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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I see, said the blind man. Not much on that one in the SA WSM.
 

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What is the consensus of opinion regarding the purpose of the little ones?

There must be a sensor that shows an out of spec weight issue and disengages the clutch mechanism and drops the roof rather than damage the drive train.

Does the little one work in conjunction with part # 27?

Where is the Italian mad scientist who designed this to chime in on this one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Cannot tell. Let me see if there is anything more in the WSM on function.
 

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Thanks 575Superamerica, that picture is very helpful.

It looks like your picture is showing item #27 in my schematic (does everyone agree). If this is the case then there is only one little gas strut per side.

As for your question on possible damage to the drive train. It is my understanding that the drive is transferred through a magnetic clutch. If this is the case then there is no physical contact between the motor and the roof drive. As such there would be no issues with damage. If the roof is to heavy (gas struts not working, hits something etc) the magnetic clutch would slip.

Having said all that it may be completely different. i am only going with the fact that i read it was a magnetic drive in the manual.

Teddy
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Teddy- I think these are different from #27, but I have never heard of anyone changing them yet.
 

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The strut in my picture is not item # 27. There is another mounting point on the arm for part # 27


As I understand, it ...

The elecrtomagnetic clutch is disengaged when the roof is not in operation so the roof can move manually and move freely when the truck is opened.

While the roof is in operation, if the struts are not working properly, when the roof is lowering onto the lid, the weight of the roof will put too much strain on the motors etc. That is why there are sensors to disengage the electromagnetic clutch.

Taz, the reason why you haven't heard of anyone changing out the little ones is because they cost $ 18,000 for the pair (and by the way Ferrari thows in the entire carrier for free)

They are not sold separately
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Affirmative, but they can be rebuilt and I have not heard of anyone doing that.
 

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So the real question is whether part #27 assists the movement in any way, or is all the assistance given by the small struts in your picture.

I am kind of hoping as part #27 is about 15 pounds sterling (each), while the small ones are apparently $18000! oooch!

Teddy
 

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So is there a common problem with the 575 SA roof mechanism? Whenever I spot a nice one on the market I start thinking its one car I would trade the 575M for because it does the whole V12 GT thing, most are fairly highly spec'ed and it has the cool opening roof.

Cheers
Michael
 

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No There is not a common problem with the roof..................There are many!!

1) Roof glass delamination and spotting uneven of the electro chroomatic glass (corrected with new ecu??)

2) Too may sensors to all agree and be in a happy place.

3) Struts weaken over time and in the heat causes roof to flop down and potentially break $ 26K of roof glass

4) Can't bypass mechanism and use roof manually unless you like an alarm sounding continuosly

I was told to stay away before I bought the car for these reasons.

But I did it any way because it's a 575 with a flip glass roof . I would suggest it to anyone who has the patience to deal with the issues.

No regrets. Drive it and enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Michael- Nice thing about the Superamerica, too, is that 30-40% were HGTC. The engine was also hot-rodded (shaved block, wider valve seat angle, advanced cam timing) for better performance and the car has all the evolutionary improvements made on the 575M. The base SA has the faster (180 ms) shifting of the HGTC 575M, too, and the updated algorithms for the HGTC and the 612. It also has the 612 F1A console control for 1st and reverse. Plus standard CF for the instrument panel, radio surround, and roof control panel. The 612 came before the SA, so inherited much of the software updates developed for the 612.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Daniel- You should consider selling the SA WSM, too. I am almost positive you have a copy.

That looks like #27. The other one mentioned appears to be much more stout.
 

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No There is not a common problem with the roof..................There are many!!

1) Roof glass delamination and spotting uneven of the electro chroomatic glass (corrected with new ecu??)

<Paul> Had mine for over 5 years and 10,500Km. Roof ECU changed way back when first recalled. No delamination, but never drive with top closed (except when caught in rain) so chassis flex does not put torsion on roof.

2) Too may sensors to all agree and be in a happy place.

<Paul> Nothing a battery on off recycle cant fix!

3) Struts weaken over time and in the heat causes roof to flop down and potentially break $ 26K of roof glass.

<Paul> I reach back and privide some support by holding the curved section as the roof folds back. I also had the struts #27 replaced when the trunk with roof open would not hold up with the long trunk struts.

4) Can't bypass mechanism and use roof manually unless you like an alarm sounding continuosly

<Paul> Actually you can. With engine off you can fold the roof back manually as the clutch is disengaged (I do this all the time when cleaning the car). You can also use a hex key to rotate the lugs to hold the roof down (under trunk is a small cap to remove to get to the hex screw). If (and not always), the electronics detect the roof in wrong position when starting engine after manual opening, a battery on-off cycle fixes it.

I was told to stay away before I bought the car for these reasons.

But I did it any way because it's a 575 with a flip glass roof . I would suggest it to anyone who has the patience to deal with the issues.

No regrets. Drive it and enjoy.
<Paul> AGREED, AGREED, AGREED
 

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<Paul> Actually you can. With engine off you can fold the roof back manually as the clutch is disengaged (I do this all the time when cleaning the car). You can also use a hex key to rotate the lugs to hold the roof down (under trunk is a small cap to remove to get to the hex screw). If (and not always), the electronics detect the roof in wrong position when starting engine after manual opening, a battery on-off cycle fixes it.

I have done all of that and even after a battery reset I still get the alarm

Maybe yours has another problem that is actually to your benefit

The Ferrari Master Technition told me NEVER to do a battery disconnect because all the ecu s loose their learned programming and you have to go thru a whole process (described in this forum or elsewhere) to get the ecu s back to a base state,

Could you imagine having an Italiam girlfriend that looks this hot and has the equivilant of 540 horsepower. Thrilling ride - but much worse attitide and much more expensive in upkeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
After a battery disconnect, all that is necessary is to cycle the ignition to on, back to off, and then on for 30 seconds each, turn off all accessories, start, and let her idle for 10 minutes with no inputs. Should be fine after that. You can turn off all the accessories before starting the procedure (A/C, radio, etc) or before starting.
 
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