F355 F1 failed - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 07-28-2015, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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F1 failed

Thought i would share after 10 plus years of ownership my f1 left me stranded. Was driving and the f1 light started to flash i knew there was a problem so i changed lanes and proceeded to pull over. It automatically shifted from 4 to 2 after about 2.5 min then 30 sec later as i was waiting for the light to change so i could pull into a parking lot it shifted in to neutral. I coasted into the parking lot shut off the car and turned the key to restart and noticed light still flashing and no pump noise. I figured it was a fuse but towed the car home. Got home checked out some threads and found that the 40 amp fuse under pass side footwell was blown. Put in new one car runs fine but not sure why it blew.

On startup the light flashes the normal amount and pump builds pressure and stops after maybe 14 or so seconds. Will check how many amps that fuse is seeing on the weekend but car seems fine again.

These fuses are the large ones and no spare in the tool kit at the time. Just thought i would share that for 2 fuses are 20 and 40 amps and all f1 guys should have these. I did have a spare relay but that was not the problem.

I also without starting car wanted to see how many shifts i could do without the pump kicking in. First too second seems to kick in every time but after charging can go 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 before kicks in again.

Also after 1.5 hours left off the flashing light only flashes 5 times too charge and pump shuts off at 10 seconds.

Whats everyone elses do? Thanks
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post #2 of 18 Old 07-29-2015, 05:39 AM
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Thanks for sharing, Grant. I will check what spare fuses I have in my tool box and be sure to get some others.
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post #3 of 18 Old 07-31-2015, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Just to let you know Dave i was worried car being 16 years old and original F1 pump that maybe my pump,was going so i checked the amps it draws when shifting.

Car engine was off and had the misses shift multiple times through all gears and one time it had a shift malfunction( never happened before) and it kicked it from third back to neutral. My guess was the malfunction was due to lack of motion of the transmission. Including the shift malfunction the most it seems to draw for amps is 6 amps. On many shifts it only draws 1 or 2 amps. (I wonder why it differs)

Now this could be more in sport mode at full rpm but I doubted.

If you have time and are curious i would be as well to see what others have for amp draw while shifting engine off. Of course it draws no amps until it starts to repressurize.

Also it repressurizes from first to second every time but can go 2 to 3 to 4 before repressurizing. It seems pretty consistent i think.

Also if i have not said it before i believe from cold light flashes 7 or 9 times before turning off and pump runs for a few more seconds after that.
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-01-2015, 03:20 PM
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FYI: based on my own experience these electric motors without being attached to the pump should draw 2.1-2.5 Amp, when attached to the pump about 4-5 Amp (no oil pumping), under load (pumping oil) between 12 and up to 22 Amp, depending on oil pressure and operating temperature.
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-01-2015, 08:25 PM
 
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if my car left me stranded -- i would sell the mother ducker.
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post #6 of 18 Old 08-03-2015, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrence-lugar View Post
if my car left me stranded -- i would sell the mother ducker.
I know, i know, but i just love it too much. I have also been stranded in my new ford f150. Fuel just decides too shut off, in the old days AAA was not required now days i think its a must have. Vehicles are just too dam automated.
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post #7 of 18 Old 08-03-2015, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgelovani View Post
FYI: based on my own experience these electric motors without being attached to the pump should draw 2.1-2.5 Amp, when attached to the pump about 4-5 Amp (no oil pumping), under load (pumping oil) between 12 and up to 22 Amp, depending on oil pressure and operating temperature.
Thanks i am assumeing this is at the pump i measured at the fuses, only because the fuse blew i wanted to see how much current its experiencing. 6 amps is not much i do not think.

Mind you this was when engine was notmwarmed up and pump was cold, it would probably draw more when experiencing normal driving engine bay temps.
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-03-2015, 02:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz355 View Post
I know, i know, but i just love it too much.
Slightly off topic, but is this a good buy to you: 1998 Ferrari F1 Spider for $50K, most likely cheaper than that...since there's a Best Offer option.
eBay item number:371402201753
Ferrari Other F1 Spider | eBay

it's the cheapest I've ever seen a 355 priced at.
I've kind of always wanted a 355 F1, or maybe a 360 -- but I kind of prefer a 355. i'm a sucker for the 90's.

Funny coincidence, speak of the devil...and he appears: yesterday, I saw a maroon BMW Z4 being towed/lifted onto a truck on the side of the road.

Last edited by lawrence-lugar; 08-03-2015 at 02:12 PM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-06-2015, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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If you want one you need to do a propper PPI and if it checks out then it would be a good deal yes.
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-21-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Update

Found my F1 problem thought i would share. The plug at the back LHS had an intermittent connection. It was the only plug i did not fix with my gold connctor kit. After dooing all the other ones when i did my engine out i was too tired and my back was too sore so i did not change the connctions.
My logic was i can do It any time because its right there in the open.

Well this time when it quit working i went to replace the fuse and the fuse was not blown. I turned the key on went to the back wiggled the wires and their was a poor connection in the plug.
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-29-2015, 02:45 PM
 
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Nice work

Nice piece of detective work and certainly much cheaper than the dealer would charge you. I'm preparing to do an engine out on my 95 F355 and am interested in knowing more about the "gold connector kit" you mentioned. My plan is to try and replace anything that could potentially fail in the future while the engine is out (not including engine internals), so any advice you might offer is appreciated.

1997 Ferrari F355 Berlinetta
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-29-2015, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbquattroporte View Post
Nice piece of detective work and certainly much cheaper than the dealer would charge you. I'm preparing to do an engine out on my 95 F355 and am interested in knowing more about the "gold connector kit" you mentioned. My plan is to try and replace anything that could potentially fail in the future while the engine is out (not including engine internals), so any advice you might offer is appreciated.
Electrical connectors are a known problem however replacing tin on tin connections with gold on tin is not recommended by the electronic connector manufactures.
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-30-2015, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Scuderia rampart sells the kit. Dave is correct but i feel they were better than what i had. Especially many of my boots were cracking or completely destroyed. The thing i did like about the kit is it was all inclusive. Pins, rubberboits, seals, crimpers, pin removal devices, etc.
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-05-2015, 05:29 PM
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-20-2015, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz355 View Post
Found my F1 problem thought i would share. The plug at the back LHS had an intermittent connection. It was the only plug i did not fix with my gold connctor kit. After dooing all the other ones when i did my engine out i was too tired and my back was too sore so i did not change the connctions.
My logic was i can do It any time because its right there in the open.

Well this time when it quit working i went to replace the fuse and the fuse was not blown. I turned the key on went to the back wiggled the wires and their was a poor connection in the plug.
UPDATE
Ok i thought i found the problem and it fixed it for the last three weeks or so but the fuse blew again. I can not rule out damage because i was driving the car hard and i bottomed it out hard enough to break that bottom plate where the f1 sensor is on the gear box. With oil leaking out slightly i replaced the fuse again and drove it home.

With tr512s new post on f1 pump replacement and mine being 16 years old i may just spend the 500 bucks and replace it. Before i do though i may just put a portable amp gauge on the f1 pump so i can view it in real time.

Will keep the group posted on my findings. I feel it is possible the wack may have bumped the actuator.
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post #16 of 18 Old 09-21-2015, 02:41 PM
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Sounds like the F1 pump electric motor is going to completely fail very soon... I have a solution. PM me, if you wish.
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post #17 of 18 Old 09-26-2015, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Still has not failed but i guess we will see. Will check amps tomorrow after a hard drive. Drove another 150 miles over the week on 3 different occasions with no issues. Kinda puzzling. You would think if it was going to fail it would have done so or the amps would be high, or the amount of time to prime would go up. None of those symptoms yet.
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post #18 of 18 Old 09-29-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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So took the car out today with the new pilot sport cup 2 tires and what a difference.
Pulled into garage and checked the f1 for amps and something kinda weird going on. The first to second shift is pulling the most amps and its only 6 to 8 amps once the motor is running but right as it kicks it and not everytime it will flash like 30 something sometimes 40 something. This is only a flash on the dvm before returning to 6 or 8 steady until pump shutdown.
Would really appreciate someone elses readings to compare. I am checking by the fuses under the pass ftwell.

When cold the amps are higher a little but never do i get the flash of 30 or 40 something. Only like 10 to 12 i think.

This flash is for less than a second for sure. Its so fast the second number varies and lasts about as long as a on off flick of a light switch.
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