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Hello StefVan, in the meantime i did change the eDiff Valve on my 430 also as you suggested some posts earlier in this thread where i posted the pressure charts. Before the change i checked the pressure decrease rate while the car is standing still, engine off and cold. With Ignition on it took something about 8 minutes from one pump start to the next pump start (so from about 51 bar to <40 bar). After the eDiff Valve change i saw exactly the same rate so my fear was that i have damaged the new valve.

So i disconnected the two hoses to the eDiff to see how the system behaves while eDiff is ruled out. What i can see is that the pressure is still going down within 8 minutes (without any gear shifting). Pressure accumulator is new, was changed end of last season but did not change anything, hydraulic oil was also changed to the LM last year.

Still need to check with a external powersupply how the pressure rate behaves once i manually power the valve with different currents (0.1 to 1.7A as you suggested) to see if this is behaving normal (maybe the old eDiff valve was simply bad in some pressure ranges as i lost too much pressure during driving as show in the charts from last year - see some posts before in this thread).

So the question is, is the pressure decrease rate from fully charged to <40 bar with 8 minutes without any gear shift in stand still in the normal range or is there something else wrong in my system ? If something is wrong, any idea what the issue can be and how to find it ? Would like to avoid to change the complete F1 Powerblock. I think gear actuator, clutch and the distribution block (because of hair cracks) can be ruled out since in stand still there is no actuation so the pressure is lost somewhere in the area of pump and F1 Powerblock.



What i also found is that with the Texa tool i can do all the things regarding the eDiff which is in the selection menue BUT the function to decrease the system pressure to 0 bar seems not to work most of the time. Is there any precodition to get this working ?
Tried already many things like driver door open/closed , brake pedal pressed, not pressed, handbrake activated / not activated, pump motor connected / not connected (have the Smart eMT Relais so the eDiff ECU will not recognize that it was disconnected). I think from 100 tries on several days it may work only one time an i do not know why. What i do is to select the function system pressure release,press the start button, press the activate button, press the cursor up button (display then says that the pressure decreas in "On"), wait for some seconds, switch it "Off" with the cursor down, press the Accept or the Cancel button (tried both) and go the pressure reading. Nothing changed beside the normal pressure decrease. Time between On and Off i did vary from about 5-20 seconds, nothing changes.

All is done of course with the eDiff hoses connected since i assume that the pressure relase is done by activating and deactivating the eDiff valve.
Any idea on this (since you are also using the Texa) ?



Best regards,
Bruno
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Hello Bruno,
Thank you for your interesting update. Indeed, losing 10 bar pressure in only 8 minutes with engine off isn't normal. Best would be to drive your car, unplug the E-DIFF valve connector to eliminate any pressure used by the E-DIFF (you'll be forced in rain mode but that's ok for the test drive). With the Testa connected, record a maximum data during the test drive like hydraulic pressure, gear engagements, etc. This will allow you to narrow down when exactly the pressure drops suddenly. There are many places where a leak can happen like the TOB, actuator bleed screws and gaskets, actuator internal leak, hoses, power unit check valve leak which normally makes the accumulator holding up the pressure, etc.

You're right, the option to depressurize the hydraulic system doesn't work with the Texa. I think I never succeeded to make it working. That's one of the reasons I designed the SEST Tool to allow this to be done very easily.

Stay safe and healthy,
Stef
 

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Stef

What is considered a good time for cycles of pump with ignition on car off without touching gear shift in a 360 and 430

Thanks in advance

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Discussion Starter #44
You're very welcome. A hydraulic system in perfect condition should not loose any pressure. On our test F430, pressure remains above 42bar during at least 1 week when parked ;) With ignition on and car still, the pressure should not drop neither, or very very little. This can last several hours without needing to pump up again the pressure.
 

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Thanks again

I am little confused .. it seems like when I return from a stop at a friend's home etc when I open the door I hear pump go on . You are stating normal is a week with car off
What am I missing

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Discussion Starter #46
I agree, it can be confusing but a good hydraulic system should hold the pressure for a very long time. An easy test is to drive your F430 at cruise speed above 60km/h, no gear shifts. The pump should never prime while cruising, only when you shift again after a long time driving. If the pump still kicks in while cruising, then there is a loss of pressure. It's easy to graph this with a diag tool like the Launch or Texa. But don't worry, most F1 systems do loose more or less pressure especially the actuator where the internal seals start to wear out with time. Of course, the first cause is the hydraulic accumulator which has a maximum lifetime of about 10 years or a failing E-DIFF valve but then the pressure loss happens only when driving. Once again, loss of pressure doesn't mean that there is a visible hydraulic leak.
 
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