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An update for anyone interested.
Latest 308 paint pics.
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Nice...
Mirror like, very good job there!
Mirror like, very good job there!
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For anyone interested.........................
Attachments
It's a reflection, of the workshop, on the near side rear wingWhat on earth is picture nr 5
Great finish! Looks good.
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Thanks M8, if you are interested check out some of the other stuff we've done there are pics under the Vintage section - I think the heading is Pics of some vintage stuff.
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Finished pic.
132 hours, begun on 7th May, collected 5th June.
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132 hours, begun on 7th May, collected 5th June.
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Fantastic!! My new shop that I'm putting up will have a seperate bay that can used as a paint bay, complete with infrared heat. I can paint Jeeps but I'd be scared to spray the Ferrari. When my car needs painting I'll have to fly you over to help me.
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Cheers all, t1fosI - anything I can help with or any advice just let me know M8.
Pete, sounds like a fab idea! Painting one car is just the same as painting any other, it's all in the prep & the only real skill required is bucketloads of patience, going about it the right way and a decent eye for detail. DON'T get put off by all these a**holes that put an Fcar tax on their prices and tell you it's much more difficult on these Italian beasts!
I have a really interesting non Fcar project on the go at the moment, I'll post up some pics once it's done (probably about 6 weeks!)
Thanks, Al.
Pete, sounds like a fab idea! Painting one car is just the same as painting any other, it's all in the prep & the only real skill required is bucketloads of patience, going about it the right way and a decent eye for detail. DON'T get put off by all these a**holes that put an Fcar tax on their prices and tell you it's much more difficult on these Italian beasts!
I have a really interesting non Fcar project on the go at the moment, I'll post up some pics once it's done (probably about 6 weeks!)
Thanks, Al.
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Thanks Al... here goes!
1. How easy/difficult is it to change colour on a 308/328?
For example you mentioned in a different post that the 250 series engine bays, under arch areas etc are all in in satin black with removable cover plates. Does this also apply to the 308/328? (principally interested in the 328)
2. Would you advise using current paint technology when repainting an older car? for example using a UV/scratch resistant clear coat.
3. When you take a car to bare metal is it possible to eliminate any current rust issues that may arise and future proof against potential corrosion?
4 See PM!
thanks again!
1. How easy/difficult is it to change colour on a 308/328?
For example you mentioned in a different post that the 250 series engine bays, under arch areas etc are all in in satin black with removable cover plates. Does this also apply to the 308/328? (principally interested in the 328)
2. Would you advise using current paint technology when repainting an older car? for example using a UV/scratch resistant clear coat.
3. When you take a car to bare metal is it possible to eliminate any current rust issues that may arise and future proof against potential corrosion?
4 See PM!
thanks again!
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Great Questions. Please tell us oh Paint Guru! I've wondered that myself (question 2), should you try to find the exact same paint they used on the car in 1979 or use the more modern paints.
I know a little bit about paint, but my experience is with industrial coatings not the mile-deep Ferrari shine. When I painted my Jeep I used Ameron 235 Epoxy as a primer (which has an impact resistance rating of 65 inch/pounds) and Ameron 450HS polyurethane for the shiney top coat. Looks real good and you can't scratch it. You hit it and you can dent the metal but you won't scratch the paint. Doesn't have that mile deep Ferrari shine though.
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Hi Tif, I'll do my best to answer!!
1, Colour change on a 308 is no more difficult than a std repaint - on any good quality job the door shuts & bonnet/boot reveals would be done. The actual bay & luggage compartment innards are satin anyway. I'm not sure on the 328 as I've never done one, but I'd be very suprised if they were different, maybe others here can answer that one?
2, Absolutely! Paint technology has moved on in leaps & bounds (as has the restriction on solvent emmissions) & I think people would ignore the benefits of the latest technology at their peril! (unfortunately there is cosiderable resistance to change in the motor trade - there are a lot of old boys that swear by 30 year old materials and working practices).
The main complaint I've heard regarding modern finishes is that they look plasticky & have no depth - if finished correctly by hand blocking & machine buffing then they can look as good as any cellulose paint.
Pete - I'd be interested in knowing more about industrial coatings - are the primers' sandable and can they be overcoated with a water base & Iso clear?
The main problem if they are not workable is getting the preparation to level that can be coated - filler (bondo) is easily workable with up to 400 grade paper (drycut) but beyond that really cannot be finished further.
I think I get very much industry led - one sticks to the same basic perameters and adjusts to new products, I've found a basic system that works for me and I adapt to whatever new products I can incorporate - this doesn't necessarily make my way of doing things the right way for everyone.
I have no experience with industrial coatings as I simply haven't had the opportunity to use & evaluate them. (Also I would have to do a vehicle of mine in them - I could hardly practise on a clients car!!!!!!)
3, Yes - by cutting out affected metal & welding new sections in, or if it has not holed the metal by localised sandblasting.
Bear in mind that it's my preference to strip a car by sander - not chemicals, I've always felt that introducing chemicals at this critical stage is very dangerous - most of these strippers are highly corrosive & if you don't clean every last trace away (which is virtually impossible) then you will see a light layer of red surface rust forming within hours. I have the same feelings towards wet sanding; I will wet sand the final finish for polishing, but that is it. I accept that for many years it was the only option -but refer to point1 - technology has moved on to such a level that 3000 grade drycut paper is now available - there is no need to wet sand anything other than topcoat.
4, You have pm.
Please though guys - I can only put the way I do things across - just because somebody else doesn't use the same system/materials that I do doesn't in any way mean they are wrong. I've found that we all have a different way of doing certain things.
Hope this helps, cheers, Al.
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Hi Andrew - see above!!
I always do the door shuts & bonnet/boot reveals regardless of whether the colour is remaining or being changed, fortunately it is made so much easier with Ferrari and their love of satin black!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers, Al.
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Industrial coatings - On the ship, because of the sheer size of the project and the harsh environment and rough service, we care about ease of application and toughness. Our standard system is 2 coats of epoxy to protect the steel and then 1 coat of polyurethane to provide the gloss, UV, chemical and abrasion resistance. We use Ameron coatings from PPG. The website is http://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/
We will grind, sandblast or UHP waterblast the steel to SP10 (white steel) and apply 2 coats of the Amercoat 235 Epoxy to a DFT of 6 mils each. We use alternating colors to assure coverage, usually oxide red followed by off white or haze gray. This epoxy is surface tolerant, has excellent adhesion (even to tight rust) and of course has the impact resistance we require. This is followed by one coat of Amercoat 450H polyurethane sprayed to a DFT of 3 mils. This is the color. High gloss and UV protection.
Now I take my Jeep out rock-crawling and mud riding, etc. So when I'm out on the ship and I see the men dropping shackles and hammers on the deck and it is not damaging the paint I'm thinking "This is what I need on my Jeep." When I looked up the specs and saw it actually has an impact resistance rating I was like "Oh yeah." How many other paints have you seen a number like that attached to? Some of the other specs are the 1,000 psi adhesion rating, 2 year water immersion with no effect on the film and 1,000 hours of salt fog exposure with no effect on the film, you get the idea. Good stuff.
I found the epoxy very workable when cured. I only wet sanded it to 240 but there is no reason why it couldn't have gone smoother. The film is completely inert when cured so I'd imagine you can overcoat it with anything. I think for restoring a rare car after getting everything repaired and shaped the way it is supposed to be what better way is there of protecting the parts then coating them with epoxy? It is like encasing them in plastic and the only way you can get the coating off is by grinding or sandblasting it. The coating will last 5-10 years on an offshore drilling rig, on a car it should last forever.
Do a search on this site Al for a topic "Rebuilding the Jeep" and you'll see some photos of my work.
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