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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I am replacing the ignition wires on my 308GT4. The spark plug wires are straight forward, but there is no screw holding the coil wire. What is the procedure for removing the coil wire? It doesn't seem to want to unscrew, and I didn't want to force it. Thanks for any advice.

Bruce Sharer
Raleigh, NC
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How to remove/replace coil wires in 308GT4 distributors?

Thanks Andres. I did read the tip, however, the problem is that I can't figure out how to remove the coil wire from the distributor cap. --Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How to remove/replace coil wires in 308GT4 distributors?

ANDREW - my fingers don't always hit the correct keys. --Bruce
 

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As I recall, the little carbon "button" in the middle of the cap pulls right out. There is a spring in there also that you need to remove (it falls right out, don't drop it). That should expose your screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Installing Ignition Wires Into Ferrari Distributor Caps

Pete, thanks. That what the secret is. Now if I can just figure out which one of the eight cylinders is not firing! Thanks again. --Bruce
 

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I would imagine pulling the plugs would show which one is not firing.
If the engine is running, you can pull the spark plug wires off the plugs individually, the one that doesn't change the idle speed is the one that isn't firing.
To check the wires, put an ohm meter on the wire and the reading should be 1,000 ohms per inch or less.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Installing Ignition Wires Into Ferrari Distributor Caps

Pete,
Thanks again. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow. --Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #9
308GT4 Distributor wiring, continued

Pete,
I pulled the wires as you suggested today. I started with #1 on the rear bank - engine speed died, then resumed when reconnected. Pulled #2 - no change. Pulled #3 - no change. Pulled #4 - no change. I figured that couldn't be. So, I connected my timing light to a spare battery, and put the sensor on #1 - light worked, #2 - no work, #3 - no work, #4 - no work. Tried the front bank, every one worked. Next, removed the distributor cap and checked the continuity of the Magnacor wires and new extenders that I had just installed. All four had the same reading. Pulled the plugs and checked the gap - all were set at about .033". My workshop manual says .025", so I cleaned and re-gapped them. Installed cap, plugs and wires. Fired up the car, and everythings seemed OK. Checked the plugs using the timimg light. All worked, however #2 had a bit of a miss. By the way, the plugs are new last November, NKG with less than 1000 miles on them.

Question: what is the correct gap? best plug for carbs?

Thanks for your assistance.

Bruce Sharer
Raleigh, NC
 

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Sounds like the plug gap was your problem. I am assuming you have the stock ignition with points? If so then I would keep the gap setting at .025. The stock coils are pretty weak. You could replace the stock coils with the Crane Cams PS20 coils to give you a little more fire (they will work with your points but you must re-use the existing ballast resistor).

I replaced my point-type ignition with the Crane Cams XR-3000 ignition and the PS-60 coils to get maximum spark and do away with the points and ballast resistor. I have my plugs gapped at .035 with this ignition. I forget what I put in it for plugs. I'm at work right now for 5 more days but when I get home I'll pull one out to double check.

Here's the posts from when I changed my ignition system last year, thought you might find it interesting reading:
http://www.ferrariforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
 

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I was going to add a caution about pulling plugs with poorly-insulated pliers (or fingers - even worse). This will be more important with any boosted ignition coils or electronic system, as the voltages can be huge.

You usually start jumping around, hit your head on the engine cover which knocks out the strut which then drops the whole thing on your head/arms, all while getting an invigorating 20000+V massage!! :eek:
 
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