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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well guys (and girls) I removed the cambelt covers and here is what greeted me. The crank main seal appears to have given up the ghost. The waterpump looks good, but I may rebuild it any since I'm in it up to my elbows now. Please share your thoughts.
 

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So what do you think caused it to go so soon? Could it have been scored by splines on the crank nose (or something) on the way in before, or maybe excess internal pressure from faulty breather valve (does it have one??)

I know you'll suss it out carguy, as you won't want to go through this again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not sure what caused it right now. I'll know more when I lock the cams down, remove the belts, and then remove the crank gears. Then I'll be able to see much more. The crankshaft is smooth, so no marks or nicks occured from that. But I've now heard the the seal inner diameter rubber lip should be "biased" inwards towards the motor, and not herniated outward. Does this make sense? THIS IS ONLY CONJECTURE at this time, I will post the facts when I have them. I was very careful when installing it last time, but must have missed some small detail. I'll let everyone know when I have more concrete information. Maybe I can spare some other poor soul from going through this.
 

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I like the positioning on the seat in the 001 picture. That looks like a perfect place to sit and ponder the problem... :-?

Hope you work out the problem. I'm sure you will.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow you have a cool classic car there too! Is that a Caddilac or a LaSalle? Also what kind of exhaust is on that Testarossa? Never seen anything like it. Is it two big crossflow mufflers with two inlets and outlets?
 

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Sorry there are six. I did not count the truck going down the raod.
XJS, and the TR are correct. It is a 38 but not a plymouth. No caddys inside or out. The light on fiender on the far right is a parking light. The car is a 1952 with regular round headlight on each side.
 

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carguy said:
I'm not sure what caused it right now. I'll know more when I lock the cams down, remove the belts, and then remove the crank gears. Then I'll be able to see much more. The crankshaft is smooth, so no marks or nicks occured from that. But I've now heard the the seal inner diameter rubber lip should be "biased" inwards towards the motor, and not herniated outward. Does this make sense? THIS IS ONLY CONJECTURE at this time, I will post the facts when I have them. I was very careful when installing it last time, but must have missed some small detail. I'll let everyone know when I have more concrete information. Maybe I can spare some other poor soul from going through this.
Have you got it back together yet? You are correct, the taper should point in towards the engine, not outward.

It looks like the engine on the TR is fairly easy to remove. How long did it take you to get it out? I have no idea how hard it is on the 308 and I hope I never have to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm still waiting on parts. I ordered lots of little odds and ends like fuel line seperator clips, coolant hoses and other stuff, so I can proudly show the motor off at our local car show this coming mother's day weekend. The TR motor is fairly removal-friendly, but still a lot of work for one person. I'm getting quite good at it now and would say if I put my mind to it I could take the motor out in one day if I had to. The first time I did it I took pics and notes, and lebelled everything. But now I know where everything goes, and can nearly do it in my sleep. The only spooky part is raising the car up high enough so the rear fender bottoms clear the tires as you roll the drivetrain out the back.
 
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