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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
LOL ! Thanks....when doing the major service last fall I decided to detail the engine and the engine bay. Lots of hours and dollars spent, but the results are worth it. I stripped the engine down to the bare block and heads, and did a nuts and bolts "restification". It was more work than I planned on doing, but the results are worth it. I also installed new fuel injectors, refurbished the fuel distributors and fuel lines, and also the pressure regulators and associated hardware. I also used all new nuts and bolts...it was quite a challenge to find all the odds and ends. Unfortunately lots of work is not visible now that the engine is back in the car. But what ya gonna do....not drive it? No way...

Here's the motor just prior to installing back into the car.
 

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:eek: :eek: Absolutely beautiful engine detail work you performed there. Looks great and I think you're right that the results of your work paid off. Looks stunning. As Dr. Bob said, I'd eat dinner off of that! :lol:
 

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that motor

I have to compliment you in every way. To do that quality of work and still drive the car makes you one of the very few who can and do. My hat off to you
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I am truly honered by your comments! I've always been a fanatical detail nut. The engine bay is nicer than the rest of the car now, so more work to do on the paint and interior to try and bring them up to standard. My car was a neglected one when I got it, so I knew I was in for a lot of work. I've converted the motorized seat belts to standard ones. rewired to console and dash. Recovered part of the dash leather that had shrunk and torn. Restored the wheels to better than new. The body has a few small dents and quite a few paint chips on the nose, so I'm not afraid to drive it. If the car were really nice, I would be more conservative with it. As it is now I can take it out and beat the heck out of it without worry. I am currenly making my own designed exhaust system that will be 70 pounds lighter than stock, and should sound good too. It is all stainless and polished. When I complete my system, I will take some pics and maybe a sound byte. I have had some interest from others who would like a system, but am waiting till I complete mine and "sort it out" first. Then we will see about making a set for others. It's not cheap, but will be less than half the cost of a Tubi or similar system. We'll see.
 

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Seat belt upgrade

What was involved in converting the auto track seat belts to the more conventional retracting reel, which is presumably what you have done?

When you did your engine rebuild - did you find the available documentation adequate for specifications, parts, fit etc?

Thanks for these insights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hi Vlamgat: I didn't "rebuild" the engine's internals, but simply removed all the bolt on stuff. I did not sperate the heads from the block. As for available information, I found that my shop manual had some issues with conflicting information. Through the various Ferrari messege boards like this one, I was able to fill in the gaps and re-assemble everything.

The seat belts were a real pain! I tried to get the Euro version parts but had no luck. So I ended up getting a generic seat belt set with retractors and fitting it to the existing interior panels. The mouse track is still in place because it cannot be removed unless you have the proper interior pieces to "fill in the gaps". I mounted the retractors down at the bottom of the door sills where the originals were for the lap belts. Only with the new seat belts, the shoulder belt is also attached. The belt is now pulled up from the door sill bottom, and the shoulder strap length adjusted as need to fit comfortably. It's not a perfect fix, but I like it better than the old system. I had to make a couple of brackets to anchor the shoulder belt to the B-Pillar. The total investment was something like $250 or so, but lots of fitting and puttering around to get everything to work. Ferrari is now fixing the old system on a Recall with a new one, but it is still the darn motorized units. I've been debating on having a dealer reinstall the new system....but would prefere what I have.
 

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carguy said:
I am truly honered by your comments! I've always been a fanatical detail nut. The engine bay is nicer than the rest of the car now, so more work to do on the paint and interior to try and bring them up to standard. My car was a neglected one when I got it, so I knew I was in for a lot of work. I've converted the motorized seat belts to standard ones. rewired to console and dash. Recovered part of the dash leather that had shrunk and torn. Restored the wheels to better than new. The body has a few small dents and quite a few paint chips on the nose, so I'm not afraid to drive it. If the car were really nice, I would be more conservative with it. As it is now I can take it out and beat the heck out of it without worry. I am currenly making my own designed exhaust system that will be 70 pounds lighter than stock, and should sound good too. It is all stainless and polished. When I complete my system, I will take some pics and maybe a sound byte. I have had some interest from others who would like a system, but am waiting till I complete mine and "sort it out" first. Then we will see about making a set for others. It's not cheap, but will be less than half the cost of a Tubi or similar system. We'll see.
OK I think I'm going to up your "spectator" status to "TR God"
 

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the stuff u did to ur engine...i'm amazed. It looks brand spankin' new mate. Is there a change in performance? Or is it just aesthethics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
adlinyusman: The engine never ran very well prior to the service. The problem was mostly the plug wires and caps/rotors. I made new plug wires, but re-used the original sheathing and boots. I simply bought some good 7mm wire in bulk, and one by one remade each wire. If you do this, you MUST test the wires with an ohm meter to verify your connections. And when installing the new wires into the caps....you MUST check again with an ohm meter...I had to refit 5 of the 12 wires to get a proper connection !! It was time consuming, but the results are worth it. My total investment was something like $75 for everything. The dist. caps were nasty inside so I carefully washed them out and cleaned the terminals. The right side cap's center carbon button was about "disolved" away, so I went through a local parts store's supply of caps until I found a button that was very close, and filed it to make it fit. I also had to make new springs for the buttons, used the springs from a couple of old ink pens. After all was done, the engine ran smoother than ever! I was very happy. I still have to adjust the fuel mixture and idle yet to get it perfect. Gotta borrow some special tools for that job. I like to think my car runs great....but I'm sure it runs as Ferrari originally intended, no better.

Thank You for the compliments! You guys are just too nice!
 

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carguy said:
As for available information, I found that my shop manual had some issues with conflicting information. Through the various Ferrari messege boards like this one, I was able to fill in the gaps and re-assemble everything.
Agreed. I have found that when I work on my car the parts manual is of more value than the service manual. And input from others who have already been down the same road before.
 
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