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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping that someone in this forum may have a possible solution to an issue that has been affecting my Dino 246 GT. About 4 months ago, while I was driving at highway speed (beween 50 - 60 MPH), the rear end of the Dino suddenly "stepped out" and move to the left. Over time, it got worse. Sometimes the oscillation on the back end lasts longer. I noticed that this never happened at lower speeds (35 - 40 MPH). So I've mostly been driving on city streets until I my mechanic can get me into his shop.
In the meantime, while changing the oil, I noticed that the wheel weights had come off from the right rear wheel rim. I took both rear tires off and had them balanced to see if that might fix the problem. It did not...the problem was still there. The tires on my Dino are about 5 - 6 years old. My mechanic has been sick for a few months, so, the work in his shop is really backed up. He's planning on looking at my Dino in my garage to see if the bushings on the control arms may be worn and causing the instability.
The reason that I do not believe that there's an issue with the tires is that when this frst appeared, I switched the front tires to the rear and the problem remained the same. All four tires have been checked and rebalanced.
Has anyone experienced anything like this? Any and all suggestions or opinions on this matter will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to read this post. This forum has been great during my journey to get my Dino back on the road after I was rear-ended in 2011 (see post titled "Parts Source for Damaged 1972 Dino 246 GT" this was the first 7 years of my journey...and it's still not over).

Sincerely,
Hawaii 5-0
 

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That does not sound normal and could be quite dangerous.
Jack one tire off the ground so it is hanging free. Grab two sides and try moving it in all 6 axis of movement - especially pulling straight out. If something shifts quickly or clunks you need to look closer at it.

You may want to check the rear torsion bar connection, if disconnected it could have that feeling.

The rear Torsion bar is attached via a link and two different pitch M12 nuts - lower is a different pitch M12x1.5 (from memory) while upper is M12x1.25 and on my car I can see where a prior mechanic cross-threaded the lower before he discovered the difference.

The two M12 nylock nuts in this pic (back side behind bolt) are different pitch and not interchangeable. If swapped, perhaps one failed?
Automotive tire Tire Auto part Automotive wheel system Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That does not sound normal and could be quite dangerous.
Jack one tire off the ground so it is hanging free. Grab two sides and try moving it in all 6 axis of movement - especially pulling straight out. If something shifts quickly or clunks you need to look closer at it.

You may want to check the rear torsion bar connection, if disconnected it could have that feeling.

The rear Torsion bar is attached via a link and two different pitch M12 nuts - lower is a different pitch M12x1.5 (from memory) while upper is M12x1.25 and on my car I can see where a prior mechanic cross-threaded the lower before he discovered the difference.

The two M12 nylock nuts in this pic (back side behind bolt) are different pitch and not interchangeable. If swapped, perhaps one failed?


Thank you for your quick reply.
I have to apologize for my late response. My main computer had a leak in its liquid cooling system and "bricked" the computer. I'm using an older backup computer. First off, I've decided to not drive the car until this gets sorted out. I've been driving it 3 - 5 times a week even if it's just to go to the market or to Costco to pick up some things. I usually warm up the Dino to full operating temperature for the oil before driving anywhere. I've kept up this routine because it has kept the engine running smoothly and all the little annoyances like the parking brake light staying on after driving for a long time. Sitting in a garage is not good for a 51 year old car.
Instead of waiting for my mechanic to come to my home to check on the rear suspension, I'm going to both rear wheel for looseness by testing it as you described. I didn't think about the rear torsion bar possibly being loose or disconnected. I'm also going to check the bushings for wear or deterioration in the bushings.
Thank you so much for the valuable information on what to check for in the rear suspension. to be honest, I've gotten so frustrated with how long it's taking to get my car into my mechanic' shop that I seriously considered selling the Dino "as is" with full disclosure of the issues. However, I really enjoy driving this car. I know I would regret and miss it if I sold it, however, the harder it is to get things repaired may force me to part with my Dino. I've owned it for 43 years, so, it might be time for someone new to enjoy it... I'll see how I feel once these things get sorted and I'm able to drive it agian full time.
Thank you again for your assistance.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is the first sunny day that we've had in over a week, so, I jacked up the rear of the Dino and I was able to inspect the bushings and the rear torsion bar. Nothing was loose or disconnected. However, when I tested the left rear tire, I felt looseness and was able to shift the tire in various directions. I could also hear a clunking sound as I shifted the wheel. The right rear wheel was solid and had no play in it while I was trying to move it in every direction.
I left a message on my mechanic's answer machine, so, I don't expect to hear from him until Monday. Anyone have any idea of what could be wrong?
 

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Photos 12 & 13 show bare metal - looks like you found that bushing is worn out all the way and now there is play in the slop.
Make sure the fastener is tight to get it to the mechanic, those bolts are marked and a piece of originality, so don't want to loose them
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Photos 12 & 13 show bare metal - looks like you found that bushing is worn out all the way and now there is play in the slop.
Make sure the fastener is tight to get it to the mechanic, those bolts are marked and a piece of originality, so don't want to loose them
Thank you again for the input. I've sent the photos to my mechanic to see when he'll be able to work on it. The Dino will be hung up until I can get it fixed.
Are there bushings just pressed in or is some additional work need to be done when replacing them?
 

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The bushings press in and are tack welded to the suspension A-Arms. All the rubber has failed in those pics, MaseratiSource has the best part prices IMHO

Front

Front + Rear



PS - you have a lot of oil leaking from somewhere and oil can accelerate the decay of the bushings
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The bushings press in and are tack welded to the suspension A-Arms. All the rubber has failed in those pics, MaseratiSource has the best part prices IMHO

Front

Front + Rear



PS - you have a lot of oil leaking from somewhere and oil can accelerate the decay of the bushings
Thanks again Scott for the info (especially MaseratiSource as the place to get the suspension kit for the Dino). I've been asking my mechanic for the longest time about addressing the oil leak issue. I even suggested that he pull the motor and change all the seals and gaskets on the motor. I've been waiting 4 years to get the Dino back into his shop to finished fixing the A/C system and a few other items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi you are talking about a possible solution to an issue that has been affecting Dino 246 GT, for this search on google.
I don't really know what you're referring to. I've owned my Dino for over fifty years and this is the first time that this issue has ever arisen. That's why I post my problem here bceause this Ferrari Forum is filled with extremely knowledgeable owners (in this particular forum for owners of "Dino Era 206, 246" vehicles). The experts here have given me immeasureable assistance in where to find parts and services for my 246 Dino GT.
If you ever need any help with any issue that your Dino may encounter, be assured that this forum will offer you the solution or direct you to where you'll be able to find the information that you need.

Hawaii 5-0
 

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That's a Sway bar not a torsion bar. Those bushings are toast, but if the wheel flops in all directions, it may be a wheel bearing. And check the other 3 corners. And tie rods. Then throw it on the Alignment Rack. I'm a retired Mechanic, so I'm going to tell you to get a different Mechanic.
 
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