F355 header failure right side.. - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 40 Old 04-29-2015, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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header failure right side..

Confirmed it today with smoke..ugh. Going to have to decide today which header i want to use. Leaning towards Ricambi but not sure the quality. I want headers in a clam shell they are the only option ready to go. I also need the part number for the snapon wrench that makes this easier..anyone have it?
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post #2 of 40 Old 04-29-2015, 05:38 PM
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Randy, see page 18, post 357

http://www.ferrarilife.com/forums/pr...5-f355-18.html

Note, my nuts where 12 mm AF but a friends where 13. I just went in garage and check my new nuts and they are 13.

Also, while it is doable to change headers with the engine in, it's not going to be fun.
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post #3 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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Pulling the engine to change them would be less fun....and it has to be done. I can't let it go until next major
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post #4 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 05:03 AM
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Pulling the engine to change them would be less fun....and it has to be done. I can't let it go until next major

I was not suggesting you let them go. Just letting you know that removing them with the motor out is fun enough

On my 95, I was barely able to get one side out of the sub frame. I've read that often a motor mount bolt must be removed to jack up the motor to get enough clearance.
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post #5 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 06:14 AM
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If you pull the half shafts out, after taking the main cats etc. out, you can wiggle them out carefully. Pulling the motor mount bolts so you can lift the engine an inch or two does help also.


I've installed the rebuilt headers that Ricambi offers. The ones I had were assembled well. I have heard that some sets have had small pin holes in the welds though. I would take the time to pressure test/smoke test them before installation and do your best to make sure they won't be leaky from the start.


If you do go with a Fabspeed header, my suggestion is to order them bare and source your own coating vendor. The quality of product and thoughtfulness of application makes a big difference in effectiveness and longevity. I've had manifolds coated through my own sources and have found it to reduce engine bay temps over the factory shielding design, when done very well.


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post #6 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave rocks View Post
I was not suggesting you let them go. Just letting you know that removing them with the motor out is fun enough

On my 95, I was barely able to get one side out of the sub frame. I've read that often a motor mount bolt must be removed to jack up the motor to get enough clearance.
I knew you werent suggesting that Dave. I was wondering if that was worded wrong and might seem like I was being a Phallus. Its like everything with this car seems to be so many different opinions..is it safe,quality, keep the same sound. I really want to get this done quickly so I can get back to driving...
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post #7 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
I knew you werent suggesting that Dave. I was wondering if that was worded wrong and might seem like I was being a Phallus. Its like everything with this car seems to be so many different opinions..is it safe,quality, keep the same sound. I really want to get this done quickly so I can get back to driving...
I'm glad I have a lift - I would not want to do this job on jack stands (although the lift only makes stuff easier, not always required)
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post #8 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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I'm glad I have a lift - I would not want to do this job on jack stands (although the lift only makes stuff easier, not always required)
I have a lift. If I didnt I would pay someone else and save the headache. Ricambi headers are made with is T304 SS is this adequate?
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post #9 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 07:21 AM
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Randy,

To be honest, I really wanted to get headers from Stainless Steel Headers .com. I still plan to discuss this with the new owners. IMO, the ones they made for Jimmy are the best I've ever seen and in the clam shell too!

If I could not get those, I would probably get new OEM headers. There is rumor (cannot confirm or deny) that they made an improvement.

I like much of what Ricambi offers but I don't care for the headers. That is no shot to them, it is just my opinion based on what I've seen.

For me, I do want something that matches OEM as close as possible so I would not even consider Fab speed or others alike.
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post #10 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 08:54 AM
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OEM in appearance; understood. OEM in terms of durability and long term reliability; pass. The rebuilt ones that Ricambi sells hold up quite nicely.

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Last edited by David @ FluentInFerrari; 04-30-2015 at 09:03 AM.
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post #11 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 09:29 AM
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OEM in appearance; understood.
Yes, that is what I meant.
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post #12 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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I called Zack at GP Headers (formally stainless headers) he said 8 weeks min or I would go with him...8-10 weeks is most of the driving time here.
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post #13 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
I called Zack at GP Headers (formally stainless headers) he said 8 weeks min or I would go with him...8-10 weeks is most of the driving time here.
Yeah, that's not very quick....However, it might take 8-10 weeks to remove your old one

Kidding....
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post #14 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 12:12 PM
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Can the damaged header be welded? Could hold until you decide on a permanent fix. Plus then you get the pleasure of removing it twice. Second time will go much more quickly, most likely.

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post #15 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 01:01 PM
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Terry, usually once it's realized that the factory headers need replacement, the tubes are so badly deformed and the metal is so fatigued, patching is near impossible. That's after you realize they've burned up where they pipes lay over one another, making an easy patch job impossible.


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post #16 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Terry I read that the OEM header tube walls are so thin it's difficult to weld and even if was the headers will fail some place else. I appreciate you wanting me to have all that fun. I'll pass. I'm sure my fun meter will be pegged all weekend lol
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post #17 of 40 Old 04-30-2015, 05:09 PM
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Josh, Randy- Another good idea shot down by the real world.

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post #18 of 40 Old 05-01-2015, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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I need the wrench! 6 hours today and I'm down to just the headers. All the bottom nuts are off. I see now why people say buy the wrench lol. It took awhile but I was going slow and learning a lot along the way. I could most likely get the top nuts but I don't want to put to much tension on them with a swivel hitting the nut from a weird angle. Thanks for all the support guys I'm having a blast and couldn't do it without you.
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post #19 of 40 Old 05-01-2015, 04:15 PM
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post #20 of 40 Old 05-01-2015, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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You don't realize why you need it. Until you see why. I wonder other than a good guess how will you be sure you have tightened all the nuts equally? On my 72 nova you just cranked them down. Guess it's the same here. Would hate to snap off a stud. Holy $;it that would suck
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