F355 Troubleshooting - High Oil Pressure - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
 
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Troubleshooting - High Oil Pressure

First time posting here. Been part of another forum, but all threads seem to turn to crap...Anyway, I've had my 1995 355 Spider for about 4 months now, and loving every minute of it!

Last month I notice my oil pressure gauge is within range of the 140 mark when cruising (3K-4K rpm). At idle the gauge is usually somewhere between the 60-70 mark. This at operating temp with the oil hot.

my steps so far (with no change to gauge reading):
1. pull dash/gauge cluster to make sure all connections are tight
2. changed oil & filter
3. clean connectors on sending unit

Car seems to be running beautifully with no apparent issues (at the moment). All other gauges are within spec at operating temps.

Thoughts or ideas?

I'm thinking my next step is to check the pressure relief valve to make sure it's not stuck...Good idea? Bad Idea?

Do I need to drain the oil prior to pulling the pressure relief valve? I'm assuming there shouldn't be any issues if I pull/inspect, and replace exactly as it was.

Advice on any of the above would be much appreciated!

Thanks!
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post #2 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 08:47 AM
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Although the sender is a known problem area, I would simply measure the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Simple, easy and no drama... Once the actual oil pressure is known, then and only then, can repairs commence.

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post #3 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 08:48 AM
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I've experienced similar readings after an oil change. Normally, my 98 is at 70 when cruising though.

too bad the 95 is not OBDII, you could connect a real time monitor and see what is being delivered to the ECU. Maybe change the sending unit?
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post #4 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanks for the quick responses!..

for the mechanical gauge, i simply remove the sending unit and screw the mechanical gauge in it's place?

Thanks again!
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post #5 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 10:38 AM
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Yes.
The thread size for the sender is M18x1.5mm. As this is not the most common size, you may need to reach out to your local shop for help.

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post #6 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 10:57 AM
 
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Mine did the exact same thing and has a new sending unit. I pulled dash. Removed the small nuts on all the gauges. Cleaned contact points with a pencil eraser and contact cleaner replaced nuts and tightend really tight. Same to all wire connection points. Problem solved. First time I did it inwasnt patient enough. Had to go back and do it over. All is fine now
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post #7 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 11:55 AM
 
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My pressure gauge was doing crazy things. Real high....then zero. I pulled the dash cluster and jiggled on the posts with the car running. On one post, if I turned it the gauge would "adjust" and go from zero to 140. I found a sweet spot in the middle, that corresponds to what normal would be based on the manual. One day, I will get around to pulling the dash out and figuring out what needs to be fixed if it acts up again.
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post #8 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 01:05 PM
 
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my guess is that its in the gauge also
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post #9 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 06:20 PM
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Commonly a symptom of a bad sender.

If you are going to tell someone how to remove a bolt you should at least know which way to turn the wrench.
85 308 GTB QV red/tan (original owner)
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post #10 of 39 Old 04-06-2015, 06:47 PM
 
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Usually with a bad sending unit you get nothing
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post #11 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janders82 View Post
Last month I notice my oil pressure gauge is within range of the 140 mark when cruising (3K-4K rpm). At idle the gauge is usually somewhere between the 60-70 mark. This at operating temp with the oil hot.

my steps so far (with no change to gauge reading):
1. pull dash/gauge cluster to make sure all connections are tight
2. changed oil & filter
3. clean connectors on sending unit


Please note the steps taken so far with no result. I'll say it again, the symptom, over all high pressure, is common with a sender on the way out.

If you are going to tell someone how to remove a bolt you should at least know which way to turn the wrench.
85 308 GTB QV red/tan (original owner)
95 F355 Spider SwatersBlu/tan
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post #12 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 03:06 PM
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Randy- Baloney. Do not pass out bad advice. High oil pressure from bad senders in Ferraris is common.

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post #13 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 04:45 PM
 
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Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
Randy- Baloney. Do not pass out bad advice. High oil pressure from bad senders in Ferraris is common.
Bad senders can send a false reading ..I never disputed that...The smart way to troubleshoot is from the gauges back. Someone people on the other forum gave me that advise and I didnt listen. Now I have a new sending unit in my car and a good one on the shelf. Cleaning the contacts and tightening up the nuts on the back of the gauges like me and Ernie both suggested is never bad advice....when I was troubleshooting mine yes I found instances where the sending unit was bad..most of the time I found that people said the gauge didnt work at all once the sender went bad...But (the reason I was told to start from the gauge back) I found its most likely a problem a problem with the gauge or the contact points. The nuts just coming loose can send some crazy readings. I have no idea why you would think its bad advice to check and clean all electrical connectors before going to the next step which is usually switching out parts (I mean I do know why but cant openly say on this forum) This might not be the case with his...but its still the smartest way to troubleshoot.

Last edited by shootfighter65; 04-07-2015 at 04:58 PM.
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post #14 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
Randy- Baloney. Do not pass out bad advice. High oil pressure from bad senders in Ferraris is common.
Terry, I have nothing but respect for you but must say this reply is a bit abrasive. Randy has been on good behavior and contributing to the forum positively, let's all embrass that.

My best,, Dave
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post #15 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 07:19 PM
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Dave- Yup, you are right. Sorry Randy.

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post #16 of 39 Old 04-07-2015, 07:38 PM
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Dave- Yup, you are right. Sorry Randy.
You are a class act, Terry. Thank you
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post #17 of 39 Old 04-08-2015, 03:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
Bad senders can send a false reading ..I never disputed that...The smart way to troubleshoot is from the gauges back. Someone people on the other forum gave me that advise and I didnt listen. Now I have a new sending unit in my car and a good one on the shelf. Cleaning the contacts and tightening up the nuts on the back of the gauges like me and Ernie both suggested is never bad advice....when I was troubleshooting mine yes I found instances where the sending unit was bad..most of the time I found that people said the gauge didnt work at all once the sender went bad...But (the reason I was told to start from the gauge back) I found its most likely a problem a problem with the gauge or the contact points. The nuts just coming loose can send some crazy readings. I have no idea why you would think its bad advice to check and clean all electrical connectors before going to the next step which is usually switching out parts (I mean I do know why but cant openly say on this forum) This might not be the case with his...but its still the smartest way to troubleshoot.


Randy, no problem with what you are saying, but it appeared that you did not read the initial post where it was said that those checks had already been made. That's why I made my second post.


And FWIW, the easiest way to check the gage and wiring is to pull the signal wire off the sending unit and replace it with various resistors and observe how the gage reacts.

If you are going to tell someone how to remove a bolt you should at least know which way to turn the wrench.
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Last edited by john85QV; 04-08-2015 at 03:39 AM.
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post #18 of 39 Old 04-08-2015, 03:49 AM
 
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Originally Posted by john85QV View Post
Randy, no problem with what you are saying, but it appeared that you did not read the initial post where it was said that those checks had already been made. That's why I made my second post.


And FWIW, the easiest way to check the gage and wiring is to pull the signal wire off the sending unit and replace it with various resistors and observe how the gage reacts.
Yeah I missed that.... Mine pegged all the way to the right and dropped back to 120 or something like that at idle. I know the car can only make so much oil pressure so I knew it wasnt a bad a bad pump. I wish I could remember where my old sending unit was I would send it so could use it to trouble shoot your car.....There not expensive thank god. Good luck keep us posted
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post #19 of 39 Old 04-08-2015, 03:50 AM
 
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You are a class act, Terry. Thank you
I agree with David sir....
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post #20 of 39 Old 04-08-2015, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootfighter65 View Post
Yeah I missed that.... Mine pegged all the way to the right and dropped back to 120 or something like that at idle. I know the car can only make so much oil pressure so I knew it wasnt a bad a bad pump. I wish I could remember where my old sending unit was I would send it so could use it to trouble shoot your car.....There not expensive thank god. Good luck keep us posted
I welcome and appreciate ALL advice, so thanks for the help!

I'm probably going to go ahead and buy a new sender. Figure even if it's not bad, it will probably need to be replaced in the near future anyway. Ricambi the best place to order the sender from?

If not the sender, I'm turning my attention to the pressure relief valve.

Can anyone tell me if I can pull the pressure relief without draining the oil? It's my assumption that I won't alter anything as long as I put it back in place exactly as it were...

Thanks again!
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