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Look at leakage rate on launch
..if normal leakage (on) rate less than 60 then accumulator failed

Also how long does pump stay on ..how many seconds

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What i am looking for is some timing parameters so i can help diag the issue

Would like to know how long the F1 pump stays on and how long does it remain off ..duration and cycle times

I would like you to take note if those two items for the following

Door opening (new)

Key on but with engine off -dash lights on

Engine running in neutral

Then shut car off but put key into on position again

Then how many shifts do you get before you get pump to cycle ..

Shift from 1 to n to 1 and let me know how many shifts before pump turns on ..also note the same as above duration

Do the same shifting with engine running..

Tell me all those timing and hopefully we can get to one or two possible items to look into

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Everything you described in timing is pointing to a ( 99 percent sure ) bad accumulator as i mentioned in post 2

What i want to look into is the clutch life left as well

The other error you mentioned is normally when wear is around 70 percent

Get the clutch new position and calculated position ..minus the two and divide by 5.6
.that will give you percent used ..if more than 70 percent..then it is mostly likely the reason for the beyond pis error

Two different issues .. one thing i can't know for sure is if the pressure issue caused by bad accumulator is causing the other error ..but wear reading will confirm this

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Does the quantity of total available hydraulic fluid decreases in the reservoir? If not, you definitely would have an internal leak at the actuator allowing the fluid to flow back instantly depressurized as soon as the actuator is operated (failing teflon seals). It can also be a leaking solenoid valve at the Power Unit blocked open causing a big instant drop. EV #1/#3/#5 are all 3 used for N and 1st gear engagements.
Usually if cycle times and run times are good with engine off but not good with engine running ..that points to solenoid ..also he changed it already iirc

All that being said . Never a perfect science

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I just installed a brand new EVF, but I don't know hot to diagnose the rest of the solenoids. they do seem to operate fine and perform all the shifts at rest?
Just change the accumulator..280 dollars shipped to you .. authentic..like I said 99 percent sure

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I cannot recommend any place but here are two that came across my desk




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Changing the accumulator is a always a good thing to do but will not fix your issue. You have 100% an important internal hydraulic leak you need to fix as the pressure drop happens only when your engine is running. Checking your actuator would be a good start.

Some more useful tips here: Smart eMT F1 Relay ECU - Recommendations - SIS Techno - Scud Ing Swiss
Although it appears that the pressure drops fast when running it is also dropping fast when engine is off ..the pump cycle rate of one second is the key here .. one second is way too short. The accumulator is not storing enough reserve pressure to allow pressure to maintain longer. If solenoids and power unit are fine no fluid should be sent to actuator in neutral with engine running. The only circuit that should be energized with the engine running vs not running is the clutch circuit.

There may be multiple problems here but we need to start with fixing the short pump "on time " first and take it from there

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OK, as advised, I changed the accumulator and everything is fine now Thank you for all the kind support.
lesson learned, F1 ACUUMULATOR NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY 10 YEARS, regardless of mileage, the rubber membrane inside just disintegrates, ait trapped inside helps retain some pressure reservoir function, but the fluid aerated and pressure erratic, all kinds of weird shifting problems happen.
Glad you took my advice and it worked out

Did you buy from the place i mentioned ?

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Now that it is working fine
.you should post some graphs and cycle times (on and off ) so other will have a reference of a "good" system

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