: This thread seeks to expand and elaborate, especially photographically
, upon the one by kerrywittig
, on another automotive forum, on the removal and refinishing of his spoiler:
It is in tribute to his work, and it is with his OK, that I am using his text (in italics
) as the base for the description of my own variation on the work, with my added notes. The work at first seemed daunting, but as I repeatedly read Kerryís thread and looked at the pics, I soon became inspired and motivated. This is my first time doing something like this, so I think anyone else could as well! It took me @ 2 weeks of free time this September.
I truly hope this thread will become a valuable resource for those of us who call FerrariLife
home. Photos 1, 2, 3
= 21 years of repeated cycles of scrapings-damage-patchwork repairs. The opposite corner is not as bad. REMOVAL Photo 4
. "First remove the center bolt (10mm) in the center under the hood.
At that point, crank the steer tires to the inside (driverís side to passenger and visa versa). Photos 5, 6, 7, 8
. Next remove the enclosure panels in the front of the wheel wells, 5 to 6 bolts (10mm).
[Driverís side is shown as representative, passengerís side is not vented] Photo 9
. With these panels removed you gain access to the 10mm nut that is located about 3" inside the fender. JUST loosen it 2 or 3 turns.
: itís no big deal if you loosen it too much and it drops off the bolt, since you will recover it upon removing the spoiler!] Photo 10
. Now remove the yellow parking/turn lens with a Philips screwdriver.
[Incidentally, you might notice that I have a protective film applied over these lights. I obtained the sheet from Griotís Garage and did my own cutting.] Photos 11, 12, 13
. You then take a regular straight blade screwdriver and remove the 2 screws
[circled] and take out the light assembly, unplug the electrics and set aside.
[Prior to reinstalling the connections I cleaned the contact blades and applied some di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion] Photo 14
. This now gives you "access" to the 10mm nut that is located about 15" front of the wheel well opening. Again JUST loosen 2-3 turns.
: again, itís no big deal if you loosen it too much and it drops off the bolt, since you will recover it upon removing the spoiler!] You then remove any Philips head screws (thatís what was holding the aluminum belly pan covers on mine) or rivets from the front bottom edge of the spoiler.
[I replaced the Ďoriginalí screws with #8 machine screws, used the original washers and saved the original screws] Photos 15, 16, 17
. Now the spoiler should be pulled forward and there ya go.
I suggest that when replacing any of the panels or the spoiler itself that you use new stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers/screws and anti-seize. Also here is your opportunity to clean any debris out of the AC condenser and clean and detail areas that NO ONE will ever see.........but you will know are clean, tidy and correct!
Hope this is helpful to others. Kerry" REPAIR Photo 18.
This is about all the materials you would need. Make sure you mask of the four mounting bolts to protect from future sprayings. Photos 19, 20, 21
. After fiber-glassing. Photo 22
. After 5 to 6 cycles of Bondo application and sanding. I started out with 80-grit and progressed to 220-grit wet sanding after a couple of coats of sealing primer. Photos 23, 24, 25
. After the final coat of primer. I then made tracings of the top and bottom silhouettes of the spoiler, with screw-hole markings, for future reference. Photo 26
. After being sprayed with Line-X, which btw, does not add that much weight to the unit. It was this demonstration video from Line-X which convinced me to use the product instead of just repainting it: http://www.linex.com/free_fall_12.shtml RE-INSTALLATION Photos 27, 28, 29, 30
. Donít forget about the shims. If your spoiler required them previously, you will need them again regardless. The Ďnewí spoiler is perceptibly thicker than before, so fitting is a little more snug; but I did not need to force anything back on or in.
In order to facilitate future spoiler removals (Heaven forbids), I carefully marked and pre-drilled four holes corresponding with the four mounting bolts directly above.
The next time I have the car on a friendís lift; I will use a step-drill and create 5/8Ē ports to access these bolts. Be careful with the 2 holes below the bolts proximal to the wheel well splash guards, since there is a sub-frame element just medial to where you will need to create the ports.
I will then paint and grease the cut edges and plug with rubber body plugs.
From this project onwards, a 10mm socket on a flex extension shaft would easily reach these spoiler-mounting bolts, eliminating the need to remove the front signal light groups or the splash guards. On my car, the passenger side splash guard was metal -vs. the plastic one on the driverís side- and I was unable to flex it sufficiently for removal; thus I had to extricate the battery to get to the needed mounting bolt.
I spread a generous amount of industrial grease along the inferior surface of the spoiler to further minimize the impact of any future contact it might make with an offending surface. Kerry
took it a step further and fashioned a skid plate for his. Not being certain that I need one, still, I am looking into having something similar made by a friend who fabricates metal parts for a local racing shop. Weíll need to decide upon choice of metal and thickness.
Possibly this is a service we can offer to owners of other cars and models Ö stay tuned