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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our engine hoist and stand should be arriving next week, so we'll soon be ready to pull the motor out of the 308. I figure someone on here must have done this before, is there an established process for everything that must be removed or disconnected in order to remove the engine?
I mean besides the obvious fuel & coolant lines, motor mounts, etc.

Which would be the best bet, to disconnect the transmission or to pull the engine and tranny out as a unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Partially. I removed all the retaining nuts for the oil pan, but this only allowed it to drop about 4 inches before hanging up on what I think is the geatshift linkage, which passes through the oil sump. From my research I've learned that the trick seems to be to remove the dipstick tube and the oil temp. sending unit, that allows you to move the oil pan cover a little more and get the right angle to remove it completely. What I've had trouble finding out is the exact sizes of the tube and sending unit. I'm pretty sure the tube is 27mm. Once we find out the size of the sensor we've just got to get the appropriate wrenches, since the biggest I have is 18mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: Last night, after trying to get at the dipstick tube retaining nut with a big 27mm wrench, and still not being able to get a grip on it, we decided to quit wasting our time trying to get the pan off with the motor still in the car and just start getting ready for the engine pull. The hoist has arrived and the stand will arrive shortly.
Next steps are:
-to label all wires, hoses, etc. that will be disconnected
- Drain engine coolant (anybody know how much it takes so I know how much to expect to come out?)
- remove airbox, airflow meter, coolant reservoir, and that thing next to the airbox that looks like a distributor cap but obviously handles fuel distribution in some manner. Does anyone know what that thing is called and exactly how it works? It seems like the actual fuel injection happens there and the fuel lines run from there to the injection ports? I've never seen a system like that before.
As for the airbox, of course removing the top half was no problem, but how do you detach the bottom half from the airflow meter? Also, is there an airflow meter upgrade for the 308 GTSi? I see that it uses a "flap-" or "trap-door"-type airflow meter, which is pretty crappy if you ask me? Is there any way to switch it to a hot wire-type MAF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info. That's funny, last night I was saying that thing was probably called the fuel distribution unit or something like that. I guess I was right on. So, mechanical fuel injection. That's something I've never dealt with before. This project just gets more and more interesting.
This particular 308 has already had the electronic ignition bank installed. We'l just leave the MAF alone I imagine.
As for the tiny steel fuel lines running from the distribution unit to the injectors, if we decide that some of all of those need to be replaced, is their anything special about them? Or will we be able to just locate some steel line of the correct diameter and do the appropriate bending?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another question. I can imagine the kind of fuel pressure we're dealing with here, despite the fact that the car has not been run in about eight months. Normally before working on a fuel injection system I would depressurize it by disconnecting the fuel pump relay and running the engine until it died, then cranking it over a few times. But in this case starting the engine is impossible. So, we are probably going to just have to carefully crack open some part of the fuel system and deal with the pressure. So, does anyone have a suggestion as to what point in the system would be the smartest and safest to open up first? Preferably a location where any fuel spray will be roughly in only one direction, and we can direct the spray into a container?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great advice, Spasso, thanks very much. We actually have a load leveler for the engine hoist, so we'll have two hooks to work with when that time comes. The straps sound like a great idea, do they market them for this specific purpose?

I sort of figured after eight months there wouldn't be much fuel pressure left, but you can't be too careful.
 
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