Thanks Al... here goes!
1. How easy/difficult is it to change colour on a 308/328?
For example you mentioned in a different post that the 250 series engine bays, under arch areas etc are all in in satin black with removable cover plates. Does this also apply to the 308/328? (principally interested in the 328)
2. Would you advise using current paint technology when repainting an older car? for example using a UV/scratch resistant clear coat.
3. When you take a car to bare metal is it possible to eliminate any current rust issues that may arise and future proof against potential corrosion?
4 See PM!
Hi Tif, I'll do my best to answer!!
1, Colour change on a 308 is no more difficult than a std repaint - on any good quality job the door shuts & bonnet/boot reveals would be done. The actual bay & luggage compartment innards are satin anyway. I'm not sure on the 328 as I've never done one, but I'd be very suprised if they were different, maybe others here can answer that one?
2, Absolutely! Paint technology has moved on in leaps & bounds (as has the restriction on solvent emmissions) & I think people would ignore the benefits of the latest technology at their peril! (unfortunately there is cosiderable resistance to change in the motor trade - there are a lot of old boys that swear by 30 year old materials and working practices).
The main complaint I've heard regarding modern finishes is that they look plasticky & have no depth - if finished correctly by hand blocking & machine buffing then they can look as good as any cellulose paint.
Pete - I'd be interested in knowing more about industrial coatings - are the primers' sandable and can they be overcoated with a water base & Iso clear?
The main problem if they are not workable is getting the preparation to level that can be coated - filler (bondo) is easily workable with up to 400 grade paper (drycut) but beyond that really cannot be finished further.
I think I get very much industry led - one sticks to the same basic perameters and adjusts to new products, I've found a basic system that works for me and I adapt to whatever new products I can incorporate - this doesn't necessarily make my way of doing things the right way for everyone.
I have no experience with industrial coatings as I simply haven't had the opportunity to use & evaluate them. (Also I would have to do a vehicle of mine in them - I could hardly practise on a clients car!!!!!!)
3, Yes - by cutting out affected metal & welding new sections in, or if it has not holed the metal by localised sandblasting.
Bear in mind that it's my preference to strip a car by sander - not chemicals, I've always felt that introducing chemicals at this critical stage is very dangerous - most of these strippers are highly corrosive & if you don't clean every last trace away (which is virtually impossible) then you will see a light layer of red surface rust forming within hours. I have the same feelings towards wet sanding; I will wet sand the final finish for polishing, but that is it. I accept that for many years it was the only option -but refer to point1 - technology has moved on to such a level that 3000 grade drycut paper is now available - there is no need to wet sand anything other than topcoat.
4, You have pm.
Please though guys - I can only put the way I do things across - just because somebody else doesn't use the same system/materials that I do doesn't in any way mean they are wrong. I've found that we all have a different way of doing certain things.
Hope this helps, cheers, Al.