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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I pulled the motor out of my 308 last week to finally do an inspection and rebuild.

A couple of questions I have, hopefully someone can answer.

My Fcar mech. told me that I need to replace all of the following:

1. Pistons & liners
2. all main and rod bearings
3. all valves, guides, seals, and springs
4. have the block line bored.

My question to you is that he doesn't know the condition of my motor except what I have told him in the past, so why do you need to replace all of the above?
Sure, if it's not your $$ why not tell someone to replace everything?

I'm not saying it doesn't need those things, but shouldn't it be inspected and tolerences measured before just replacing everything?

The reason for pulling it is that it was starting to smoke upon acceleration. It had been smoking only on re-acc. after going down a hill (valve seals?)

Also it was leaking oil quite a bit as well. Also starting to burn oil.
The wierd thing about all this is when I pulled the plugs out they were a nice light brown color even though upon acceleration their would be a big blue cloud following me.

As far as I know the motor has never been touched ( I figured this out when dis-lodging the heads). It had 64000 miles on the car when I bought it and have put over 5000 miles on it myself.

What should I do? My mech. told me it would cost me almost $10000 if I rebuilt it myself (putting it together and back in the car after machine work). Does this sound right?

Can't the cylinders be honed to a 1st or second oversize?

All new valves?

Any response would surely help


· Registered
3 Posts
If your going to rebuild your engine to factory specs, then yes, replace the pistons and liners. If your going to reuse the connecting rods, I would replace the studs and have the connecting rods resized too. The crankshaft line hone is a must as is replacing all of the bearings. I use coated engine bearings, but that is my preference. All of this should be done by a pro to ensure exacting tolerences. My $.02

· Registered
82 Posts
since you already have the motor appart. you should order arias forged pistons. they come with rings and wrist pins along with the hardware needed to secure the pins in place. i would advise you to buy aftermarket rods. i recomend CROWERODS. get oversized valves. put it all together.

then when you have it on your car have someone with a cnc laser cutting machine, cut you two exhaust manifold flanges out of stainless steel. then buy one inch stainless pre bent 90 degree pipes. whip out the chop box and start making that manifold. once your done with the exhaust manifolds. you gotta go back to the guy with the cnc laser cutting table and cut you this time some four bolt flanges that bolt up to the turbo manifold for the 4g63 mitsu design. have your trusted local tig welder weld up the all the pipes to and mate them to their coresponding flanges.

having the manifolds finalized you now go to forced and buy two fp3065 turbos. they are dual ball bearing gt35 center sections mated with a custom stainless steel exhaust turbine housing. < good turbos. they will each one be able to make 450 horsepower at 25 pounds of boost.

now comes the intercooler piping and the intercoolers. pick out a good position for the intercoolers. chose a pair of intercooler cores that have an area of 588 inches. buy them from spearco. they are of a block and plate design i believe.< good intercoolers. then buy small plates of 3/32 inch thick aluminum plates to make the end tanks. as for the piping buy a couple of aluminum 2.5 i.d. inch pre bends 90's and 45's. then buy the same amount of aluminum 90's and 45's made out of 3 inch i.d. i hope you havnt put away your trusty chop box yet. because you will need it for your intercooler piping.

here comes the intake manifold modifications. i dont know if you have two throttle bodies or one but chances are that there are 2 throttle bodies. replace them with three inch throttle bodies. < good thing to do is good for at least 30 horses on each throttle body on a turbocharged motor. it wont put down the power if it doesnt have the 3" aluminum intercooler outlet pipes.

now you wil have to move all your vacume lines from the intake manifold to the intake on your turbo. exept for the vacume hose that goes to the brake master cylinder. you will need to purchase two 36 mm tial wastegates for each turbo. then two tial blow off valves to release all the mechanical adrenaline of a turbocharged Ferrari motor.

and for a boost controller. THERES NOTHING BETTER THAN THE HKS EVC.

The fuel system. buy a set of 8 860 cc injectors. along with a high flow 700 lph fuel pump. throw some bf,godridge stainless steel braided lines from your sumpped tank to your fuel rails and then use two sx fuel raising rate fuel presure regulators.

this is where it gets a little tricky. you have to buy Hall-techs new E-11 engine management computer for your ferrari. also buy the three bar map sensor. < you'll need it to be able to boost all the way to 30 pounds.

you pay me 2,000 dollars to give your car a full turbo tune ;). HAHAHAHA

and then off you go 30,000 dollars later in your 900 wheel horsepower Ferrari.

(This post was a joke do not take it seriously, for there is alot more to turbocharging a vehicle)
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