[mk e]

Your crank is on it's way. 2-3 days I guess.

 

[Pizzaman]

Nice. Looking forward to the pics. How much do synchros cost for the 308? Are there any cross references that you found, or is it a dealer/Ricambi/GT Car Parts sort of deal?

Oh man, this brings back memories. Expensive memories.

 

[ferraripilot]

Crank arrived. It's beautiful. One thing I noticed upon measuring it are the rod and main journals are a good .0005 larger than the stock 308, which I am actually very much ok with as my rods are sized a bit on the high end of the spec. Means I will be running about .0019 clearance which is perfect for me.

 

[ferraripilot]

pics. note the gapless top rings. Dave made a very useful box to immobilize the crank and it arrived beautifully. The crank looks very nice although I will still have a light polish done on the journals probably Monday or Tuesday. Short block will be quick work after that. I checked crank rotation with the old main bearings cleaned up etc. Looking smashing.

 

[champagne612]

Thanks for sharing this build

350 - 375 hp wrapped in a GTB ... 4 sec 0 -60?

 

[duck.co.za]

As always , as soon as parts arrive we have action :yikes:
Good one John keep us posted :thumbsup:

 

[bretm]

Looking good! Man, you really do make progress once you set your mind to a goal.

 

[ferraripilot]

I installed all but one of the pistons. One of the gapless top rings was not completely flat and would bind no matter what I did. I tried it in a couple pistons, same issue. Deburring was not an issue. Anyway, I will handle it today with Total Seal and have the last one in soon after. The engine turns *really* easily. Is nice


I'm surprised the dome appearance is so evident. The dome itself is only .060 tall but the pics sure to make it appear larger. The tiny dome was added to bring compression up from 10:1 to 10.5:1 as flat they were 10:1.

 

[Fiorano]

great work in progress Ferraripilot. I wish I could even understand half of what I am looking at here never even mind be able to do it... thanks for sharing the project.

 

[Granucci]

.............I'm surprised the dome appearance is so evident. The dome itself is only .060 tall but the pics sure to make it appear larger. The tiny dome was added to bring compression up from 10:1 to 10.5:1 as flat they were 10:1.

Very nice. What do you compute the difference to be in output? I've heard 10.5 even a tiny bit more is not a problem in the 348 but always wondered at the HP increase.

 

[ferraripilot]

The difference between 10 and 10.5:1 probably isn't all that much. Maybe 15bhp in this situation. For me, I went with this compression ratio to keep the new dynamic compression ratio brought about by the cams as high as possible. The intake valve is closing a dozen or so degrees later than the original cams which does have a big impact on when and at what rpm peak cylinder pressure is made, hence the required static ratio increase. The end result of this build should be near 330bhp which will be nothing short of adequate in a 2800lbs car.

 

[a1exander]

I suspect that you may well be able to keep a 355 honest.

I did not realise that such a conversion would have so big an outcome.
Those pistons sure are eye candy.
Money and time well spent.( Although observations such as this coming from one petrol head to another mean little.)

 

[ferraripilot]

Not to be too off-topic here, but I really hate my 2v ports on these heads and wish I had something like Maserati made as a prototype engine they were supposed to put into production in '85. 6 valves! It made 270bhp from 2L, was carbureted with a single carb, and blown with two tiny water cooled turbos. Neat engine. Maser hold the patent for the 'fingers' which actuate all those valves.

 

[ferraripilot]

Gearbox is apart. Note that both shafts must come out at the same time and they are easily removed with the diff remaining in place. The ring nuts securing things were incredibly tight on the main shaft yet not quite as bad on the lay shaft.

I'm replacing synchros for 1, 2, and 3. The pic below shows 1st gear synchro which actually isn't all that bad. Two of the bearings aren't looking so good so I will probably replace them. The needle bearings are all in incredibly good condition. I was surprised.

 

[Pizzaman]

That brings back memories.

 

[ferraripilot]

That brings back memories.

It's a pretty easy gearbox to work on really. Once the large ring nuts are off it's smooth sailing. The linkages employ a practically failsafe method of installing as the 2-3rd gear shifter rod fork which (not the gear actuator fork, but the one which meets with the lever from the shift shaft) has a very specific one position it can be installed in which is done via a single bolt which inserts directly through the shaft. Everything else is pretty much lined up based on that one single shaft marker. I got the shafts in and out with my two hands otherwise and no extra help was necessary although some warned me it was absolutely needed as the 1st and Reverse gears were tricky to get right with the lay shaft while installing the main shaft at the same time. Pshhhh. Amatuers lol.

 

[brettgagnon]

You taking orders for rebuilds? (kidding)

I am, obviously, watching this intently as Paul is doing the same to Gertrude (3.4L that is)

 

[ferraripilot]

You're in very good hands. Paul is the man. He reassures me to what I am at times terrified of doing regularly. Your car will be awesome.

 

[ferraripilot]

I don't know why, but I am still beating my head against the wall figuring out what an acceptable baseline for ignition timing will be set to.

I'm no expert in thermal dynamics, but what I'm noticing is that the quench or squish area of the piston flat area I designed to be tighter yet the dome area is almost completely flat which is good for flame propogation but what's irking me is the hemispherical chamber is now left more open than before. Before, the chamber was filled with a dome which and we know domes to be in short, bad for efficiency requiring more total ignition timing. So, the squish band is better in one area but I'm unsure regarding the other.

What's I'll probably do is start at 33-34 total ignition timing all-in by 5k and adjust as needed. The cams of course are cause for question as well as their power band is higher thus more pressure at the higher rpm. Perhaps total ignition timing should come down after 5k to say 32 to accomodate for additional pressure?

 

[mk e]

I don't know why, but I am still beating my head against the wall figuring out what an acceptable baseline for ignition timing will be set to.

Really the ONLY good way to do the timing is on a dyno.

I'd start with about stock numbers and get it running and driving well and broken in well, then book 1/2 a day on a dyno and tune it. You want the minimum timing that makes peak torque. As you add timing you generally also add full so you have to go back and forth getting best mixture, then best timing, then back to mixture, back to timing....it always takes 3+ loops before you have it all right.

If you are starting with carbs then switching to EFI I'd safe dyno day for the EFI because carbs change with the temp and weather so it's a waste or time and effort tuning to perfection if you aren't going to change jets everyday to mathc the weather......which is effectively what EFI does for you.