F355 How many ECUs are in a 355 Spider? - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 22 Old 05-06-2015, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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How many ECUs are in a 355 Spider?

How many ECUs are in a 355 Spider and where are they located?

I think the car alarm and demobilizer are under the leather wrapped cover behind the driver's seat (inside two riveted covers). Is the engine ECU under the leather wrapped cover behind the passenger's seat? I believe there is one for the antilock brakes too and one for the active suspension. I think there's one for the HVAC, another for the top (and seats all in one....is this under the top hydraulic cover?). Maybe others too. Don't know for sure how many nor where they are located. Can one of you confirm the actual quantity and their locations?
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post #2 of 22 Old 05-06-2015, 11:31 PM
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Jerry- You can download the three volumes of the F355 workshop manual for free from ferraridatabase.com. Also, there are parts catalogs for the F355 on line at Ricambi's site. Incidentally, there are two Motronic ECUs, one for each bank of cylinders. Not sure anybody knows the complete answer to your question off the top of their head, but we shall see. I would have to look in the WSM for mine, and even then probably would miss an ECU or two.

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post #3 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 06:34 AM
 
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The number of Motronic ECU's is dependent on whether it is a 2.7 or 5.2. The 2.7s have two located on either side of the engine bay while the 5.2 have just one.
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post #4 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 06:59 AM
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How many ECUs are in a 355 Spider and where are they located?

I think the car alarm and demobilizer are under the leather wrapped cover behind the driver's seat (inside two riveted covers). Is the engine ECU under the leather wrapped cover behind the passenger's seat? I believe there is one for the antilock brakes too and one for the active suspension. I think there's one for the HVAC, another for the top (and seats all in one....is this under the top hydraulic cover?). Maybe others too. Don't know for sure how many nor where they are located. Can one of you confirm the actual quantity and their locations?
Jerry, correct - driver's side (behind seat) is immobilizer and alarm, passenger is Motronic ECU (this is for 96-99 cars, not 95 as 95 has 2 ECU's located in the engine bay).

The F1's have the F1 ECU behind the driver's seat above the immobilizer ECU adjacent to the glove box.

You also have an airbag ECU within the tunnel.
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post #5 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 09:54 AM
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Dave- Funny, but I do not deal with F355s very much and just assumed they all had two Motronic ECUs like the 360 and F430 and all the V12s. Should have looked. His is a 96 and since OBDII was mandated in the US by January 1996, she has Motronic 5.2.

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post #6 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 10:09 AM
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Terry, I only know this because I own 1 of each (95 2.7 with 2 Motronic's OBDI and 98 5.2 with a single Motronic OBDII)
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post #7 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys, I should have said mine's a '96 OBDII.


It makes me kind of nervous to realize practically everything in the car is controlled by an ECU. I hope these things a pretty robust and bullet proof. Perhaps some more than others? Don't know. I assume they can't be repaired. They either work or they don't and, if bad, have to be replaced.


If some system in the car isn't working, how do you know if its a bad ECU or perhaps it needs to be reset?


For instance, I've had my car up on jack stands this past winter and been working on several different things. Its been on a battery tender the whole time. A while ago I had to turn the key on to move the passenger's seat. This apparently pulled the battery down just enough for the tender to be unable bring it back up so I put a trickle charger on it overnight and then put the tender back (my battery may be getting old and in need of being replaced but I believe that's an unrelated issue here). That worked. But the next time I turned the key on for something, the HVAC fan was blowing on high and the windshield wipers would not shut off. No change to any of the controls had any effect so I just turned the key back off and resumed the rest of the work. Later I tried it again with the same result.


What may have been responsible when I turned the key on that second time was the fact that the tack/speedo cluster was out of the car then so all its plugs are disconnected and all of the center console controls, including the HVAC module, were out at that time too. But all the console assemblies and their plugs (but not the dash cluster) were back in when things went bananas. I'm hoping all the disconnected plugs were somehow responsible for this and it will correct itself when everything's back together. Don't know what this might have done to the HVAC ECU. Hopefully it just needs to be reset (sort of like a computer being re-booted).


Any thoughts?
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post #8 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 01:03 PM
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Very open ended question with lots of detail to answer.

One suggestion - turn off the battery switch when you plan to not use the car for an extended period. When you turn it back on, let the car idle for 10 minutes for the ECU to relearn the parameters.
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post #9 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 01:18 PM
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It makes me kind of nervous to realize practically everything in the car is controlled by an ECU. I hope these things a pretty robust and bullet proof.
-For the most part, they are near bulletproof. Come to think of it virtually every car in the world produced from about 1996 on has some sort of engine ,management computer.. The number one item, without fail, that damages or destroys the ECU (any ECU) is jump starting and/or starting the car with a partially charge battery.

When the car is not in use for more than a couple of weeks, it should be on a trickle charger. If the battery goes dead sooner than that, have a pro look at the car for parasitic draw.

Although it has become almost "common practice" to disconnect the battery to "fix" certain , doing so is not the end all save all as one might let you to believe.. All of the adaptive values are lost; hence any potential diagnostic data is gone. Your "readiness monitors have all be reset to a Not-ready" state. Granted, starting the car with everything off and letting her idle for 10 does get your baseline settings back. There more to just the baselines settings...

That's not to say that there are not good reasons to disconnect the battery. I just wouldn't be doing it on a regular basis.

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post #10 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 02:55 PM
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Dave, I had my battery switch off for approx 2 weeks until yesterday. When I turned it on, I had a CEL and the same codes as before I shut it off. That would suggest the ECU retains some data - no?
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post #11 of 22 Old 05-07-2015, 05:23 PM
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Dave,

The short answer is yes; a stored hard code will be kept. Pending codes; I'm not sure, but do seem to recall that they are lost.These are valuable diagnostic tools when trying to determine why we have the condition we have. Pending codes, if occur multiple times, depending on the hard counter parameter set, can and often do turn into hard codes. Although hard codes can be "reset" momentarily with OBD-II or SD-2/3 software, until the fault (presuming real) is corrected, will continue to trip codes.

But, one thing's for certain; when you power down the car, adaptive and readiness states are lost. There's much more to your question and my answer...

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post #12 of 22 Old 05-08-2015, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Dave,


When you said "The number one item, without fail, that damages or destroys the ECU (any ECU) is jump starting and/or starting the car with a partially charge battery.", what happens? Why does this damage an ECU?
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post #13 of 22 Old 05-08-2015, 01:05 PM
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Simply stated, these devices just weren't designed/have adequate protection against the potential voltage/current spikes and or excessive AC content from some of the booster chargers available.

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post #14 of 22 Old 05-08-2015, 01:30 PM
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David- Yup, for some ECUs exactly the same thing as a lightning strike to household electrical systems and appliances without surge protection.

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post #15 of 22 Old 05-11-2015, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Simply stated, these devices just weren't designed/have adequate protection against the potential voltage/current spikes and or excessive AC content from some of the booster chargers available.



So if you're caught somewhere with a low or dead battery in any car newer than a '96 (let alone a 355), what should you do? Jump start only?
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post #16 of 22 Old 05-11-2015, 11:34 AM
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post #17 of 22 Old 05-11-2015, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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NO - never jump start a 355...


Dave,


When I say "jump start", I mean get rolling a bit with the car in low gear and the key on, then let the clutch out to turn the engine over. Why would this harm a 355? I've done this many times over the years with other stick shift cars, including a late model BMW with ECUs a year ago, all without any problems including the Bimmer.
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post #18 of 22 Old 05-11-2015, 11:52 AM
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Dave,


When I say "jump start", I mean get rolling a bit with the car in low gear and the key on, then let the clutch out to turn the engine over. Why would this harm a 355? I've done this many times over the years with other stick shift cars, including a late model BMW with ECUs a year ago, all without any problems including the Bimmer.

That's called a push start in my area. I jump start is done using "jumper cables" connected to another car. I see no issue with a push start aside from it being a really neat trick in an F1

It might also be a neat trick getting the immobilizer off (you would need some battery power)
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post #19 of 22 Old 05-11-2015, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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That's called a push start in my area. I jump start is done using "jumper cables" connected to another car. I see no issue with a push start aside from it being a really neat trick in an F1

It might also be a neat trick getting the immobilizer off (you would need some battery power)


Yeah, an F1 would be difficult. Fortunately mine is a standard stick shift. But I hope I never have this problem, just wanted to be clear what the consequences were. You're right about the battery. There would have to be just enough to hear the beep and for it to reset. Hadn't thought about that. Thanks Dave.
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post #20 of 22 Old 12-27-2016, 01:30 PM
 
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So other than a push start if you find yourself with a dead battery what do you do? Is the only option buying a new battery?
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