Joined
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566 Posts
Hi,
I think this information will be very useful to those of us with 308/328/MD types: I was ready to have a rebuilt rack put on when my technician (who is now considered a demi-god) decided to take off the inner rod and "discovered" that the ball joint can be easily tightened with a built-in screw: and just like that both sides are tight as new! [I went ahead with the new bushings and tie rod ends]
Before this my research seemed to lead only to rack-replacement or sending it out for "rebuilding", for costs anywhere from $150 to $350. My total cost for the removal/adjustment/reinstallation and coolant system leak search and tightening of a loose clamp [thank God it wasn't the H20 pump!] was @$235!!!!!!!!!!
I doubt that he is the first to come across this but I hope sharing this experience could save alot of hard-earned money for many of us.
I think this information will be very useful to those of us with 308/328/MD types: I was ready to have a rebuilt rack put on when my technician (who is now considered a demi-god) decided to take off the inner rod and "discovered" that the ball joint can be easily tightened with a built-in screw: and just like that both sides are tight as new! [I went ahead with the new bushings and tie rod ends]
Before this my research seemed to lead only to rack-replacement or sending it out for "rebuilding", for costs anywhere from $150 to $350. My total cost for the removal/adjustment/reinstallation and coolant system leak search and tightening of a loose clamp [thank God it wasn't the H20 pump!] was @$235!!!!!!!!!!
I doubt that he is the first to come across this but I hope sharing this experience could save alot of hard-earned money for many of us.
