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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The oil pressure sensor in my Dino has always had very low oil pressure readings in the 40 plus years of my ownership. After my foray chasing after the cause of the misfiring that was plaguing the Dino the past few months (which included changing out the spark plugs at least six or seven times), I discovered that the oil pressure readings are now significantly lower than before. The indicator now stays at or just below the lowest mark on the oil pressure gauge. When warming up the car today, I noticed that the indicator would drop lower than the lowest line whenever I revved the motor. Anyway, I ordered and received a new oil pressure sensor from Superformance on Friday (very fast shipping) and was about to R/R the old sensor when I noted that there is very little room to access the old sensor. It appears to me that I need to remove at least the air box on the carburetors, the air filter canister and connecting hoses to get to the sensor. As you can see from the photo of the old sensor (it's covered in lot of oil and dirt). Would I be better off also removing the Left Rear tire, remove the inner fender liner, so, I could clean up the area around the sensor? Or is this just a waste of my time?
I'm only asking because I usually would leave these kind of things for my mechanic to do, but, he isn't able to get to my car until the end of the year. So, I'm going to take on the simpler tasks just to keep my car on the road and not have it sit for several months (which will probably create more issues). I've worked around cars my whole life, so, I'm not afraid to take things apart and put them back together, however, I've stayed away from working on my Dino because of a fear of causing some unnecessary repairs that could be very costly. But, after losing eight years of being able to drive the Dino because of the accident, I'm willing to give it a try and will just live with it if I cause any major issues. I just went to Costco the other day and I love driving the Dino, but, it does bother me when I look at the oil pressure gauge and see that it's at "0" or slightly above it as I'm driving. I always keep checking the oil level in the car and it's consistently between the minimum and maximum lines on the oil dipstick.
Any and all input on this will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Yes, you need to remove the air box and obstructions to get wrenches in there if you're going in from the top.
Better yet, remove the wehhel and go in from the Driver's side rear wheel well after you remove the inner wheel panel and loosen the air filter
Even then your 2 wrenches may need to be angled upwards to gain movement.
If you have a USA car, then you are lucky because of the extension tap raising it up 2 inches, while on an EU car it will be low and difficult

The other "mystery" sender is the water temp.Definely take a pair of pliers to connector and lightly re-crimp the female connector contact tabs for good electricl contact as they get really loose over time

PS - Wow, look at the grime and oil on that sender, I wonder if the detecting orifice is clogged, but smart move to replace


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If you're going to lean over the sail panel paint then please take care not to rub or scratch it
Anytime I work around or over the paint I like to put a temporary film down to protect it just in case I rub it (always a concern) yet the film must have very light adhesive to facilitate removal.

This 8mil thick film is great for this and has light adhesive so removes very easily
 

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Where is the oil coming from? The valve cover gaskets? Try tightening each valve cover nut to ensure they have not loosened over time.
Oil drips are what kills the Dino alternator tucked below the drips

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you're going to lean over the sail panel paint then please take care not to rub or scratch it
Anytime I work around or over the paint I like to put a temporary film down to protect it just in case I rub it (always a concern) yet the film must have very light adhesive to facilitate removal.

This 8mil thick film is great for this and has light adhesive so removes very easily
Thanks for the link to the temporary protective film to protect the finish of the sail panel paint. I've been using a soft thick blanket to protect the paint as I work on the motor. I'll buy some from that seller on eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, you need to remove the air box and obstructions to get wrenches in there if you're going in from the top.
Better yet, remove the wehhel and go in from the Driver's side rear wheel well after you remove the inner wheel panel and loosen the air filter
Even then your 2 wrenches may need to be angled upwards to gain movement.
If you have a USA car, then you are lucky because of the extension tap raising it up 2 inches, while on an EU car it will be low and difficult

The other "mystery" sender is the water temp.Definely take a pair of pliers to connector and lightly re-crimp the female connector contact tabs for good electricl contact as they get really loose over time

PS - Wow, look at the grime and oil on that sender, I wonder if the detecting orifice is clogged, but smart move to replace

Thank you for the information on the items that I need to remove to gain access to the oil pressure sensor. I'm going to try to access it from the top first. However, I may also remove the L/R tire, inner fender liner, and loosening the air cleaner to see if I can clean up that side of the motor housing so I can better track exactly where all that oil and grime is coming from. Is it advisable to put anything on the threads of the new oil pressure sending unit before installing it on the motor?

I wish that my motor looked half as clean as the one in your photo. My Dino is a USA model, so, at least I have the easier to access because the extension tap does raise it up. BTW, I've always had an oil leak under the car and I've asked my mechanic to replace whatever is necessary to eliminate as much of the leaking as possible, however, it's still exists.

I had surmised that the other sending unit might be for the oil temperature. And thanks for the tip about lightly crimping the female connector. I'm also going to spray a cleaner (one specifically for electrical connectors) in case some of that oil and grime made its way into the connectors.

If this replacing of the oil pressure sending unit doesn't fix the issue, then I'll pick up a generic oil pressure gauge to test if my original gauge isn't working properly. Sometimes it becomes a process of elimination when trying to solve an issue. But then, that's part of the fun!

Thank you again for your assistance.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where is the oil coming from? The valve cover gaskets? Try tightening each valve cover nut to ensure they have not loosened over time.
Oil drips are what kills the Dino alternator tucked below the drips

That's the big mystery. That's why I plan on cleaning up this area of the motor, so that the source of the leak will be more easily identifiable. Would you happen to know what the torque settings are for the valve cover nuts? I looked through the workshop manual while hunting for details on what to remove to access the oil pressure ending unit, but, it had very little details on it. The air cleaner canister and the large hoses in and around that area really hides a lot of surprises (like all this buildup of oil and grime on the motor).

Thanks again. very helpful insights.

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check the valve cover nuts - they are notorious for loosenng after heat cycles, hence drips escape
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
check the valve cover nuts - they are notorious for loosenng after heat cycles, hence drips escape
Would you happen to know that torque settings for the valve cover nuts (not metric)? I looked through the workshop manual, but, I was unable to find them>
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Look for the really loose ones and snug them up.
I've been laid up the past week, so, I'm only now getting back to working on the Dino.
I will check the valve cover nuts for any that are loose and will snug them up. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've run into another problem during the installation of a new oil pressure sending unit into my Dino. The new sending unit has a wider threaded portion than the one that is currently on the car. When I contacted Superformance about the difference, they asked me if I had an adapter under the oil sending unit on my car. Upon a re-inspection of the area, I found that there was an adapter there. So, I removed the oil sending unit and the adapter and test fitted the new sending unit to make sure that the threading matched the threading on the new sending unit. Luckily, it did match...unfortunately, I found that there isn't enough space to fit the 24mm open end wrench to reach the sending unit. As I see it. I can only think of two options to successfully tighten the new sending unit to the engine. One is to grind down the open end section of the wrench between 1/4" to 1/2" to make it narrow enough to fit into the narrow opening. The other option would be to use a pipe wrench, however, while the area that would grip around the sending unit would be narrow enough, the area just behind it would be as thick as the open end wrench and would hinder the access to the sending unit. I included photos of the two options (24mm open end wrench and a pipe wrench).
If anyone has any ideas on how to get this sending unit installed without grinding down the open end wrench, I would appreciate their suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Perhaps a 24mm Crow's feet wrench

Attach it around the 24mm nut then bring a square drive extension down from the top to apply side torque



I'm guessing you have a WalMart on the island...
Thanks Scott,

Unfortunately for me, I had already finished getting the sending unit installed before I received the notification of your response to my inquiry. I had no idea that this set of wrenches even existed before seeing them on the link that you posted. I fixed the wrench issue by using an old school method: "If you need a tool and don't have it, you just need to make it so the job can be completed." Since I was reluctant to using an angle grinder to adjust the profile of the new 24mm open end wrench that I had just purchased, I found an old rusted 1" open end wrench in one of my toolboxes and decided to adjust it to fit the job. I ground off 1/8" off the thickness of the wrench so it would fit into the area that was needed, however, the outer shape of the wrench needed to be reduced so that the wrench could be moved enough to tighten the sending unit into the engine. I realize that the 1" open end was very slightly larger than the 24mm open end, however, that difference was acceptable for it to successfully complete this job.
The Crowfoot wrench set that you linked me to was "out of stock" online and was not available when I called my local Walmart store. However, I was able to find this set of Duratech Super Thin Open End Wrench Set, Metric, 8 Piece including 5.5, 7, 8, 9,l 10, 11, 12 ,13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27mm Slim Spanner Wrench Set with Pouch on Amazon for $28.99. This wrench set also would have worked for my task at hand.


The new Oil Pressure Gauge Sending unit is now working...YAY!!! And I got to get my hands dirty while working on my Dino. Thanks again Scott and all of the members of this forum for all the input you've given to me whenever I've encountered an issue with my car.

Sincerely,
Hawaii 5-0
 

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