Ok, let's help this guy out.....specific step-by-steps with some pics are great.
Let me start by saying you need a good location to allow for parts to be placed in nice boxes, with labels to each box.
having a camera handy with even video is VERY recommended, as I found when I assisted in my engine drop, just for giggles, it came in very very handy reference later. Like 'is that how it looked before?' stuff.
have some supplies such as:
- painters tape and electrical tape.
- box of cheap, gloves, surgical type for covering both the open holes/openings in general when removing hoses, plugs, etc. to keep dust dirt out.
- a marker that won't wear away. Label each connector plug with a number and letter to a reference list as you remove them. Example: Electrical plug, driver's side front. Put label on both sides of plug BEFORE seperating, with the SAME code on both sides so you know those codes go together: I used to say, DS-F-AA123 [Drivers Side, Front, AA123 = unique random code], then seperate the plug. Zip ties with labels on them, can be great, but use the nylon, not metal ones. Metal is bad near engines if broken and break easy.
Have plenty of shop rags, like those cheap red-throwaways to plug holes, then be covered with those cheap plastic bags/surgical-gloves.
Don't know about your area, but I can go to a place called Harbor Freight, where I can buy these cheap, but effective, magnetic trays for about $1/each. Every time I take out screws, washers, nuts, bolts I place them in the tray where they stay. Put a label on tray relating to place taken out [code again] and into a box with a cover....stored neatly nearby for later use.
Use plenty of soft towels on beauty areas/parts.
You'll find, of course, draining the fluids is manditory, but the A/C can be a big problem...can't help at the moment there.
Need a STRONG jack, and an innexpensive dolly to help move the engine when dropped onto it, about.
DO NOT FORCE screws, bolts, or bang on stuff to get it out...better to soak it with good release juice OR you more than likely haven't positioned something well enough to relieve pressure.
There were some clever items regarding locking the cams...but perhaps later.
The more you can remove in terms of engine cover etc. will help.
Keeping the wheels on can be ok.....we did on the MOndial T, but I've seen it both ways, the T has a different rear end than your model so taking the wheels off makes more sense.
You will not know all the parts needed for your model, but if you contact Ricambi, they can give you a standard list....Since you are in Europ, eurospares have similar items, but HILL engineering I believe is another source for good parts.
In my case, replacing the water pump is a good idea, not even use a rebuild, as replacement of WP requires another engine out: Bummer, so, I just replace them every time regardless, on you model you can get to it a bit easier.
Might as well refurbish all those pesky hard to get to parts, and wires, and bearings [especially] with better QUALIFIED/CERTIFIED bearings. There are too many counterfeits going about and many an owner has paid the price...spring for the extra HILL direct bearing and you will have better than OEM and sleep so soundly...
DO NOT get used belts, buy directly from qualified parts house, as you want FRESH, not sitting on shelf too long, CERTIFIED, no clones please, and good fluids. I use redline but there are many out there....more to come on that later.
- Have the appropriate workshop manuals and parts catalogues! The shop manual will lay out the specific removal procedure.
- This can't be stressed enough: have a good quality digital camera to take LOTS of photos and also a notepad (or make notes in the shop manual/parts catalogue). Do not rely on memory as to how the parts came off the car!
- It will help to have a car lift, preferably one that has arms to pick up the car (not the ramp type). I've have known people to lift the car using a jack and individual wheel ramps, but that's a bit wobbly. A lift is safer, but be sure the car is secure and stable as once the drivetrain is out, it'll be nose-heavy and could flip forward (if not placed on it properly. Use all four jack points).
- The chassis assembly is bolted up to the rest of the car via bolted flanges, so you must be sure that this assembly can be safely placed onto something else that will allow it to be moved after the car has been lifted off from it. Figure that this whole drivetrain assembly will weigh around 750 - 850 lbs.
A forum community dedicated to Ferrari owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, build specs, production numbers, modifications, classifieds, reviews, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!