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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, now I feel the stock electric fans on my '77 308GTB are inefficient, has anyone here replaced them with more efficient aftermarket fans? If so, what ones have you used?

Also the rad on my car is coming up on 32 years old, has anyone taken it out and had it cleaned/recored, or replaced? if so, where did you get the rad? I've seen one that Nicks Forza has for sale, but really haven't seen any others.

I'm just seeing what others have done, thanks for all the help.

Scott
 

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Ultimate pedals in Florida had an ad recently in Forza but I can't remember if it was for a new AC condensor w/fans or radiators.

I had seen a post some time ago on another site of a new radiator assembly for the 308's that was great. I just don't remember where I saw it!
 

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Scott, if your car uses the Lucas round-case motors, they are still available and at very reasonable prices. The Lucas motors provide more than enough cooling capability and even my old motors kept my car cool (it has never overheated).

I just replaced mine recently and purchased a pair, including brackets from this American, Jaguar supplier (as used on the E-Type. These fan motors were also used on many other Ferraris and Lamborghinis too). Scroll down the page, about half way:

http://www.xks.com/jaguar/newAndHot/eType.aspx

When I received them, I gave both the motors and the brackets a couple of coats of semi-matt black paint (chassis black). It'll protect them for many years to come (especially the brackets as they are supplied as plain steel).

As for the rad, I had mine re-cored recently too by a local, long-established and highly regarded rad shop. I haven't run the car yet, but from their previous work I've dealt with where I work, they did a top-notch job. They couldn't repair the leaks I had as the core was just too old and would open more leaks as they applied heat from brazing, thus they just removed the tanks and had a new core made up.
 

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I have SPAL fans on my 308 GTBi. They were touted as an "upgrade", but I'm not impressed with them. They draw a lot of current, and they aren't any more effective than the stock fans. Maybe they do move more air -- I don't know -- but I have two friends with black 2-valve injected 308s like mine, and our cars all behave about the same in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day.
 

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I have SPAL fans on my 308 GTBi. They were touted as an "upgrade", but I'm not impressed with them. They draw a lot of current, and they aren't any more effective than the stock fans. Maybe they do move more air -- I don't know -- but I have two friends with black 2-valve injected 308s like mine, and our cars all behave about the same in stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day.
Thats strange because i had a 17in Spal fan very easley managing a 5.2 ltr V8 with TO4B Twin Turbos. Being that your 308 will now be 30 years old, are your radiators in good shape? Like i said Ferrari use them now on all there range, so that tells you some thing.
 

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Someone does very good fans and replacement radiators for the 308 and I'll find that info.

A few folks raved about them as stopping hot weather low speed overheating issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone for your responses, I appreciate it. I'm a GM partsman, so I have sourced some fans from a couple of our aftermarket suppliers, but I just need to verify measurements. Plus I wanted to see what others have done.

I took the front bumper off to replace the bumper shocks with brackets that pull the bumper in more (euro look), and thought while I had it off that I would look at replacing the fans as the car does warm up easily during city driving.

If I go ahead and replace them, I will let you know what I use.

Thanks again, Scott
 

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Isn't part of this cooling issue the radiators themselves?

I think this has been an issue with the early 456's as well.

I know I read somewhere that someone had found great replacement radiators for the 308's but I can't seem to retrieve that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Isn't part of this cooling issue the radiators themselves?

I think this has been an issue with the early 456's as well.

I know I read somewhere that someone had found great replacement radiators for the 308's but I can't seem to retrieve that info.
Do you remember if it was on here or Fchat?

Thanks...Scott
 

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Isn't part of this cooling issue the radiators themselves?

I think this has been an issue with the early 456's as well.

I know I read somewhere that someone had found great replacement radiators for the 308's but I can't seem to retrieve that info.
The 308's cooling system, including the rad, is more than satisfactory to keep the engine cool.

Possibilities for overheating:

-Calcium-like deposit build-up in the core of the rad. Due to lack of system flushing and/or using tap water with the antifreeze (always use distilled water!).

-Cavitation of the waterpump. Due to an excessive gap(s) between the pump impeller and it's recess in the engine block and/or waterpump body.

-Blocked cooling passages. The intake manifolds have a cooling jacket between them and the cylinder head and the extremities of these passageways can get calcium-like deposits to build-up in these areas, causing hot-spots.

-Improper system pressure. You need some pressure to keep air bubbles from developing along the cylinder-liner walls and the tops of the combustion chambers in the cylinder heads. Again, hot-spots will occur in these areas. Weak rad caps, leaking waterpump seals/hoses/heater system, or improper bleeding can cause these air bubbles to form.

In respect to the 456, all I heard/knew was that they had problems with the silicone hoses they used.

As for custom rads, I had this website bookmarked as I believe it was once mentioned (on F'Chat) that they did a custom rad for someone's 308 (but this was many years ago, so whether they could still do it...?):

http://www.alumrad.com/
 

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My car currently has 74k miles.

In 1995 at 49k miles, Michael Sheehan (european auto service) completely rebuilt the engine from the bare, dipped block. No deposits. All of the hoses on the car were replaced at the time. They also completely rebuilt the radiator. I have photographs of all of this, close to 100 of them.

I have every receipt for service for the car since then, and the coolant has been flushed and replaced numerous times by Ferrari specialists (one in North Carolina, and the other in Cincinnati -- the gent in Cinci is a close friend). I know it has had phosphate-free coolant since 2000 in Cincinnati; I seriously doubt the Ferrari specialist in NC would have put the wrong stuff in.

When I remove the expansion tank cap and wipe my finger around the inside, I don't feel any deposits. The most I have ever been able to reveal with a light has shown clean insides. I have installed a modern, higher pressure expansion tank cap to see if it changed anything -- it didn't.

My 308 does not overheat. Never did. I've been in a few traffic jams in 90+F degree weather, and it was fine. The owner in North Carolina had no issues on the Ferrari Club track days he took the car to. I am quite confident that my 308's cooling system is working properly. I passed on a bunch of typically neglected 308s in the 2-3 years I was looking and bought one that had $140k USD lavished on it in the past 20k miles by fastidious owners at experienced specialists. I was familiar with this car for about two years before I bought it. And when I did buy it, I spent about eight hours inspecting and test driving it (I have been servicing sports cars part time for years).

As I said, my 308 does not overheat. Never did. I've been in a few traffic jams in 90+F degree weather, and it was fine. . . But so have two of my friends (one is the shop owner) with black 2-valve injected 308s. Their cooling systems are well-maintained, too. So we are talking about three black 2Vi 308s that don't overheat in stop-and-go traffic jams in 90+F weather. As I said before, my car has SPAL fans. Again, I'm not impressed with them. Yes, they work -- indeed, they do the job. Like the two stock 308s, mine doesn't overheat. Maybe they do move more air; I don't know. Maybe they move more air and that makes a difference for people with 30-year-old radiators and deposits in their engine blocks. But my belief is that the stock cooling system is adequate (remember, 308s never had a reputation for overheating in the States), and the particular model of SPAL fans installed on my car make don't really make a difference if your coolant is flowing freely. They are adequate, just like the original Lucas fans, but I don't see a reason to switch to them, as the stock system works fine.


You're right, chaz -- it is hard work around here! I have to write a big long post to defend an informed comment I made! As I was writing my earlier post in the thread, I said to myself that someone would probably chime in and question the rest of my cooling system. The most tiring thing to me about web forums is having to qualify what I write because someone who doesn't know me thinks I must be a total noob. :wall:

:smiley:
 

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My GT4 had an engine rebuild last year. all the water galleries were in good condition. i had the radiator core redone as it had a small leak and installed a new pressure cap.

i have since driven the car in 40d celcius (must be close to 100d F) with the air conditioning on through the hills and through heavy traffic and it never missed a beat or ran hot. it has the standard fans.
 

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Ok Aircon

This is good to know.

Keeps my interest up for a 308 GT4.

Did you change out that tranny oil?
 

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Dude

What are you waiting for!

Come on. Shift gears and get it done.

Have Pap do it.

believe it or not, i'm still not sure which one to use.

i was going to use the NS, but the redline website and the local supplier don't recommend it. just the 75W90

so, i'm as confused as before.
 

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Going from memory:

The synchros need to grab, but the diff needs friction modifier so it doesn't make noise. The best thing to do is start with the regular Red Line 75W90, see how it drives, and if the diff makes noise, add a little bit of friction modifier that they sell separately (exactly the same as buying a bottle of NS). If you have too much of the friction modifier, the gear changes get notchy. Only add some if your diff groans or clunks.

Something like that. It's been a while.
 
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