F355 Slow down light 5.2 motronic 99f1 - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 37 Old 06-09-2015, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Slow down light 5.2 motronic 99f1

So never had a slow down light before. Its happened every drive for the last week but the flashing light eventually goes out especially if the drive last longer than half an hour.

The exhaust is tubi headers and a cappi twin valve. Since my 99 has one light for slow down not sire which bank it would be and switching the cat ecu's wont tell me if one is bad.

Any suggestions?

Did not get it wet.
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post #2 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 02:13 AM
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Start here:

Most mid-range code readers will tell you which one is reporting the fault. Keep in mind that if you're still running the factory bypass pipe, you have three SDECUs to contend with. Personally, unless you've verified that the cat temps are within normal ranges, I would not be driving the car.

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post #3 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 02:26 AM
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Dave beat me to it. I'll add one other comment: If you get the SDL upon cold start, it's a dead giveaway that you have a bad TCU, TC or wire connection.


Ironically, my last drive my SDL came on briefly too. I need to investigate also.
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post #4 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 05:06 AM
 
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David,
Could you elaborate on how a code reader can be used to diagnose a flashing SDL? That would have saved me a lot of time.

My flashing SDL eventually would turn into a solid SDL and one bank would shut down. After swapping ecu's around and checking voltages, I narrowed it down to a bad TC. I had two black epoxy ecu's and I just replaced them with green ones even though I think they were still ok.

Dave, how are the cats working out? SDL related to them? I am still waiting on mine.
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post #5 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 05:13 AM
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Ernest, what? You have still not received your CATs or did you not order them yet? No CEL's thus far but I've only driven a couple hundred miles.

I did just purchase a Kiwi Wifi OBDII reader that has an app for the iPhone. I'm going to play with it later this week - I'm hoping it will display CAT temps.
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post #6 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 05:34 AM
 
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They were supposed to send them Monday. It took them about 4 weeks. I am in no hurry, as I have my Dads NSX in the shop with a turn signal issue. How he realized it was broken is beyond me......he has only driven it 2500 miles since 1999. It has 22K on it. He is going ballistic about a $250 part, I told him not to get a 355!

I did not see how to measure CAt temps with mine, but I didnt look hard. Let us know if you do. I leave my kiwi plugged in all the time, really a cool tool that has taught me a lot. about the OBDII system.
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post #7 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 05:40 AM
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I just ordered a IR gun to measure temps - it was not easy to find one that goes to 1800F (the one I ordered goes to 1832)
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post #8 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emac View Post
David,
Could you elaborate on how a code reader can be used to diagnose a flashing SDL? .
You will get a specific code (which escapes me at the moment) for the Vescovini ECU. Once that is know and a quick measurement of the cat temp, you know if what you're chasing is real or nonsense. In that a bank was shut down, there's a high probability that the particular ECU was indeed bad.

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I did just purchase a Kiwi Wifi OBDII reader that has an app for the iPhone. I'm going to play with it later this week - I'm hoping it will display CAT temps.
Great unit, but I'm 99.5% sure that it's not going to give you cat temperature. I have that unit and use it for verifying monitor readiness states after certain repairs.

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post #9 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David @ FluentInFerrari View Post

Great unit, but I'm 99.5% sure that it's not going to give you cat temperature.
Crap
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post #10 of 37 Old 06-10-2015, 09:14 AM
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Maybe this will help:
SDECU failure: Light on/Bank may or may not be dropped
Cat temp at idle: About 600 dF +/-150dF,

SDECU working: Light on/bank likely dropped
Cat temp at idle: About 1700 dF +200/-0dF

Temp ranges are approximate. WSM has details. IR gun readings will differ from WSM and SD-2 readings.

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post #11 of 37 Old 06-12-2015, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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It was late when i wrote this and cat temps are good and they r hyperflows and the capristo twin valve has the three thermos still. I forgot to put that it comes on at cold start and goes off after half hour. I wish the f1 s still had two slow downs but with 1 i am guessing which thermo or which tcu is bad.
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post #12 of 37 Old 06-12-2015, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the insite and options though. I will keep you posted but i cant even change things around since i only have 1 light. Kinda pissed that the newer car is harder to diagnose. I would have though they would have designed it better.
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post #13 of 37 Old 06-12-2015, 07:43 AM
 
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You can measure output V on the ecu's. Swap things around and see how the voltages change. That was how I narrowed it down. There were a couple of threads on fchat that listed the voltages as the system heated up. IIRC, the default voltages when things go wrong is around 5. I was getting 5v when the car was cold. It has been a few months, so I don't remember specifics about which wires are the output ones. Check those threads.
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post #14 of 37 Old 06-12-2015, 07:58 AM
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Grant, if you have black potted, original TCU's, it is fairly common for those to fail. While I'm not a fan of throwing parts a problem, sometimes that can be effective.

When I first got my car and knew nothing about these, I got a SDL and ended up buying a new TCU (never been used yet). So for me, I can simply plug in that new unit and see if m problem goes away. If I can pull a code via the scanner, at lest I will know which of the 3 to try first.

The threads Ernest refers to are from DrBob. He had a bad TC which is far less common than a bad TCU. His threads can be hard to read but he did come up with a good process to diagnose.
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post #15 of 37 Old 06-12-2015, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks i allready ordered a tc and tcu. I dont like throwing parts either but this is my busy time of year so parts are cheaper than my time right now. Thanks all i will keep you posted.
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post #16 of 37 Old 06-15-2015, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Course i ordered the tc and then saw i should have bout it from bob.

Wanted to add something the last 5 drives the slowdown light comes on immediately upon startup but after about .5 hrs it goes off. Then if i idle too much it come on and when i start to drive after 5 min goes off. It seems pretty consistent. Seems unusual to me but not sure yet.
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post #17 of 37 Old 06-16-2015, 06:17 PM
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Grant, took my 98 F1 out tonight. SDL on cold start. Had scanner. P1445. Bank 1 TC or TCU.

I'll start by installing the new TCU I bought a couple years back and see if that fixes issue. PS, no CEL but code upon scan. Scan your car, you might find the code you need.
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post #18 of 37 Old 06-20-2015, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Dave been raining for a few days but my gut is telling me that this sdl might be related to voltage. This would explain why it came on when idling more. I never use a trickle charger but i put one on the car. It has been very consistent every time i start it it has come on for the last couple weeks. When it stops raining it will be charged and if it does not come on upon startup i am thinking it might partialy be voltage related.
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post #19 of 37 Old 06-20-2015, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taz355 View Post
Dave been raining for a few days but my gut is telling me that this sdl might be related to voltage. This would explain why it came on when idling more. I never use a trickle charger but i put one on the car. It has been very consistent every time i start it it has come on for the last couple weeks. When it stops raining it will be charged and if it does not come on upon startup i am thinking it might partialy be voltage related.
It could be, but if you connect a scanner at least you will know which one of the 3 systems to look at first.
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post #20 of 37 Old 06-20-2015, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Good point especially because i carry it in the car. Ok not enough data to base a firm conclusion but i just drove a short trip and no light. If this still happens after two or three trips i might consider it the problem.
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