Replacing Front Hood Shock In A Testarossa - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-03-2012, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Replacing Front Hood Shock In A Testarossa

Dear Ferraristi,


Julie, Brianna, Danielle, Jessica....you'll have to excuse me, I have to replace the front hood shocks on my 91 Testarossa....
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-03-2012, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

Well, I'm so sick of these OEM and all the other hood shocks not working. I've replaced them with everything....nothing lasts. The hood just starts to droop down even after a few months.

But! With the help of Kenco from the "other forum", I've finally solved the droopy front hood syndrome on the Testarossa !


First, to gain easy access, we will need to raise and keep the front headlights in the open position.

To do this, turn on the main headlights. ( Headlights in up position)

Next, open the hood, since the hood shocks don't work, hold it open with one hand and on the inside front passenger fender, you will see a little black knob. This is the battery off switch. Turn the switch to the off position. This will turn the headlights off while leaving them in the upright position.

Next, find something to support the front hood in the FULL open position. Make sure it's sturdy, well cushioned and firmly placed. While it doesn't seem heavy, once we start removing the shocks, the hood does have enough weight to take your finger off should it fall.


Shamile

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post #3 of 18 Old 04-03-2012, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

We'll start on the passenger side first...the easy side. To access the bottom pin, you have to go through the battery access door in the front trunk.

Pull the carpet away and open the battery access cover. To make life simpler, the access door is on slip hinges and will just slide off. Open the door to straight up to the 12 o'clock position and push forward towards the driver side fender....a light tap or two helps.

Cover the battery completely with some heavy cloth or towel. Since we're working with metal tools, it could be quite easy to short the terminals with a pair of pliers.

With a set of really good and long needle nose pliers, straighten the legs of the cotter pin and pull it out. Do NOT pull the shock off the stud base just yet.

To remove the cotter pin on the upper side, you will need to go between the open front hood and the headlight bucket. Cover the area in cloth and to be more careful, cover the headlight bucket in cloth. I did this but it obscured the photo. I have placed my long narrow flat head screwdriver in place for illustration purposes.

To remove the upper cotter pin, bend the legs straight with the above mentioned screwdriver. Use your long needle nose pliers to pull out the pin.

OK.....looks like Jessica is up for a body shot.....



Shamile

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Last edited by Andrew; 04-11-2012 at 09:43 PM. Reason: Updated attachments
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-03-2012, 07:37 PM
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Hmmmm I guess changing shocks has some attendant benefits to it..........keep them coming
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-03-2012, 07:41 PM
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Shamile- Get the struts from T Rutlands. They have a source for making them far superior to the OEM struts.

Looks like you are having more fun changing your struts than is normal. Wonder why?

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post #6 of 18 Old 04-04-2012, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
Shamile- Get the struts from T Rutlands. They have a source for making them far superior to the OEM struts.



Ricambi and Rutlands both have a strut that actually works.

Shop with lesser knowledgeable suppliers and you get what you pay for.
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-04-2012, 03:22 PM
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This has the makings of an epic thread...like the top-end rebuild thread Shamile did at that other forum last year.
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-04-2012, 03:58 PM
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wait, wait.... he said struts not s******uts...



please continue...I'm suddenly paying attention

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post #9 of 18 Old 04-05-2012, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,


These are the hood shocks I found through Kenco. They work great! Use the suffix "F" then the part number on the shock. "F" 4025 I bought them from Discount / Advance auto parts for $23.99 each.

The shock body is a little larger than the OEM and you have to install them the other way around. The good part is that the mounting hole is the same size as the mounting pin.

The widely recommended Balk-amp shocks from NAPA had the hole too large. Those shocks never worked anyways. The pressure was just too low for what was needed to hold the hood up.

I've now placed the new shock on and you can see that they are in the "reverse" position. I replaced the cotter pins with new stainless steel ones.....available from Advance.


Shamile

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post #10 of 18 Old 04-05-2012, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

OK.....off to the passenger side now.

But wait....it's Julie's turn.....


What I've read and done for many years was to remove the driver side front foglight and access the shock from there.

BUT.....

On the opposite side of the battery box on the just in front of the driver wheel well is the access panel to the AC condenser....so well hidden under the carpet and not mentioned in the owner's manual.

To access the panel, pull up on the carpet from the Velcro attachment just below the flat area. The upper piece of carpet is tucked under the trunk rubber seal. You do not have to remove the seal....just pry it up slightly and put the carpet out at the beaded seam.

Shamile

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Last edited by Andrew; 04-11-2012 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Updated attachments
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-09-2012, 08:34 PM
 
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Awesome, Thanks for your post and the part #!
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-10-2012, 09:53 PM
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Most informative indeed Shamile!
are those girls factory trained technicians? I see they were exhibiting their Bona Fides rather well.

My TR has a droop problem with strutting both front and rear, do your technicians make house calls?

wintech
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-11-2012, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

Sorry for the delay.....I needed a drink and Stacy was pouring....


So, now we have the AC condenser cover panel off, you will see the hood shock mounting pin in between the front brake air duct.

Remove the cotter pin on the old shock as before and don't pull the shock off the mounting pin.

Again, from the front, use a long flat blade screwdriver to push the cotter pin arms together and pull with a long needle nose pliers. BTW, I do not have any scratches in the hood or headlight bucket. That's just the flash bouncing off the needle nose pliers.



Shamile

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Last edited by Andrew; 04-11-2012 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Updated attachments
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-11-2012, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

Now that you have the old shock out and the new one on the pins, it's time to secure it down.

This is the fun part, trying to get the new cotter pin in the mounting hole while your hand is sandwiched in between the air duct.

Once you have the new cotter pin in the slot, use the long flat blade to bend the arms up.

Do the same for the front pin and once again take your time! It's very easy for the blade to slip and you will have some miserable paint damage.

Replace the condenser cover and replace the carpet. Make sure to tuck in under the rubber gasket so the carpet smooths out.


Shamile

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-11-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,


Ahhh....for the first time ever! The hood stays up!


Even Julie loves new hood shocks.



This concludes the how to replace the hood shocks in a Testarossa.



Shamile

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-11-2012, 09:39 PM
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Updating some of the non TR photos. Great content and help for the TR shocks!

Last edited by Andrew; 04-11-2012 at 09:46 PM.
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-12-2012, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dear Ferraristi,

Well.....now, it's just a boring technical thread.....




Shamile

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post #18 of 18 Old 04-23-2012, 09:20 AM
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I replaced my front hood shocks by a later model (512 model) as the right ones are not available any more. After half a year, they still work fine. I guess the outside temperature might have a lot of infuence on the shocks. Over here it's winter and it is cold, but when you live in a warm country, the shocks probably will lost their power soon...
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