[Te430]

Hello StefVan, in the meantime i did change the eDiff Valve on my 430 also as you suggested some posts earlier in this thread where i posted the pressure charts. Before the change i checked the pressure decrease rate while the car is standing still, engine off and cold. With Ignition on it took something about 8 minutes from one pump start to the next pump start (so from about 51 bar to <40 bar). After the eDiff Valve change i saw exactly the same rate so my fear was that i have damaged the new valve.

So i disconnected the two hoses to the eDiff to see how the system behaves while eDiff is ruled out. What i can see is that the pressure is still going down within 8 minutes (without any gear shifting). Pressure accumulator is new, was changed end of last season but did not change anything, hydraulic oil was also changed to the LM last year.

Still need to check with a external powersupply how the pressure rate behaves once i manually power the valve with different currents (0.1 to 1.7A as you suggested) to see if this is behaving normal (maybe the old eDiff valve was simply bad in some pressure ranges as i lost too much pressure during driving as show in the charts from last year - see some posts before in this thread).

So the question is, is the pressure decrease rate from fully charged to <40 bar with 8 minutes without any gear shift in stand still in the normal range or is there something else wrong in my system ? If something is wrong, any idea what the issue can be and how to find it ? Would like to avoid to change the complete F1 Powerblock. I think gear actuator, clutch and the distribution block (because of hair cracks) can be ruled out since in stand still there is no actuation so the pressure is lost somewhere in the area of pump and F1 Powerblock.



What i also found is that with the Texa tool i can do all the things regarding the eDiff which is in the selection menue BUT the function to decrease the system pressure to 0 bar seems not to work most of the time. Is there any precodition to get this working ?
Tried already many things like driver door open/closed , brake pedal pressed, not pressed, handbrake activated / not activated, pump motor connected / not connected (have the Smart eMT Relais so the eDiff ECU will not recognize that it was disconnected). I think from 100 tries on several days it may work only one time an i do not know why. What i do is to select the function system pressure release,press the start button, press the activate button, press the cursor up button (display then says that the pressure decreas in "On"), wait for some seconds, switch it "Off" with the cursor down, press the Accept or the Cancel button (tried both) and go the pressure reading. Nothing changed beside the normal pressure decrease. Time between On and Off i did vary from about 5-20 seconds, nothing changes.

All is done of course with the eDiff hoses connected since i assume that the pressure relase is done by activating and deactivating the eDiff valve.
Any idea on this (since you are also using the Texa) ?



Best regards,
Bruno

 

[StefVan]

Hello Bruno,
Thank you for your interesting update. Indeed, losing 10 bar pressure in only 8 minutes with engine off isn't normal. Best would be to drive your car, unplug the E-DIFF valve connector to eliminate any pressure used by the E-DIFF (you'll be forced in rain mode but that's ok for the test drive). With the Testa connected, record a maximum data during the test drive like hydraulic pressure, gear engagements, etc. This will allow you to narrow down when exactly the pressure drops suddenly. There are many places where a leak can happen like the TOB, actuator bleed screws and gaskets, actuator internal leak, hoses, power unit check valve leak which normally makes the accumulator holding up the pressure, etc.

You're right, the option to depressurize the hydraulic system doesn't work with the Texa. I think I never succeeded to make it working. That's one of the reasons I designed the SEST Tool to allow this to be done very easily.

Stay safe and healthy,
Stef

 

[theflash32]

Stef

What is considered a good time for cycles of pump with ignition on car off without touching gear shift in a 360 and 430

Thanks in advance

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

[StefVan]

You're very welcome. A hydraulic system in perfect condition should not loose any pressure. On our test F430, pressure remains above 42bar during at least 1 week when parked With ignition on and car still, the pressure should not drop neither, or very very little. This can last several hours without needing to pump up again the pressure.

 

[theflash32]

Thanks again

I am little confused .. it seems like when I return from a stop at a friend's home etc when I open the door I hear pump go on . You are stating normal is a week with car off
What am I missing

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

[StefVan]

I agree, it can be confusing but a good hydraulic system should hold the pressure for a very long time. An easy test is to drive your F430 at cruise speed above 60km/h, no gear shifts. The pump should never prime while cruising, only when you shift again after a long time driving. If the pump still kicks in while cruising, then there is a loss of pressure. It's easy to graph this with a diag tool like the Launch or Texa. But don't worry, most F1 systems do loose more or less pressure especially the actuator where the internal seals start to wear out with time. Of course, the first cause is the hydraulic accumulator which has a maximum lifetime of about 10 years or a failing E-DIFF valve but then the pressure loss happens only when driving. Once again, loss of pressure doesn't mean that there is a visible hydraulic leak.

 

[efg2014]

The more I read about electronic problems, which I had with my F430 as well, the more I want an analog Ferrari. Being in the tech industry I know the capacitors and or other parts in any electronic part, including the ECU will wear out over time. This begs the question who will have these parts 20-30 years from now let alone know how to fix them? Very interesting thread.

 

[StefVan]

Thank you, indeed many capacitors especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors slowly degrade over time. Many specialized ICs used in the OEM ECUs aren't even available anymore as they became obsolete. We see also that more and more OEM ECUs aren't manufactured anymore like for instance the turn signal lights flasher relay ECU of the F430. That's why we try hard to redesign such ECUs using modern technology and offering new features to prolong the lifetime of our cars. In opposition to the OEM ECUs, our electronic solutions are 100% AEC-Q200/Q100/Q101 qualified which allows the longest possible lifetime.
Regarding the E-DIFF topic, we diagnosed more and more E-DIFF issues and have been discussing this a lot with several workshops. A new ECU will be on the market soon...stay tuned

 

[StefVan]

Another feedback received from an F430 owner where the Smart eMT ECU warned repeatedly that the pump was running too often. In addition to that, he had also the amber Slow Down light coming up especially when driving in the city with difficulties to engage gears. Changing the accumulator did not change the problem. Then we asked about his front tires which have been changed to 235/35 and recommended him to put back the original size 225/35. Since then, all issues where solved. This is another example among many others received where with 235/35 front tires, the E-DIFF constantly locks the rear axle making the hydraulic pressure drop so much that there isn't enough pressure available anymore for the F1 system causing gear engagement issues as a consequence.

 

[StefVan]

Antigravity batteries are a very good alternative, very expensive but worth it. Is there are reason why you didn't choose the H6-Group 48 instead of the H5- Group 47? Dimensions?

Another significant improvement we made was fitting , using new anti-gravity brand lithium battery , group 47 40 amp the engine and all systems seem to be improved by the slightly higher voltage of the lithium battery , the car, starts noticeably better and spins up faster,and runs better and charges much more quickly .
As well, it only weighs 18 Lbs ! Hence an instant 40+ Lb weight loss over a lead-acid type .
The battery has been installed for over a year now .

 

[Ray Smith]

With our new SEST Tester (Smart E-DIFF Solenoid valve Tester), bleeding the E-DIFF hydraulic system of the Ferrari F430 is now a breeze.

Read more here: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/124-smart-ferrari-ediff-tester-ecu.html

Complete training video:

I received my SEST and remembered reading a caveat from you in the install instructions to never supply the E-Diff solenoid with 12VDC. The SEST supplies safe power to the unit.

What do you make of the instructions from this gentleman? Fast forward to about the 7:19 mark to avoid all the idiocy and get to the actual work. He mentions applying 12V to the solenoid at around 11:40.

FERRARI F430 E-DIFF BLEEDING PROCEDURE (IN CALIFORNIA!)

HIT THAT SUBSCRIBE BUTTON AND JOIN THE COOLEST AUTOMOTIVE FAMILY ON YOUTUBE!! AND RING THAT BELL!!! MERCH LINK: https://teespring.com/stores/european-auto-group Follow us on Social Media for more! Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/eagsatx/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EAGSATX/...

automobilrevue.net

When he said to connect it to 12V my BS alarm went off.

Ray

 

[StefVan]

Nicely said Ray! Certainly DO NOT follow what you see in this video, the worst consequence of using directly a 12V battery would be a new differential as the internal actuator of the solenoid valve will hit so hard the clutch.
Thank you Ray

 

[Ray Smith]

Nicely said Ray! Certainly DO NOT follow what you see in this video, the worst consequence of using directly a 12V battery would be a new differential as the internal actuator of the solenoid valve will hit so hard the clutch.
Thank you Ray

Thank YOU for engineering and manufacturing the tools necessary to help protect and maintain such a gorgeous automobile. You have addressed some of the most frequent potential problems with the 430. If you ever manufacture exhaust headers that are emission-friendly under California law, please contact me immediately. I have learned an enormous amount about the 430 just from installing your products.

Ray

 

[Granucci]

Stef
We now have a 599 F1, 2008 HGTE: I assume your commentaries apply to other models as well, correct?

 

[StefVan]

Great for your 599 HGTE replacement It doesn't apply to the 599 because this model doesn't have the e-diff, I mean the electronically controlled differential by hydraulic pressure. So won't have these issues with your 599 . Although, the 599 has the F1-Trac stability & traction control system acting only on the brakes.

Stef
We now have a 599 F1, 2008 HGTE: I assume your commentaries apply to other models as well, correct?

 

[Van22]

just read your article.Very interesting and thank you! My rear tires are oem size but my front tires are 225/40 19 is it time to get new tires?

 

[StefVan]

Thank you . With 225/40 19 front tires, the diameter is also greater than the OEM size (663mm vs 647.1mm OEM) what means that these tires will have a slower rpm than stock.Not as bad as 235/35 19 tires but the E-DIFF may still be confused at certain wheel speeds and lock the rear axle. At 1000rpm, OEM the wheel speed is 120.66 km/h while with 225/40 tires the wheel speed is 124.8 km/h. Compared to the rear wheel speed, this difference at the front wheels is enough to make the E-DIFF thinking that your car is not stable.
This can be easily checked with our Smart eMT ECU - Advanced Version. If the hydraulic pump is regularly priming while cruising at different speeds without any gear changes, then it means that the E-DIFF is locking the rear axle.

 

[StefVan]

We have updated the SEST Tool user guide (available for download here: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/124-smart-ferrari-ediff-tester-ecu.html) with an important recommendation when a new E-DIFF valve must be installed (source Ferrari technical bulletin).

Before a new E-DIFF solenoid valve is installed, it is essential to break in the new valve first. Place the solenoid valve head in a container filled with new hydraulic fluid and press button A at least thirty times. The valve head must remain submerged in the hydraulic fluid at all times.

 

[Ray Smith]

We have updated the SEST Tool user guide (available for download here: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/124-smart-ferrari-ediff-tester-ecu.html) with an important recommendation when a new E-DIFF valve must be installed (source Ferrari technical bulletin).

Before a new E-DIFF solenoid valve is installed, it is essential to break in the new valve first. Place the solenoid valve head in a container filled with new hydraulic fluid and press button A at least thirty times. The valve head must remain submerged in the hydraulic fluid at all times.

Thanks, Stef.

Considering that valve costs $591 USD and is a maintenance item that's vital to know.

Received and installed CAN BUS and Ecliptech P2+. Works great!

Happy New Year.

Ray