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Its pretty simple, I cut the splined shaft off one of the distributors, then welded a single tooth trigger to it, tapped the end of the camshaft so a bolt could hold it in place. This allows you to move the trigger tooth to adjust the degrees BTDC #1 and hold the trigger in place. Then on the part of the head that the distributor bolted to I drilled a hold big enough for a VR (or Hall) sensor. I used washers to shim the sensor so you can adjust the air gap. Cut a cover to seal it up and it was done. Next time I take the cover off I will take a picture of the trigger.
 

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Jack, this is a QV so it never had any guts int he distributor, just a rotor.

What I did was mount a ford distributor pickup in the housing then make a new steel "rotor" that locked on to the flat on the cam with a set screw. Then cover to replace the distributor cap. It was a pretty simple conversion...."I'm not sure where I put the picks though..
 

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Jack, this is a QV so it never had any guts int he distributor, just a rotor.

What I did was mount a ford distributor pickup in the housing then make a new steel "rotor" that locked on to the flat on the cam with a set screw. Then cover to replace the distributor cap. It was a pretty simple conversion...."I'm not sure where I put the picks though..
That even sounds easier yet.

You know I've never had a distributor off a 4 valve......
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Cam Sync

Hi all,
Thanks much for the responses, I think this will now be much simpler than I was orginally over thinking.
I purchased the 348 pulley from a fellow lister, so I believe that takes care of crank/cam trigger inputs.
Ordered the throttle bodies from Jenvey today, so making nice progress on the logistics.
Also finished stripping out my Porsche track car, and put it on the body dolly last nite.
Just need to get it cleaned up, and can then push into a corner until winter when I will start stripping paint.

Regards
Jeff
 

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The 348 cams are probably a good option if you can find a set, they'll spin backwards in a QV/328 but the lobes are symmetric so it doesn't matter.

Way back I was thinking a 328 intake in the exhaust position then have the QV intakes welded and ground.....then I got the V12 instead and that was that for QV thoughts.
I was going to point out the counter-rotation thing, but you addressed it.

I'm looking at similar cam games with the Northstar... the factory 275HP cams are both 244 overall duration. The factory 300HP cams use the same exhausts but 266 overall on the intake side.
I'm going to be installing the factory 266 cam in the exhaust location as well over the winter to see how that does.
If that's not good enough, I'll go with the 288 regrinds for both sides.

It has 2 (yup 2 pins) and 2 sensors to produce the required 4 pulses per rev. A haltech or motec can read these directly but clearly that give pretty poor angular resolution so ignition timing can lag a bit under hard acceleration
Have you measured much variation?

A few years ago I did a BOTEC on a 4 cylinder with one-pulse-per-ignition triggering. Using a pretty aggressive acceleration rate of 5000 RPM/sec starting at 1000 RPM IIRC the max I could figure out was 0.1 degree timing error.

I thought that the 60-2 configuration was used to make it easy to run a wide variety of engines... ignitions per revolution are integral divisors of 60 for singles, twins, triples, 4's, 5's, 6's, 8's, 10's, 12's and 16's.

The extra pulses can be used to watch crankshaft speed transients and therefore misfire detection... but I didn't think the resolution was necessary for timing control.

On my 348 project, I am using 348 intake cams on the exhaust side, and then having a second set of 348 intakes welded and ground to Columbo spec .426 lift / 288 dur
I will have WEB do it. Just because they already have the specs and they have done them before.
Thanks for posting! I'll have to keep that in mind for my 348 engine.

Hi all,
I am thinking of pushing that out to October as it is in the low 90's here most every day, and I don't have A/C in the garage.

Regards
Jeff
Nice toys. Happy Birthday.
Florida humidity kills. Good luck with it. I was in Pensacola for 3 years when I was on active duty.
 

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Have you measured much variation?

A few years ago I did a BOTEC on a 4 cylinder with one-pulse-per-ignition triggering. Using a pretty aggressive acceleration rate of 5000 RPM/sec starting at 1000 RPM IIRC the max I could figure out was 0.1 degree timing error.

I thought that the 60-2 configuration was used to make it easy to run a wide variety of engines... ignitions per revolution are integral divisors of 60 for singles, twins, triples, 4's, 5's, 6's, 8's, 10's, 12's and 16's.

The extra pulses can be used to watch crankshaft speed transients and therefore misfire detection... but I didn't think the resolution was necessary for timing control.
A factory ignition system using 1 pulse per event is also most certainly NOT keeping track of crank position. It works by about knowing RPM and calculating the time from trigger event to fire....then when it sees the event an interrupt starts the timer and it sparks. They put the trigger event as close to full power timing as posible so the count time is as short as possible and hold total error to under 1 degree, sometimes well under, and it works fine....but you can't do fuel times very well with that method because you'll be at least 60 degrees from the drop dead position (intake closes) to spark and the trigger is going to end up another 10-30 degrees before that so really fuel calcs need to be 1 full cycle ahead or time and can be quite wrong by the time the fuel is delivered.

Modern systems track the crank position tooth by tooth and are capable updating fuel pulses multiple times per cycle and know better than to spray fuel after the valve is closed and think it went in to the current cycle.....they also monitor fuel in the runners and ports so mixtures don't go rich on throttle lift......a lot going on.

and as you pointed out, there are generally a handful of misfire detection calculations that get run.

The system I'm working on uses canned code from FreeScale for crank position, fuel, spark and it works by running a 720 degree angle clock, to the 1/100th degree. This code was development for and run by a couple of the F1 teams before the spec ecu rule and can update each individual cylinder a couple times per cycle even at 24000 rpm .....it's a long way from the 8 bit digiplex spark boxes on the 308s :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Good news, bad news.

Hi all,
More goodies arrived, Jenvey throttle bodies, and crank pulley.
While pulling the battery, discovered some corrosion, I had the same issue with the Porsche.
Just curious if this is common on cars that sit for extended periods.
Regards
Jeff
 

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Hi all,
More goodies arrived, Jenvey throttle bodies, and crank pulley.

Very nice! Are those manifold cast or are they billet?


While pulling the battery, discovered some corrosion, I had the same issue with the Porsche.
Just curious if this is common on cars that sit for extended periods.

I think corrosion near the battery is a pretty common problem on all cars, particularly neglected ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Manifolds

Mark,
The manifolds are machined from billet, ITBs are cast/machined.
FYI, I avoided the dreaded Visa foreign transaction fee by simply having Jenvey bill my account in $$$$$. The mistake I made with GT Engineering with the manifolds was they billed in Euro.
Live and learn.
Regards
Jeff
 

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Jeff, I am regularly down in Ocala, I have family there. Would love to see that operation!

FormulaGT makes that lovely IDF manifold, but there is some other mysterious source (I *think* in Britain somewhere) who are making 2 valve IDF manifolds as well. Still trying to track down who's making those....

What size bodies did you go with? 45mm or 48mm?
 

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Mark,
The manifolds are machined from billet, ITBs are cast/machined.
FYI, I avoided the dreaded Visa foreign transaction fee by simply having Jenvey bill my account in $$$$$. The mistake I made with GT Engineering with the manifolds was they billed in Euro.
Live and learn.
Regards
Jeff

I'm eventually going to get my hands on that fiberglass rear deck and door set they make. Really beautiful glass work they do there, and it drops some 50kg of weight.
 

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do the Jenvey ITB's have progression holes for off idle transition? They look real nice and better then the twm option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Jeff, I am regularly down in Ocala, I have family there. Would love to see that operation!

FormulaGT makes that lovely IDF manifold, but there is some other mysterious source (I *think* in Britain somewhere) who are making 2 valve IDF manifolds as well. Still trying to track down who's making those....

What size bodies did you go with? 45mm or 48mm?
Heh, stop in any time, always cold beverages available.
Went with 40mm
Jeff
 

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Thanks Scott. :(
I shall clarify...from 3.5L and up the twm's are too small. I also found them to be a PITA to tune:tongue2:
once off idle they are good. it's just that idle transition and vacuum reference that's a bugger.

don't worry, at least you can drive your car....mine's still waiting to be rebuilt...4yrs later..:wall:
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
CIS/Ignition stuff

Hi all,
Have started working on the Mondial again, getting it ready for engine out.
I am going to start removing all the Bosch CIS stuff, along with the ignition as I won't be using it again.
Anyone have a need for this stuff?
Let me know, otherwise its off to Ebay.
Regards
Jeff
 
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