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As I transformed my tail lights in such way that they work all 4 together in position light or brake light (all 8 halves), I had to reduce the current drained of 8 x 5W/21W light bulbs. It is impossible to power 168W (up to a theoretic 14 Amp) with the existing wire harnesses and fuses.


That’s how I started my research several months ago in hope to find the best LED light. The objective was to resolve 2 main issues with incandescent light bulbs :
  • important power consumption and current drain
  • high level of permanent heat in position (5W) and extreme heat in brake (21W)
  • short life time
The problem is that I wanted the LED’s to be at least as bright as the incandescent light bulbs. And that’s a real challenge especially if you want to keep the power consumption and heat at the lowest level. They must be also fit the tail lights which is quite tight. They can’t be larger than the standard light bulbs but there is a margin in the length.


Here are all the details of the best LED’s I found. I eliminated many of them which are not ever worth to be mentioned. Unfortunately, most of the LED’s you can find online or on Ebay fall in this category. Despite the commercials announcing “The brightest LED” etc, in reality, they are totally useless, and are even dangerous to be used as brake/stop lights at daylight. Many cheap LED lights failed also on my test bench after being permanently powered during a couple of hours in the brake/stop light position. That was far from the often announced 50.000 hours life time.


The LED technology has been evolving a lot during these last years and will continue to do so. Today, we’re far away of the classical 5mm LED. Most of the LED bulbs use the SMD technology which is quite cheap, runs at a reasonable current and heat but are still limited in terms of brightness. Most of the LED bulbs uses SMD LED’s. Hyperflex LED’s provide a much higher level of brightness but will heat easily. High power LED’s deliver an intense level of brightness but must be cooled by a serious heat sink.


Most of the LED lights are setup to run at exactly 12V. The problem is that most of the cars with a running engine will deliver a minimum of 14.5V. That means that the LED’s will be overpowered and will fail prematurely. This was the case with several SMD LED’s which failed after a couple of hours. Only the High Power LED’s have an integrated current driver. A current driver will deliver exactly the right current needed by the LED’s whatever the voltage is. Thus, they will never be overpowered.


All tested LED lights are standard dual contact S25/1157/BAY15D bulbs having a 15mm bayonet base. It’s essential that the bulbs have side LED’s in addition to the front LED’s to light up the entire tail light.


I truly tested the following LED’s during long periods of time. A couple of them failed immediately when shipped but have been replaced by the seller.


To compare the LED light brightness and effect with traditional 5/12 light bulbs, I took a picture of each of them under identical ambient light conditions. The left half of the taillight contains a 5/12 incandescent light bulb while the right half contains the tested LED light. It’s quite challenging to take a picture comparing both lights as a camera will flatten the light difference. The light difference in the pictures must be interpreted by at least doubling the difference you can observe to get closer to the real difference.


I measured also the maximum operation temperature reached after 2 minutes lighting up the position and stop lights with an ambient temperature of 17.4°C / 63.3°F. This measurement is important to know because it will tell how much heat the plastic tail light will have to deal with. This is especially the case when in some countries you have to use permanently the position lights as well as the time the stop lights will be used in traffic jams or at traffic lights (especially F1 cars).


Of course, such LED’s can not only be used on the F430 but in theory on any older Ferrari having the incandescent light bulbs.
Just received my ILUAL43, ILUAL3BL ,F-BrakeFlash V3, and Smart Turn Signal Lights ECU from Stef. It was packaged so well it would probably survive a one kiloton nuclear warhead near miss.

Looking forward to getting this safety item installed ASAP.

Thank you Stef!

Ray
 
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* NEW * Smart eMT Relay ECU - Important recommendation

Important Hydraulic oil recommendation


We often see that car manufacturers recommend an Automatic Transmission oil for the EMT hydraulic systems. I believe that this is a big mistake because such ATF oil is a friction oil and not a pressure oil. Oils like Shell Donax TX (recommended by Ferrari) is definitely a friction oil for Automatic Transmissions and doesn’t compress well with high pressures beyond 30 bars and under low or high temperature conditions. An EMT transmission like the Ferrari F1 system is 100% hydraulic with 0 friction and therefore, an oil must be used which is optimized for pressure and not for friction! Furthermore, friction ATF oils tend to foam and create deposits inside the hydraulic system.

My recommendation is to use a 100% hydraulic oil like Liqui Moly Central Hydraulic System Oil - LM1127 for your EMT hydraulic system. This oil is absolutely not foaming, is perfect for the e-valves and the entire hydraulic system since it doesn’t create any deposits, has perfect hydraulic properties even in cold conditions up to 130°C, has low temperature influence on the dynamic & kinematic viscosities, has low compressibility and perfect shear stability, has a viscosity index of 322 (DIN ISO 2909) compared to 169 for ATF oil, etc. As a result, EMT shift times will be significantly improved, E-Diff systems will run smoother and the hydraulic pump will last much longer as it takes shorter times to build up the pressure.

I use the LM1127 since now many years, as well on quite many other friends cars (including professional workshops), and believe me, the difference in feeling is real.

And remember, the hydraulic oil of EMT systems must be changed regularly and maximum every 25.000 km!

Download the datasheet of LM1127
Liqui Moly Central Hydraulic System Oil - LM1127 has apparently been replaced by

Liqui Moly Central Hydraulic System Oil 20038

Is this suitable for the 2007 F430 F1 system?

Ray
 

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Our F430 DRL Lights - Ultimate version remains the most wanted upgrade as it really updates the car and makes it more visible (increased safety). Plug & Play and very easy to install.

This is an upgrade made on a F430 from Taiwan

"Very happy with the result, and the mechanic who did the install also felt it's money well spent. Thank you."

ILUAL43 HEADLIGHT LED DRL ULTIMATE VERSION

I have these in my cart but after re-reading the product description I realized that the only way to get them to be true daytime running lights that come on when you start the car, is to purchase the additional $293 Smart DRL Lighting Controller ECU Module. That makes a total of $793. I don't need a remote control unit to modify brightness or turn them on prior to getting in the car, I just need them to come on and stay on while I'm driving without turning on the parking lights. The brightest position lights are useless unless you remember to turn them on.

Ray
 
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Yes, it's 100% identical. It's just a different reference # of the product for the USA market which is 20038 instead of 1127.

Okay, that's great. I ordered it on Amazon, enough to flush and bleed the system.

I finished the 3rd brake light, flasher, taillight install. I didn't burn down the car in the process. It looks great! That flasher will wake up a drunk!

I ordered an LED with the same base as your turn signal LEDs but ordered and received bright white instead of amber like yours. I'll install one on the side which I was unable to get to work and see if it looks awful. If not I'll install in both sides. I can always order a pair of amber ones from Amazon or SuperbrightLEDs...they are $18/pair.

Starting the Capristo brackets now.

Ray
 
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I have these in my cart but after re-reading the product description I realized that the only way to get them to be true daytime running lights that come on when you start the car, is to purchase the additional $293 Smart DRL Lighting Controller ECU Module. That makes a total of $793. I don't need a remote control unit to modify brightness or turn them on prior to getting in the car, I just need them to come on and stay on while I'm driving without turning on the parking lights. The brightest position lights are useless unless you remember to turn them on.

Ray

[/QOTE]


I just consulted with the secretary of the treasury (my wife) and we are good to go with the full DRL kit with smart ECU controller, without sacrificing the CAN-us interface for the ShiftP2+.

Life is good.

Ray
Okay, that's great. I ordered it on Amazon, enough to flush and bleed the system.

I finished the 3rd brake light, flasher, taillight install. I didn't burn down the car in the process. It looks great! That flasher will wake up a drunk!

I ordered an LED with the same base as your turn signal LEDs but ordered and received bright white instead of amber like yours. I'll install one on the side which I was unable to get to work and see if it looks awful. If not I'll install in both sides. I can always order a pair of amber ones from Amazon or SuperbrightLEDs...they are $18/pair.

Starting the Capristo brackets now.

Ray

Starting te Capristo brackets. Cats, per SteVan's advice, supported by jack stands.

244159
 
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Finished the Capristo brackets. Getting ready to re-install the diffuser. It's amazing how much weight is shed by removing the OEM parts. The equivalent weight savings using carbon fiber would be enormously expensive.

Ray
 

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Starting te Capristo brackets. Cats, per SteVan's advice, supported by jack stands.

View attachment 244159
Does anyone know what that black box-like component does? It required removal to access nuts on the OEM bracket for their removal. It is hollow, with a single internal cross-member separating the two sides internally. It is held on by four bolts. None of the completed Capristo brackets after-install photos show this part being re-installed although it can be. Does this serve some critical function or can it be left off?

Ray
 

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Managed to configure the Smart TSL ECU. The only option I felt warranted changing was the number of "comfort flashes". I changed from the default of four to six for lane changes.

I'm going to take a week off, drive the hell out of the car, then go for Stef's Smart DSL solution and the CAN-bus adapter for the Ecliptech ShiftP2+. And I'm going to replace my Smart F1 ECU basic with the advanced version. I'll keep the basic version as a spare (it has only been installed for about a month).

Then I'm done personalizing my 430. I intend to wear out the Bridgestone tires and replace them with Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tires.

#essere Ferrari
 
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Discussion Starter #971
Hi Ray, can you post a photo of this black box? This would help to understand what you mean.
Many thanks,
Stef

Does anyone know what that black box-like component does? It required removal to access nuts on the OEM bracket for their removal. It is hollow, with a single internal cross-member separating the two sides internally. It is held on by four bolts. None of the completed Capristo brackets after-install photos show this part being re-installed although it can be. Does this serve some critical function or can it be left off?

Ray
 

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Hi Ray, can you post a photo of this black box? This would help to understand what you mean.
Many thanks,
Stef
Yes, I already did. It's in the post several posts up from this one. But here it is again. If you look at the back of the stock bracket, in the center between the jack stands, you'll notice a black box held on by four bolts. I re-installed it after removing the OEM bracket that bolts to the rear of the transmission/differential. As far as I can determine, it serves no useful purpose but I reinstalled it just to be cautious

Of course, I can't see the lights when I'm driving, but my wife reports they are incredible and the back-up lights are very bright, providing a brilliant view in the rear camera.

All in all, very much worth the effort.

244162
 
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There will be a two week hiatus from installing the DRL kit (with controller), the CAN-bus interface (with Ecliptech [email protected]+), and the Advanced F1 ECU relay. I need a break.

Working on this car is akin to defusing a Russian Anti-tank mine: You have to be very careful and very deliberate. The mine can turn you into pink mist, and your problems are over, while the car can cost you many thousands of dollars if you screw up.

I used to love working on my cars, going back to when I was 16 years old. Working on the 430 is not so much fun, although getting things to work is still very satisfying.
 
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Discussion Starter #974
Hi Ray, the F430 is very easy to work on, well easier than most modern supercars. Everything is easy to access. Not so on a 458/488 for instance where you have to remove a lot more body parts like the bumpers before you can access something. Changing the taillights on these cars for instance is a big job. On the F430, most maintenance parts can be easily accessed, removing the engine bay panels is a piece of cake and once removed, most parts can be accessed directly :). Just go progressively and take photos before you remove anything. Wishing you all the best.
 

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Hi Ray, the F430 is very easy to work on, ...
That's not the problem. The problem is knowing if I damage something in the process it will cost a small fortune to replace/repair.

As I said, working on cars was always fun. Not so much the 430. Although, it does take my mind off the disaster in the White House which is good.

Ray
 
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