F355 Car went into limp mode. Need some help - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-11-2015, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Car went into limp mode. Need some help

My car is going straight to a solid slow down and limp mode with no warning. I will do this after 3-4 min of driving. The. In a mile or so go to normal for it to pop up and go into limp mode. Not sure where to start but her is the codes it throws. There is no cel just these codes
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-11-2015, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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Cat temps with solid SDL was 263 and 265
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-11-2015, 06:04 PM
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I assume its a 355?
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-11-2015, 06:47 PM
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Judging by the code i believe thats a bank 1 shutdown so check the sdecu down by the rhs rear wheel. You can swap sdecu to other side its by lhs rear tire and if it switches codes to a 1454 then you have a bad sdecu.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-12-2015, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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My guess that is the side that's bad. Doesn't that side control the bypass valve? I have no vacuum at the valve
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-12-2015, 08:21 AM
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5.2 cars have 3 TC's and TCU's. One for each cat and one after bypass. Bank 1 and bypass TCU's are located on left side below air pump
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-12-2015, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
My guess that is the side that's bad. Doesn't that side control the bypass valve? I have no vacuum at the valve
As dave explained you should have three. If you crawl under car you can get at the bypass sdecu on rhs as dave pointed out. You can take that one off and switch with the other one on that side.
Or do what i did and buy an extra and i just plugged it in to trouble shoot when my bypass one screwed up.
Then i knew that was the problem and changed it out and bought another green style off ebay. Its good to have an extra when i went on my big trip just in case.
I have found only a few things could really shut you down when on a road trip and this was one of them.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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As dave explained you should have three. If you crawl under car you can get at the bypass sdecu on rhs as dave pointed out. You can take that one off and switch with the other one on that side.
Or do what i did and buy an extra and i just plugged it in to trouble shoot when my bypass one screwed up.
Then i knew that was the problem and changed it out and bought another green style off ebay. Its good to have an extra when i went on my big trip just in case.
I have found only a few things could really shut you down when on a road trip and this was one of them.
I think this is what I will do. I will buy a used ECU and Thermocpl from Ferrparts and swap them around.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-14-2015, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
I think this is what I will do. I will buy a used ECU and Thermocpl from Ferrparts and swap them around.

Personally, that is not a part I would buy used....
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-15-2015, 09:02 AM
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Personally, I'd first invest in a decent DVM and some quality time with the WSM. These are reasonably simple devices to troubleshoot...Think of the TC as a battery and the SDECU as a three level switch; OK, alert and shut-down, with each stage having a different output.

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post #11 of 15 Old 09-15-2015, 10:46 PM
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Also as dave said above there is nothing wrong with understanding the system. What he didnt say and he usually does is make sure that your cats or bypass are not too hot causing the slowdown. Nothing like burning up your baby because you do not understand the system. I feel it works very good if functioning correctly.

A prime example is one of my previous posts where the car and exhaust were hot and the lhs coils quit working. If it was not for the sd ecu shutting off fuel i coild have burned the car up.
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-16-2015, 04:40 AM
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I'm not one for throwing parts at a problem, however, with the TCU, it's a common issue especially if the units are black potted. With OBDII, you should get a code (pending) that will give you a clue of the offending unit. If your units are all original, it's good insurance to buy a new spare anyway.

So, replacing the one that is giving a code is a pretty sure bet. TC's can go bad too, but less often. It could be a wiring issue also but my bet is on a bad TCU.

If you have the time, Eurospares or Superformance have them at lower costs than this side of the pond.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-16-2015, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
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I feel it works very good if functioning correctly.
I agree completely. I was out test driving a 360 last week when the "Slow Down" light started flashing. A quick test of the system (despite the misleading OBD-II code pointing to the SDECU) revealed a defective TC. The system is smart enough to indicate some sort of a problem if an illogical input is received from the TC. Granted my BP jumped a bit, but a quick verification of exhaust temps with an IR gun revealed nothing out of the norm.

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post #14 of 15 Old 09-16-2015, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David @ FluentInFerrari View Post
A quick test of the system (despite the misleading OBD-II code pointing to the SDECU) revealed a defective TC.
Misleading? Correct me if I'm wrong: The system can provide a code that the SDECU has told the Motronic the CAT (or bypass exhaust) is above operating temp. Given the TC connects to the TCU, the code points to the one of 3 units that may have an issue.

OBDII, to my knowledge cannot determine if the fault is within the TCU, the TC or the wiring. But, if it points you to one of the 3 systems, I don't find that misleading.
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-16-2015, 07:11 PM
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I think he ment the misleading slow down light since the cats were ok. So he tested the tc and found it bad. His next test would have been the sdecu.

I think you guys are saying the same thing.

I understand it the same as you Dave R that it tells you its wiring, tc, or sdecu. Has to be one of them though.
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