorry still not sure which is correct.
I think I misspelled Haltech as Haltek. Sorry still not sure which is correct.
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327 Posts
This 308 vs 308 3.4 reminds me very much of 275 vs 330.Zippy vs Beefy,,the 330 is a stroked 275,,330 rumble,,275 rip the revs.Sir,what say you about the AASCO 102507 11 alloy flywheel? Thank You,keep your right foot down,,FORZA
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Haltech e11v2 brain,,it was top of the line 6yrs ago,,I have a Haltech wire harness and Im workin on that,,Cribbj got me on prius smart cops,they fit very snugly.the prius cops are $20 each,they are the same as a GS430 Lexus I serviced the other day,,,,the fit is really snug,,Nick F uses them on his personal Car w/ no bolt hold down.....,,No dizzys,no plug leads and Im making a cam sensor housing from CF,,lol,,Im digging for a 348 cam sensor housing.Thanks for your interest and input.
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That's pretty nice. Could you post how the COPs are wired in? Do they require a cam sensor or is crank sensor enough?
Are these them;
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281242755386
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2,214 Posts
Doc, not to speak for Reg, but if you're content to run a waste spark system, no cam sensor is required. Waste spark will fire each cylinder on both compression and exhaust strokes, and it only requires 4 ignition outputs (for a V8 engine).
If you want to fire each cylinder only on compression stroke, then you'll need a cam sensor, and your ECU must have 8 ignition outputs (for a V8).
If you want to fire each cylinder only on compression stroke, then you'll need a cam sensor, and your ECU must have 8 ignition outputs (for a V8).
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Thank you for that clarification. Then switching to COPs becomes a consideration vs replacing spark wires and distributor caps.
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I assume then I will need another "box" between the Haltech and the COPs?
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That depends.....
If you want to keep/use the Prius smart coils, which have the ignitors onboard, you shouldn't need another box, as the Haltech should be able to put out a logic level signal to turn the ignitors on & off & spark the coil. This will result in a straight, inductive ignition, which should work fine, unless you're running alky, nitromethane, or boosting to 3-4 bar. You'll have a good, simple & reliable ignition.
Should you have any thoughts about going with an aftermarket CDI box (MSD, etc.), then you'll need to rethink using the Prius coils. "Smart" coils like these, which have the ignitors onboard, preclude the use of CDI ignition (CDI's don't use ignitors).
CDI ignitions need "dumb" coils without the ignitors, and although most CDI boxes work OK with most dumb coils, they work best with those that are specifically designed for CDI.
If you want to keep/use the Prius smart coils, which have the ignitors onboard, you shouldn't need another box, as the Haltech should be able to put out a logic level signal to turn the ignitors on & off & spark the coil. This will result in a straight, inductive ignition, which should work fine, unless you're running alky, nitromethane, or boosting to 3-4 bar. You'll have a good, simple & reliable ignition.
Should you have any thoughts about going with an aftermarket CDI box (MSD, etc.), then you'll need to rethink using the Prius coils. "Smart" coils like these, which have the ignitors onboard, preclude the use of CDI ignition (CDI's don't use ignitors).
CDI ignitions need "dumb" coils without the ignitors, and although most CDI boxes work OK with most dumb coils, they work best with those that are specifically designed for CDI.
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I would stick with the smart coils, less engine noise than an external ignitor, and if I recall haltech has either + or - signal to the ignition outputs which you will need a + signal for the smart coils. I've used in many cars dumb coils with external ignitors but from here on out plan on smart coils.
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David they are not smart coils but dumb coils from a Suzuki GSXR motorcyle, they require a external ignitor like the AEM Twin fire (which I use) unit or an MSD DIS 4 unit. The problem in many of the aftermarket EFI systems is they are very substitutable to noise (EMF) from high voltage sources. The ignitors produce about 500V DC to the primary side of the coil which makes a great spark but also dependent of how you run your wires will feed back into the EFI computer causing a number of problems. Go with smart coils with built in ignitors, less problems and headaches. Smart coils have 4-5 wires, dumb coils just have 2.
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Jack, the ignitor itself doesn't boost the voltage to 500, it's only a solid state switch. It's the CDI boxes that boost the voltage.
Using ignitors and CDI boxes together is (usually) not recommended, although I "think" MSD and maybe the AEM Twin Fire both have some additional electronics in theirs which allow their boxes to accept either an ignitor signal (falling edge) or a normal ECU logic signal (rising edge) on their input.
For sure, a CDI box can't be used with smart coils that have built in ignitors.
Here are some workable ignition configurations, and one that won't work:
Using ignitors and CDI boxes together is (usually) not recommended, although I "think" MSD and maybe the AEM Twin Fire both have some additional electronics in theirs which allow their boxes to accept either an ignitor signal (falling edge) or a normal ECU logic signal (rising edge) on their input.
For sure, a CDI box can't be used with smart coils that have built in ignitors.
Here are some workable ignition configurations, and one that won't work:
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prius coil wire up
CrownDog,ck out COPs for 308,,Cribbj worked me thru the wiring,its simple,,Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to All FerrariLifers.
CrownDog,ck out COPs for 308,,Cribbj worked me thru the wiring,its simple,,Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to All FerrariLifers.
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On it and same wishes to all.
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Right. The ignitor is just a high current driver that can withstand a high voltage back EMF when the coil fires.
In early EFI systems, the ignitor is separate from the ECU in order to keep the high switched current and accompanying heat load out of the ECU.
Later systems move the ignitors back into the ECU to reduce the number of modules and can do so because advances in electronics reduced the heat loads of both the ECU processor/internal drivers and the ignitor.
Most modern systems use smart coils with the ignitor relocated again, this time from the ECU out to the coil, because that's just better systems engineering. It doesn't even reduce the wire count, as all the coils still need a high(er) current +12V and ground in addition to the lower current trigger wires from the ECU.
When the ignitor turns on and sends current to the coil primary winding, the changing magnetic field through the coil causes a back EMF that opposes the voltage the ignitor is applying to the coil, thereby slowing the rise of voltage and current through the coil. Because of this it takes some time (milliseconds) for the current in the coil to reach its steady-state level, even though the external voltage was stepped up instantly.
This is called an inductive load and is described as "current lags voltage".
Once the current has stopped rising and reached its maximum value, the coil is "charged" with the energy contained in the magnetic field. Then when the ECU tells it to fire the coil, the ignitor turns OFF the voltage (and current) going to the coil. The change in magnetic field opposes the drop in voltage, creating a back EMF in the *secondary* winding that tries to maintain the current flow through the coil. The result is a high enough voltage to bridge the spark plug gap and create a spark.
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Feul pressure reg position
,,Thanks CrownDog ,,,PN,,,I study,,,,,,I had feul pump feeding feul reg,,,into blocked feul rail,,,,,,,PN had feul reg @ the back door,,very nice tip PN,,lotsa room for feul reg @ the back door,,no room @ the front door..grazie,,
,,Thanks CrownDog ,,,PN,,,I study,,,,,,I had feul pump feeding feul reg,,,into blocked feul rail,,,,,,,PN had feul reg @ the back door,,very nice tip PN,,lotsa room for feul reg @ the back door,,no room @ the front door..grazie,,
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