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With the aging F430, we highly recommend to replace the 20/30A PSR7 relay. It's heavy duty relay and one of the main ignition relays used by several other relays in cascade like the cooling ventilators but also directly linked to the TCU (+50). Once this relay contacts start to corrode (and it will after more than 10 years service), it will cause a voltage drop and as a consequence will put the TCU in an total unstable status making it behaving randomly.
Typically, when this happens, the TCU will not give anymore the signal to prime the F1 hydraulic pump while it should and cause the gearbox to stay locked in a gear by lack of hydraulic pressure. If this happens, the only way to get out of this situation is to cycle the main battery switch which will reboot the TCU, repressurize the F1 system and allow you to disengage the gear.

We see more and more F430s that had this issue which is very misleading as one may think that the problem is the F1 system.

For a couple of dollars, it's really worth to replace this relay to avoid big troubles. It can be easily found behind the LHS seat where the fuse/relay boxes are located.

Follow our recommendations here: Smart eMT F1 Relay ECU - Recommendations - SIS Techno - Scud Ing Swiss

Greg, that may be your random hydraulic pump issue too ;)

View attachment 244378
Stef,

Do you have a Ferrari part number for the PSR7 relay?

Ray
 

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On the relay it has two numbers: 46520411 and 232006. A quick Google search shows this part is the same on several different Italian makes. Alfa, Fiat, Lancia. The only sellers I could find are in the UK. While the part is about $8.00 USD the shipping will probably be $50 USD.

Ricambi no joy. Algar Ferrari no joy.
 

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On the relay it has two numbers: 46520411 and 232006. A quick Google search shows this part is the same on several different Italian makes. Alfa, Fiat, Lancia. The only sellers I could find are in the UK. While the part is about $8.00 USD the shipping will probably be $50 USD.

Ricambi no joy. Algar Ferrari no joy.
The part was $5, the shipping $28 from a UK company "SARASOTA CLASSIC HANDYMAN SERVICES LLC " via a web site khomgs.com. Rather disturbing that this part is not available from a Ferrari dealer.
 

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Hi Ray, thanks for the search. Although, this is a very common micro-relay used by many different car manufacturers. You don't need specifically the original B047E/232006 referenced relay. Any universal 12V 20/30A SPST FORM C is fine. Hella for instance make them under the reference 933766111.

What counts is the layout of the terminals as shown on this picture:
View attachment 244379
View attachment 244380
View attachment 244381
Thank you, Stef!

Ordered it from Amazon. It will arrive tomorrow! Now I don't have to worry about the one from the UK ever arriving (I have my doubts).
 
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Thank you, Stef!

Ordered it from Amazon. It will arrive tomorrow! Now I don't have to worry about the one from the UK ever arriving (I have my doubts).
Just an FYI: Went to the Ferrari dealer this AM to buy the PSR7 relay. At first they claimed they never heard of the part numbers, but finally after calling Ferrari of North America, they found the part which had been misplaced. Cost? $70. Amazon charged $10.

I think I will sell the F430 and buy a 2021 C8 Z06. Should be an even up exchange money wise, but I get a new car with a 8-speed DCT and a warranty. I tried the Ferrari lifestyle and it's no fun.
 

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One of the frustrating things about these fly-by-wire cars like the 430 is that whenever you do anything to the car, even things that do not prima fascia affect the electrical system, you must disconnect the battery. The downside of that is the car "forgets", i.e. erases, all the information it has learned from prior driving sessions. This includes fuel mappings and a host of other data points. The car basically learns how you have driven the car recently and can respond more quickly to anticipated scenarios.

Obviously installing a replacement PSR7 relay is a case where disconnecting the battery is mandatory. It's astonishing to me that this perishable, but vital data is not stored in non-perishable RAM or an EPROM. This is a serious engineering shortcoming. I do not know whether this situation is carried over to successive models like the 458/488 but is is a clumsy way to handle things.
 

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One of the frustrating things about these fly-by-wire cars like the 430 is that whenever you do anything to the car, even things that do not prima fascia affect the electrical system, you must disconnect the battery. The downside of that is the car "forgets", i.e. erases, all the information it has learned from prior driving sessions. This includes fuel mappings and a host of other data points. The car basically learns how you have driven the car recently and can respond more quickly to anticipated scenarios.

Obviously installing a replacement PSR7 relay is a case where disconnecting the battery is mandatory. It's astonishing to me that this perishable, but vital data is not stored in non-perishable RAM or an EPROM. This is a serious engineering shortcoming. I do not know whether this situation is carried over to successive models like the 458/488 but is is a clumsy way to handle things.
I bought a relay tester on Amazon. It tests the relay off the car using a 12V power source (a car battery). It steps down the voltage and current for the relay initiator circuit so you don't inadvertently fry the 5V ininitator circuit. It displays a green light if the relay is working properly, a red light if the relay is bad, and a yellow light if the relay operates intermittently, i.e., it sticks or opens slow. I works with four and five blade relays.

Stef is right, these relay terminals corrode over time even inn the best atmospheric conditions. My 2007 430 probably has many old and susceptible relays.

Also bought a fuse checker which does not require pulling the fuse to check if it's blown.

Thanks again for the heads-up, Stef! That's why I love doing business with you. You do your homework!

Regards,
 
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Thank you Ray (y) Such tester can be indeed very useful.
It's certain that after more than 10 years service (on any car), many relays do not operate correctly anymore. But some relays like the PSR7 relay appear to be very critical and can cause big F1 issues.

I would recommend to replace also all the relays that are related to the cooling ventilators which are PSR5 20A (near PSR7), and in the front luggage compartment, AR1 and AR2 30A (ISO micro relays also) as well as the 2 separated standard ISO mini power relays N006.

Here's the rough logic of the relays cascade all playing an important role in the cooling system: PSR7 -> PSR5 -> AR1 and AR2 -> N006

View attachment 244386
View attachment 244387 View attachment 244388 View attachment 244389
I will be replacing all of these relays as I agree age is the enemy in this regard.

Finding aftermarket equivalents for all these relays is essential since the Somali Pirates charge exorbitant prices.

The information posted above by dschanin may prove to be quite valuable in sourcing these. I will check out that web site and try to find the equivalents for all the relays you mention.

Thanks again, and thanks to dschanin.
 

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The relay that meets all of the electrical requirements (30 Amp, 12V, resistor) and physical requirements is available from www.digikey.com. It is part number A11ASQ12VDC1.2R. The single piece price is $1.46, a "bit cheaper" than what was discussed above. And shipping is available by USPS which is only a few dollars more. I have ordered one for my F430 and I will let you know my results.
Any chance you can translate PSR5, AR1, AR2, and N006 into part numbers from www.digikey.com ?

If so, I'll buy them all.

TIA
 

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The relay that meets all of the electrical requirements (30 Amp, 12V, resistor) and physical requirements is available from www.digikey.com. It is part number A11ASQ12VDC1.2R. The single piece price is $1.46, a "bit cheaper" than what was discussed above. And shipping is available by USPS which is only a few dollars more. I have ordered one for my F430 and I will let you know my results.
If I am reading the part number code correctly, the diode version of that relay is "A11ASQ12VDC1.2D since the only difference in the two numbers is one ends in "R" for resistor, and "D" for diode.

If that's the case, wouldn't the diode version be better since it would eliminate reverse current flow?
 

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This CIT relay should do the job too, good find. There are many alternatives like Panasonic, Hella, Omron etc that will do the job.
Ray: only use relays with resistors, no diodes.
Will do ...

Aside from pulling out the PSR5, AR1, AR2, and N006 relays to find their part numbers, is there a way to translate those identifiers to aftermarket replacement relay part numbers?

For example, Hella?

Thanks.
 

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Thanks, Stef. I managed to get all six relays from Amazon remarkably cheaply. The N006 relays are 50A and the same as the F1 relay as you pointed out.

I'd love to have solid-state relays replacing the mechanical relays but at least these are new and should last quite a while.

Keep up the great work getting the word out on these potential issues.
 

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Ray
P.lease provide some links, if you can, to help others


Thanks

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
N006 x 2


PSR7, AR1 and AR2


PSR5 and PSR4 are Five pin relays, not four. I found them here


If you don't want to buy ten, AutoHuasAZ sells them individually at


Ray
 

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PSR5, PSR7, AR1, and AR2 are identical ISO micro relays. You can purchase several of them from Digikey (CIT relays) or from any other source.
Regarding PSR5 (as well as PSR4), these micro relays are actually a bit different from the others like PSR7 as they have the additional 87A terminal. They are brown 20A/10A relays but can be easily replaced by any equivalent SPDT Form C micro relay.
I'm confused. Is PSR5 a 4-pin SPST or a 5-pin SPDT?
 

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I checked again and it's definitely a 5-pin SPDT. Your car is different?
No, it's a 5-pin.

I pulled them all to replace them but none were corroded nor was there visible signs of arcing. And these are the original relays.
 

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FWIW, I just replaced the PSR7 relay as suggested and one thing became apparent, after starting, my alternator output voltage was higher than before the changeout. Previously it was 13.8 V cruising, and now it is a healthier 14.3V cruising. It May be anecdotal, but if it helps to control voltages to the ECU's as indicated by the Bus voltage, it can't be a bad thing to replace as Stef mentions.
I replaced the PSR7 as well as the AR1 and AR2, but after pulling the others and finding absolutely no signs of corrosion and/or arching I left them in. I'll keep the others onboard the car as emergency spares along with the relay pulling pliers.

And, FWIW, the Eliptech unit I installed using Stefvan's CAN-BUS interface now shows an alternator voltage of 14.3V. It was also showing less alternator output prior, somewhere in the 13V range.
 
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Thanks for the heads-up and clarification. I will, based on this logic, replace all the relays proactively. I can do the fan relays as I've had the frunk liner out before to rivet new leather straps for the toolkit and tire inflation kit. The relays I bought are Bosch and Hella units.

Ray
 
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Hi Ray, PSR5, PSR7, AR1 and AR2 are identical ISO micro relays (SPST-A).
The N006 relays are standard mini relays exactly the same was your old F1 pump relay. You can see here the pin layout Type 1 which is identical: Smart eMT Relay ECU - F1 Pump Relay
I need to check but I believe it's a 50A relay for the fans.
Regarding PSR5 (as well as PSR4), these micro relays are actually a bit different to the others like PSR7 as they have the additional 87A terminal. They are brown 20A/10A relays but can be easily replaced by any equivalent SPDT Form C micro relay. As you can see, the 30 terminal was also badly corroded on both PSR5 and PSR4 relays.

View attachment 244422


View attachment 244423
View attachment 244424
I looked and they are different.

Thanks.

Ray
 
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As an electronics engineer, i can comfortably tell you that nothing is more reliable than a mechanical relay, as long as you replace them (as noted in my discussion) after 14+ years of labor as the contacts will pit. The electronic version will never be as robust. The usual electrical transients, environmental extremes, and mechanical shock that they experience in an automotive environment are all bad for electronics. Cheap solution as noted is simply to replace the relays proactively. Simple job, cheap, and no downside potential. Great reliability improvement, and leaves the car as designed.
I followed your advice and replaced them all. I'm going to cut the old ones apart and check for pitting. Thanks for the clarification.

Ray
 
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Just a heads up that because of the supply chain disruptions the prices of all these relays has risen rather dramatically.
 
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