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1978 308 GTS, #26581, Spasso

5K views 31 replies 12 participants last post by  Enzo_Ferrari 
#1 ·
My old 308.
 

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#7 ·
Bazil said:
Spasso said:
My old 308.
Do you mean it's old, or that you don't have it anymore?

Looks really nice in yellow - although I think the 308 would look good in just about any colour!!
Meaning it's old, 25 years old. I still have it.

DJ
 
#8 ·
Stradale said:
Thanks for the tips, Spasso. I've copied them for my reference. Unfortunately I may nto be able to get the chemical/products that you use, but I'll search for them.
I don't know where you are located but Simple Green is found in hardware stores and do-it-yourself stores like Home Depot. The aluminum brightner should be fairly common in auto parts stores. Just look for the key ingredients. Don't use it on polished aluminum.

I have also been told NOT to use orange based cleaner on aluminum as it causes crystalization in the surface of the alumionum leading to stress risers.

Hope this helps.

DJ
 
#9 ·
Nice to see you here DJ!

To the others on the board, please welcome this friend of mine. He is an active member of the Northwest Region of the FCA and we often meet up at our club's events. His 308 is gorgeous. He we are together at an event hosted by one of the club's I belong to:
 

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#12 ·
adlinyusman said:
yellow looks good. Is it a factory colour or did you get it painted yourself?
The car was repainted in the 1980's due to bad primer from the factory, (so I'm told) to Shell racing Yellow, a rather heavy yellow with orange in it. It was then repainted again (when unknown) to the current lighter canary color you see now.

The color looks darker than it really is in the first pictures I posted because of the dark and gloomy day they were taken. On a sunny day the color hurts my eyes.

DJ
 
#14 ·
Thanks Bob,
I like them too but I don't fit in them very well. I am about 6'3" and it is rather claustrphobic with the top on. That and the backs of my knees hit the steering wheel when I am trying to 'Heel and Toe'. Have to sit like a frog, can't straighten my left leg unless I put my foot behind the clutch pedal etc...........

If I had it to do over? I would have bought the car anyway.

All it needs is another 100 horse power.............................

DJ
 
#19 ·
Here is the run down,
Horsepower/torque at the rear tires.

Steve:1978 308- 158.4/145.3
DJ: 1979 308- 176.5/158.2 (Ansa)
Caleb: 1979 308- 154.6/161.7
Lem: 1980 308- 159/142
Gary: 1983 BB512i- 260.8/283.4
Dave: 1987 328- 218/185.8
Eric: 2001 456M- 371/359
Tim: 2004 360F1- 333/237.6 (Capristo)

All had stock exhausts, except the two noted.

Some corrections,
My car is actually a '78, Ansa, no cats. 14.5 air/fuel ratio, too lean.
Lem's car is running an Ansa with cats I believe.

DJ
 
#21 ·
Even more interesting, unless it's a typo, check out the torque on Gary's boxer compared to his horse power. I read the graph myself and saw the HP at 260 so I know that is correct. Usually the torque is less than the HP on an engine that is over-square, (larger bore than stroke).

Caleb's 308 had pretty high torque numbers also.

DJ
 
#22 ·
Spasso said:
Usually the torque is less than the HP on an engine that is over-square, (larger bore than stroke).
Are those torque figures the MAX TORQUE produced somewhere in the rev-range or the torque AT MAX HP? If the latter, I would expect the hp:torque ratio to mainly relate to the rpm number. That is, the higher-revving motor (at max bhp) will have a higher hp:torque ratio, as all else being equal, volumetric efficiency (& torque) is going to decrease at the higher revs.

Historically, over-square engines tend to run a higher rpm at peak-hp, but not always. My 2c worth :)
 
#23 ·
4kid$,
Thanks for rattling my cage on the torque curve. Just wasn't thinking clearly. Yes, the torque figure is the max 'somewhere' in the curve and not directly related to the max HP figure.

The max torque actually occured about 1200 RPM lower than the max horse power figure on my 308 if I remember correctly.
DJ
 
#25 ·
Actually 4 Kid$, You are correct. Short shifting would have been prudent for the sake of the engine.
I found that instead of shifting at 7700 redline I was getting the same results shifting just above the END of the max HP range of 7000 RPM. I even shifted at 8000 RPM which resulted in just flogging the engine. You can see by the graph that max HP was about 6400 RPM falling off gradually to 7000 and the max torque was around 5200 RPM.

I was gaining 3 to 4 HP per run so I wasn't sure where the 'sweet spot' was.

This is the Max HP and Air/Fuel graph and the Max HP and Torque graph.
 

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#26 ·
That's even more interesting DJ! What I said isn't really correct as you look to have a redline significantly higher than the hp peak. As you say, going all the way until the needle bends is probably not going to give you the optimum performance.

To get it 100% you'd have to plot geared-torque curves for each gear on the same graph and see where the next-higher gear's torque becomes greater than the lower gear.

We must get our white lab-coats on! :green:
 
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