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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
4. Check minimum and maximum tank fluid levels

4. Check minimum and maximum tank fluid levels

The minimum fluid level inside the tank is reached when the hydraulic system is fully pressurized while the maximum level is reached when the system is entirely depressurized. Temperature has pretty much no effect on these fluid levels. At maximum pressure of about 52/53 bar, the fluid should be a couple of mm above the internal tank white disk. Use the Smart eMT ECU to build up the pressure at 52/53 bar and check the minimum level inside the tank which should be right above the white disk inside the tank. Depressurize the system by applying 1A current ON/OFF pulses on the control valve as explained before. When the pressure drops below 42 bar, start checking the fluid level inside the tank. If the fluid reaches already the top of the tank while the pressure is still above 0 bar, remove the excess of fluid. With the system been totally depressurized, the level of fluid should not overflow and should be leveled right below the tank neck. If you had to remove or add fluid in the tank, redo entirely this procedure up to the point you obtain the correct minimum and maximum levels.

Last but not least, I recommended already since several years many workshops I work for to use a real hydraulic fluid like the Liqui Moly LM1127 instead of a ATF fluid. This makes a big performance difference on the entire hydraulic system: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/content/16-smart-emt-f1-relay-ecu-recommendations

Minimum fluid level at maximum pressure:
Scud Ing Swiss Max pressure fluid level.jpg

Maximum fluid level at 0 bar pressure:
Scud Ing Swiss 0 pressure fluid level.jpg
 

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Hello Stef,


thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I will order a new valve and replace it, the fluid was already changed to LM.
What is your experience with the valves, are they reliable once new ? I got a information from a 430 owner who got 3 new valves mounted at a offical F-Dealer during the same day once they found one which was working. Maybe they used the wrong (=old) torque spec. for mounting ?
Should the valve be put into hydraulik fluid for a minute before mounting to make sure there is at least a minimum lubrication during the first actuation ?


Best regards,


Bruno
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hello Bruno,
You're very welcome. It's very good you're using now LM1127.

Usually, the new E-DIFF control valves are reliable, I never had a new failing one in my hands. No doubt that if they aren't tighten correctly, the internal actuator will fail. 9NM is the absolute maximum, and even at 7NM, they won't leak or cause pressure loss. Normally, a new E-DIFF valve comes in a sealed package which is lubricated inside. So your new valve should already come completely lubricated and ready to be installed. If it's not the case, I would not accept the part.

Best wishes,
Stef
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Since the above E-DIFF posts, several workshops faced the same E-DIFF issues and asked me if I could develop a specific E-DIFF solenoid valve tester which can be easily and safely powered from a 12VDC source like a battery. After several prototypes and many tests made, the final product and firmware are now close to be released. As already many workshops are using the Smart eMT F1 Relay ECU - Advanced V3 to diagnose and maintain the F1 system, this eMT ECU goes very well together with the new E-DIFF tester tool to accomplish such maintenance tasks by setting the eMT ECU in the Maintenance or Pump Off modes. In these modes, with a simple press on the Monitoring module button, you can directly activate the pump to build up the hydraulic pressure at the desired level.

The new E-DIFF tester tool will allow to make the most important maintenance tasks without needing an expensive diagnostic tool or to be used together with a simple diagnostic tool like the Launch X431 PROS MINI just to visualize the hydraulic pressure:


  • Check hydraulic pressure drops
  • E-DIFF bleed without needing to start the engine
  • New E-DIFF valve break-in procedure
  • Fast hydraulic system depressurization
  • Expel trapped air bubbles in the E-DIFF back in the return hose towards the fluid tank
  • Check of minimum and maximum fluid tank levels
  • 10 steps progressive E-DIFF lock force checks with the corresponding hydraulic pressure drop checks

Stay tuned ;)
 

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Wow, great info. I have an 07 F430 and recently I'm getting flashing ediff, suspension and the magneto is stuck . after driving it a while it goes away. pls advise. tx
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thank you, what E-DIFF error codes do you have? How long is your pump priming?

Wow, great info. I have an 07 F430 and recently I'm getting flashing ediff, suspension and the magneto is stuck . after driving it a while it goes away. pls advise. tx
 

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Can someone confirm if this is still true. Is getting the genuine Ferrari F430 accumulator equivalent to getting the FIAT part (which can only be ordered from Europe it seems)?

The three part numbers I have seen are:

1. Part# 247346 on algarferrari.com
https://algarferrari.com/store/accumulator-34219
2. Part# 58552368 (with ?requirement for 58552368-s Union Kit) from Ricambi
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-...-and-tank/58552368-f1-accumulator-bottle.html
3. Fiat Part# 71751195 from Ebay in Europe (no USA sellers apparently)
https://tinyurl.com/t87bcxb

I am getting confused as to which is the right one to buy. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
They are all the same. See my recommendations: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/content/16-smart-emt-f1-relay-ecu-recommendations

Just take the Fiat/Alfa Romeo/Lancia pressure accumulator #0071751195-001, that's what your F430 needs, 100% same specs 0.35l/92bar. I can't count anymore how many owners I helped with this but I never heard of 1 single issue (and there is no reason why there should be one).
 

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They are all the same. See my recommendations: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/content/16-smart-emt-f1-relay-ecu-recommendations



Just take the Fiat/Alfa Romeo/Lancia pressure accumulator #0071751195-001, that's what your F430 needs, 100% same specs 0.35l/92bar. I can't count anymore how many owners I helped with this but I never heard of 1 single issue (and there is no reason why there should be one).
Iirc..the one for bmw is the same as well

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #30
SEST - Smart E-DIFF Solenoid Valve Tester ECU

Our Smart E-DIFF Solenoid Valve Tester ECU (SEST Tester) is now available for the Ferrari F430 and is already used by several specialized workshops.

This tool will greatly simplify the most important maintenance jobs of the hydraulic system without needing the factory diagnostic tool or make use of it to monitor the parameters while doing the maintenance operations.

. Check hydraulic pressure drops
. Easy E-DIFF and hydraulic system bleed without needing to start the engine
. New E-DIFF valve break-in procedure
. Fast hydraulic system depressurization
. Expel trapped air bubbles in the E-DIFF back in the return hose towards the fluid tank
. Check of minimum and maximum fluid tank levels
. 10 step progressive E-DIFF lock force checks with the corresponding hydraulic pressure drop checks
. Anti-E-DIFF error specific plug

A complete description, user guide and video are available on our website: https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/124-smart-ferrari-ediff-tester-ecu.html
 

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Discussion Starter #31

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi, your new front tires will have an overall diameter of 647mm compared to 640mm stock while the rear tires will have an overall diameter of 666mm compared to 682mm stock. These new tire sizes will change the front to rear ratio from 0.938 to 0.972.
It also means that your front tires will turn slower while the rear tires will turn much faster.
For instance at 100 km/h, compared to stock, your front tires will have a rpm of -8.936 while the rear tires will have a rpm of +19.297. I'm afraid that the E-DIFF TCU will not be happy with this and may start locking the differential at a certain level of car speed.

Question regarding tire size. I'm putting on 235/35/19 and 305/30/19. Will this still damage it?
 

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Hi, your new front tires will have an overall diameter of 647mm compared to 640mm stock while the rear tires will have an overall diameter of 666mm compared to 682mm stock. These new tire sizes will change the front to rear ratio from 0.938 to 0.972.
It also means that your front tires will turn slower while the rear tires will turn much faster.
For instance at 100 km/h, compared to stock, your front tires will have a rpm of -8.936 while the rear tires will have a rpm of +19.297. I'm afraid that the E-DIFF TCU will not be happy with this and may start locking the differential at a certain level of car speed.

Hi Stefvan....thank you for the response. What do you recommend? I see that tire setup on F430's all the time. I'm going to track it couple times a year. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You're very welcome. My recommendation is to stay with the OEM tire dimensions. If you're looking for more grip especially at the front, this can be easily done by improving the camber/toe geometric setup.

Hi Stefvan....thank you for the response. What do you recommend? I see that tire setup on F430's all the time. I'm going to track it couple times a year. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #36

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SEST works great!!!

I wanted to share my story with everybody about some issues I have been chasing on my 430 for quite some time. Stef at Scud ing Swiss and I have been emailing for months. I have the Smart eMT ECU and have had it for about a year or so. I started to get the 7 beeps. F1 pump was running too much. I also was having miss shifts every now and then. I figured I had an issue.
I started with the usual F1 pump, pump head, accumulator. Replaced all that (that helped a lot) but still had issues. Then I thought it was the EDIff valve. So looking into it more I realized I had 2 issues.
The clutch TOB was going bad and sticking and leaking a little bit. So I decided to do a new clutch and TOB over the winter (see my other thread on "430 F1 DIY Clutch job". Got all that done and things worked great..........but I still suspected an issue with the EDiff bleeding too much pressure and causing issues. (I still would get a missed shift after driving for a while.)
I used the Launch X431 tool to do everything else but it does not have any EDiff support. So.........I read about the new Scud Ing Swiss SEST tool for the EDiff. I purchased one last month and got to work.

I used it first to log the pressure with the SEST and my Launch. See attached pic . I then ran a series of tests with the SEST on my existing valve and it showed big pressure drops during full lock and the step lock feature.(See pic ) I sent this info to Stef and we decided that the valve was bad. I purchased a new valve from Ricambi (real easy to install and bleed if you use the SEST tool). Then I ran the same tests to compare to the old valve. BIG difference in the way the valve behaved. I also used the "Break in" feature on the SEST tool on the new valve. Then the EDiff bleed feature on the SEST tool and everything seems to be running great. I was able to drive about 80 miles yesterday and never got the 7 beeps!!!! I would of never been able to log the kind of data I did without the use of the Scud Ing Swiss SEST tool. This tool is very helpful for the DIY guy like myself or a shop that sees these cars a lot. Thx. Stef. GL
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Many thanks Greg for posting your feedback, happy that the SEST Tool helped you to diagnose your E-DIFF valve issues :wink4:

I wanted to share my story with everybody about some issues I have been chasing on my 430 for quite some time. Stef at Scud ing Swiss and I have been emailing for months....
 

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Discussion Starter #40
SEST TOOL - Smart E-DIFF SOLENOID VALVE TESTER

As shown in this video, the SEST Tool can also be easily used to make hydraulic pressure sensor checks and pump cycle timing tests. Pressure sensors usually don't fail but it still happens. Reminder: often misinformed, pumps (pump head) do fail and worn out over time, it's a maintenance part just as the accumulator while the pump motor alone, if not overused, should work correctly for the lifetime of the car.

https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/124-smart-ferrari-ediff-tester-ecu.html

 
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