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Nice work indeed.

Share a bit more info please.

Did you lock the crankshaft with the factory tool to remove the crank pulley?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My dealer did the job. I asked them to make some pictures. But I can ask for you how they exactly did this.
 

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My dealer did the job. I asked them to make some pictures. But I can ask for you how they exactly did this.
I know how they did it.

I thought you did it and I just had a few questions.

Many thanks for the offer, though.

Is that a CS?
 

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Chaz,

4th photo down you can see the white marks on the driven cams you mentioned to me!

Looks like the waterpump connection may not have to be removed?
 

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Chaz,

4th photo down you can see the white marks on the driven cams you mentioned to me!

Looks like the water pump connection may not have to be removed?
Yes Gcalo they are the homemade marks that i suggested. Also yes the belt will go on with out moving the water pipes. If you recall i was talking about having to wrestle/work around the pipe if one was to fit protractors and adjust the timing.

Socciebon did you witness them putting the protractor on to check and adjust the timing? Or was it a straight forward belt tensioner swap.
I bet it may have just been a belt and tensioner swap alone.
Do you know mate?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Socciebon did you witness them putting the protractor on to check and adjust the timing? Or was it a straight forward belt tensioner swap.
I bet it may have just been a belt and tensioner swap alone.
Do you know mate?
No, I don't. But can you explain what exactly the difference is between those two alternatives. What is "a belt en tensioner swap"
 

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No, I don't. But can you explain what exactly the difference is between those two alternatives. What is "a belt en tensioner swap"
To be totally truthful mate, looking at the pictures they dont look like brand new tensioners. So with that observation i dont think that they would have gone to the trouble of putting on protractors. Would some one else have a look and see if you agree with my observations?
The tensioners are the two round silver looking things with the blue round seals, they should be very blue with out dirt and they should be bright silver metal on the edges because they are brand new.
Some one else please comment. I will dig out a few brand new tensioner pictures.
EDIT: Unless they have not changed the belts yet in that picture, that may be it.
 

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I think it is. But I'll ask the manager.
Yep i think it may be.....or it should be so check mate always check:;);)
Here are the two pictures that i have posted up on another thread. In the first one you will see the 360 that i changed the belts on. The picture was taken before the belt and tensioner change. Can you see the dis-colouring of both the edge and inside the bearing??
On the second picture you will see a belt and tensioner job that i did. This picture was taken AFTER the job was complete. Can you see how the edges and the inner surface is shiny and new?
So yes please keep us informed on if that was a before picture of an after shot.
 

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Only difference is Ferrari have been know to warrant OEM belts, but not those without the Ferrari marking on them. Personally, only the OEM belts are going on my car. Difference in price is not that great.
 

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Only difference is Ferrari have been know to warrant OEM belts, but not those without the Ferrari marking on them. Personally, only the OEM belts are going on my car. Difference in price is not that great.
I completely agree with Terry about this issue. No need to take such a big risk for that small amount of difference.
And I also advise only either Hill Engineering or OEM belt tightening pulleys.
 

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Hakan- You are correct on the pulleys/tensioners. There have even been some bad OEM tensioners in the system lately. Hill Engineering gets their bearings directly from SKF, the OEM manufacturer, or make them themselves, and still inspect every SKF bearing that they buy. Ricambi is a great source for HE and inspected SKF bearings.
 
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