The engine is basically stock. When the rings or valve guides start letting go I'll do a tear down and rebuild.
The manifold was a fairly simple affair to fabricate as well as spacing the ITB's. It's using the stock Hyabusa rubber connections to the runners as they are molded for the injector discharge angles and also using the stock rubber velocity stacks which also serve to hold the bottom plate of the air cleaner assembly. I have allowed enough clearence above and around the stacks for good airflow.
Throttle linkage was unbelievably easy. The Hyabusa uses a two cable system where one cable that pulls from the hand grip opens the throttle and the throttles have a return pull back to the hand grip. I simply used the return pull cable from one bank of the ITB's to the open linkage on the other bank. I had a custom cable / jacket /adjuster made up for around $50. No complex linkage / bellbranks etc. to make.
Each bank has it's own vacuum block where there is a take off from each ITB. Each sides vacuum block is connected to each other, so there is a very stable vacuum signal from all the ITB's that a M.A.P. sensor can take and to the fuel pressure regulator..
I made the air filters housings from 6mm anodized aluminum and used K&N airfilters that were originally designed for a Datsun 240z. The size was perfect. The stainless steel thumbscrew holdowns (and internal supports) were all off the shelf from McMaster-Carr.
I've allowed for the oil vapor from the canister to be vented back to the air cleaner assemblies and in one of them have an air temp sensor.
I will be using an external oil filter. In place of the Ferrari oil filter mount is a Lancia Thema 8.32 part with an AN-12 adapter.
The distributor drives are capped off with plates I had machined and the Aeromitive FPR is supported by a plate that is sandwiched between the end of the cam box and the machined cap.
I'm not going to "pretty up" the cam covers or belt covers. I like the look of the castings as is. The engine will be going into the Lancia Stratos replica I'm building and will be my track day and rally car. Looks more authentic this way. The raw castings give it that "race motor" look. Tho the air cleaners look maybe a little foo foo for a battle axe.
One more thing is that I'll be using Coil-On-Plugs in a wasted spark arrangement from the Motec ECU. I found the perfect length COP from a Suzuku motorcycle application (found on eBay for dirt) and some thick rubber gromets from McMaster.
wow. anything been done to this engine? Details!