F355 F355 major service and then some... - Page 2 - Ferrari Life
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post #21 of 49 Old 01-15-2016, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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And here's were we are today...
Valves, guides and stem seals.
A couple of liners (#2 and #7)
New rings all the way around
Rod bearings
And whatever other surprises lurk from within.


All pretty routine for these cars.
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post #22 of 49 Old 01-18-2016, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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And the work continues...
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post #23 of 49 Old 01-18-2016, 12:49 PM
 
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Great photos
Great subject matter
Keep em coming
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post #24 of 49 Old 01-23-2016, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Liners #2 and #7 removed...
Color code/assembly class verified...
Moving along nicely, with cleaning and much inspection next up.
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post #25 of 49 Old 01-24-2016, 02:53 AM
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David, were all the rings free on those pistons? None stuck?

Also I note you're replacing only the rod bearings? The owner didn't opt to replace the mains "while you're in there"?

Great pics - thanks for sharing all this with us DIY'ers

'99 550, Rosso Corsa / Nero, S/N:114654, Assy: 31836, Engine: 52084

High mileage, low compression, and missing on a few cylinders.....just like my cars.

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post #26 of 49 Old 01-24-2016, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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David, were all the rings free on those pistons? None stuck?

Also I note you're replacing only the rod bearings? The owner didn't opt to replace the mains "while you're in there"?

Great pics - thanks for sharing all this with us DIY'ers
John,

My pleasure, John. Despite the magnitude/potential diffiucluty of this repair, there has been little drama thus far. I guess replacing most of the "starting to round" head nuts doesn't count...The typical Ferrari WSM errors and ambiguities are frustrating, but we've been down that path before.

No stuck rings, although there was some pitting/corrosion noticed on a few of them. I did find on one cylinder that the top and second ring gaps were perfectly aligned! The pistons lands and skirts look very good.

Despite near zero liner wear (on the remaining liners), rings gaps were impressively wide, hence explaining the slow to pump up compression numbers. As typically, the guides and (particularly) the exhaust valves are well past their prime.

If needed, I'll do the mains and, of course, anything else that's needed. There is clear evidence of very good care, other than a likely header failure (or two) which contributed to this failure.

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post #27 of 49 Old 01-29-2016, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Preparing to remove the crankshaft...

Timing chain tensioner locked
Lock nut on pump removed and gear broken free from woodruff key.
Several gentle taps with a "special" mallet and the cover is off.
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post #28 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Check end float....

Right on the money...
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post #29 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 06:53 AM
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David,

I'm assuming you set the indicator to zero and if so the measurement is .015". The WSM states .1-.289mm which is .004" - .011"

Is this value in the WSM incorrect?

I see the WSM also states a .3mm (.01") wear limit - that can't be added to the spec - can it?

EDIT: once again I think I mis read the lovely WSM. After more thought it seems as .01 is allowable for wear and you are about 1/2 way in that spec. I wish the WSM had all information in ONE place. I think I'm going to start marking up my electronic copy by adding the data to the pages.

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post #30 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 07:06 AM
 
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IŽd be interested to know how many miles the engine has been running. Great work from your side!


Thanks!
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post #31 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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End float

I work in the metric system 99.99% of the time. Virtually all of my measuring gear is metric. It eliminates one more possible error. And yes, the dial indicator was zeroed as we're looking for absolute movement.

Specs: 0.100 to.0.289 mm
Actual: 0.15 mm

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Last edited by David @ FluentInFerrari; 01-30-2016 at 12:00 PM. Reason: decimal point
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post #32 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David @ FluentInFerrari View Post
I work in the metric system 99.99% of the time. Virtually all of my measuring gear is metric. It eliminates one more possible error. And yes, the dial indicator was zeroed as we're looking for absolute movement.

Specs: 0.100 to.0289 mm
Actual: 0.15 mm

David - thanks for the explanation. Do I understand the wear correct? (as the max end float can be .589mm?)

Given my main business, I deal with metric all the time and hate every minute of it So, I always convert to numbers I better understand

And I know you mean .289mm not .0289mm...
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post #33 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Do I understand the wear correct? (as the max end float can be .589 mm?) No. Total movement cannot exceed 0.289 mm with a wear(serviceable) limit of 0.300 mm. If we're at the wear limit, new thrust washers or crankshaft work are in order.
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And I know you mean .289mm not .0289mm...
Yep...

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post #34 of 49 Old 01-30-2016, 12:20 PM
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Sorry to beat this like a dead horse but I guess I'm not understanding the wear limit....

Are you saying the wear (.3mm) affords .011mm (.3 - .289) of allowable wear past the max install spec of .289mm? If so, that's an awfully small wear allowance...
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post #35 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Crankshaft removed...

And the dry sump pump...for clear access to the liners. After a clean-up deglaze, she'll be ready for a thorough cleaning.
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post #36 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 09:12 AM
 
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Great photos

How do those tiny oil spraying jets receive their oil to spray on the pistons...if that's what they do?
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post #37 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Great photos
How do those tiny oil spraying jets receive their oil to spray on the pistons...if that's what they do?
Thanks. We provide our clients with detailed photos of all the work we do.

They are indeed mini oil sprayers which shoot oil on the back side of the pistons for cooling. Their feed is the pressurized oil galley in the center of the engine which also feeds the main bearings.
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post #38 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 09:42 AM
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David - just curious: Why did you remove the crankshaft? And, will you now be replacing the crank bearings?
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post #39 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Why did you remove the crankshaft? And, will you now be replacing the crank bearings?
The liners need to be deglazed (surface prepared) for new rings. This requires a very specific type of hone which, in the process of honing, may introduce an abrasive slurry into the block. Rather than mask the crankshaft or risk hitting it, the time is takes to remove is inconsequential. It is just so much easier to really clean the block without worrying about the crankshaft or dry sump pump.

All of the bearings show modest-moderate wear, but will be replaced as "we are there" and the costs are minimal with regards to the grand scheme of the project. As a general rule, I do not like to reuse bearings once they've been crushed. And despite the crankshaft end float being in specs, I do not like the looks of one of the thrust washers.

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post #40 of 49 Old 02-01-2016, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David @ FluentInFerrari View Post
The liners need to be deglazed (surface prepared) for new rings. This requires a very specific type of hone which, in the process of honing, may introduce an abrasive slurry into the block. Rather than mask the crankshaft or risk hitting it, the time is takes to remove is inconsequential. It is just so much easier to really clean the block without worrying about the crankshaft or dry sump pump.

All of the bearings show modest-moderate wear, but will be replaced as "we are there" and the costs are minimal with regards to the grand scheme of the project. As a general rule, I do not like to reuse bearings once they've been crushed. And despite the crankshaft end float being in specs, I do not like the looks of one of the thrust washers.
Interesting. I did not think it was recommend to hone the liners given the very thin amount of Nikasil. If the liners are round within spec, is this needed?

Also, have you considered re-plating #2 & 7 liners instead of replacing them? US Chrome offers Nikasil.

EDIT, if you look at the photo of my liners posted in the start of the thread, I still have the cross hatched hone marks so that is nice
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