[bell47]

:work:
Hi first post. I am getting ready to adjust the valves & replace the timing belts on an 89 TR. Any advice about getting the engine out, and other related subject is wellcome. I have worked on a lot of other Ferraris. 308,modial,456,550, and a 355 spider. Thanks

 

[Dr. Bob]

Welcome here, I can't help you, But I believe carguy did a lot on his engine. You can see the topic about his car here http://www.ferrariforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1756&highlight=testarossa If he doesn't respond here you should PM him. Other than that I think there are some other people that could help you.

Do you have a workshop for Ferrari's?

 

[bell47]

We are a shop.

Yes we are a repair shop. We work on a lot of makes of cars. mostly top end cars, aswell as classic and vintage cars. Thanks for the info.

 

[carguy]

Hi Bell47:

Does your handle name refere to an aircraft (choppper?) of some sort?

As for TR engine removal it is quite straight forward, it just drops out the bottom of the car. If you have a shop manual the description is quite good for a Ferrari manual. But here are a few helpful hints:

1. You do not need to remove the engine bay bonnet, although it does help free up some working space. You do need to remove the little grill panel just behind the rear window though.

2. You do not need to disconnect the air conditioning compressor hoses, just unbolt the pump and tie-wire it up out of the way. It is hard to get to the bolts, but it's better than losing the charge in the system and refilling it later on.

3. When lowering the engine cradle down, watch around the tops of the shock towers for the studs to hang up...the studs are inclined and do not want to drop straight down through their holes. You may have to wiggle things around a bit. The other option is to unbolt the shocks at the bottom mount.

4. When you detach the throttle cable, run a small wire through it's pathway under the fuel distributors and stuff. This way you can pull the throttle cable back through after the engine is re-installed. This can be a pain but it's the only way I know how to do it.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. I did my service in my garage last fall, difficult to do by myself with no power tools. But it was also very very rewarding. BUT !!! The oil leak out the front main seal has returned after 4k miles....so I must pull the motor AGAIN !! Not too happy about it. While I'm at it I think I'll rebuild the water pump too. The well known phrase...."while your in there you might as well....." really applies to the front of TR motors. Do all you can up there. The rest of the motor can be worked on in the car, so no big deal. Please let me know if you have any questions. Good Luck!

 

[carguy]

On second thought, on Hint #3 I think I'm mistaken about unhooking the shocks at the bottom....it won't make any difference. Each shock has 4 nuts at the top, two 10mm and two 13mm I think. You only need to remove 3 of the 4, can't remember which. But if you look closely you'll see what I mean. Good Luck!

 

[bell47]

Thanks for the hints. I have the TR on a lift, and i am planing on lifting it off of the engine. I was wondering what frame bolts to take off last. It looks like the ones around the shock towers would be last. This way I can have the TR in the air, remove the front frame bolts, then lower into jack stands, unbolt the bolts at the shock tower to sepperate the frame. then just rase the lift. The engine should stay.

Bell47 is the helocopter that was used in the TV show MASH. The shop owner has one and flys it often.

thanks john

 

[bell47]

A/C

I have aready sucked out the freeon. but thats a minor detail.
john

 

[carguy]

I believe I would remove all the bolts, leaving these as the last ones to take outs:

The outer most ones at the front of the cradle, 2 each side.

The four rear ones at the cross frame.

I think that since you'll be supporting the car and the engine cradle together horizontally it really doesn't matter that much. If there was a chance of the cradle tipping or tilting there could be an issue. The main thing is that if something is going to be stressed or flexed upon motor/car seperation then the last bolts that remain should be the beefiest ones. The workshop manual, if I remember correctly, says to remove all bolts leaving the front outer most ones for last.

Pulling a TR motor sure isn't rocket science. Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

[bell47]

It's out

it's out. or I should say the TR is hovering over it. It really is a great setup. The tip about the throtle cable worked great thanks. Only thing that could have gone better would have been for the fuel tank not to be full. small fuel spill when I unhooked the fuel return line. I will get pic. if any one wants to see them. I have some of the shop, and for a disassembled 355.

John

 

[4kids3fish]

Well done (both of you :wink: )

 

[carguy]

Thank You 4kids3fish......working on a Ferrari can be a rewarding experience....or it can be a nightmare. My car is falling somewhere in between right now. But once the leak is fixed permanently...I'll be a happy camper again. I think that anyone with some mechanical ability and common sense can work on any Ferrari built prior to about 1991 or so. If you take notes and pictures, label everything, and keep loose nuts and bolts in containers or baggies, you'll be fine. The hard part of these cars can be in the tuning and diagnosing of electrical problems. I have difficulty in these areas....but am learning as time goes on.

Good Show bell47 for getting that big lump of aluminum out of there!

 

[senna21]

Bell47,

Did you ever post any pics of this? Or of your shop for that matter

 

[bell47]

not yet. I still use 35mm film. should to be to long. there are some in the Garge section, under the heading of "only one Ferrari", i think.