F355 F-355 wont start (or even crank). - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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F-355 wont start (or even crank).

So...back to the forums for some much needed assistance, advice and relative comfort as I am lost in the sea of Maranello, with one oar left and a ripped sail...It's almost embarrassing to post all of my F-issues here, but I suppose now is when I need assistance the most. I guess I am one of those owners who wound up with the F 355 nightmare story.

Here's my issues. Quite a list.

First: I am not sure if these problems are related, but here goes. This next paragraph details how I hooked up the back-up camera and monitor (wirelss, and independently wired, and not connected to each other except via wireless signal.)

I installed the back up camera. Problem: When I turn on/off the running lights, the motor skips a beat. When I open or close the engine cover, it does the same thing. The wireless camera is mounted to the yellow wire on the rear-right running lamp (outermost lamp). I grounded it to the black. Because of the problem with the running lights, I rewired the ground to a screw that holds some hoses...seemed like a safe spot since it wasn't electrical-related ...same issue remains.
The wireless monitor WAS wired directly to the AC fuse, and grounded to the fuse box (there is a screw on the passenger fuse box) but I rewired all of that to the Alpine stereo (ground and hot wire.) I have a toggle switch for the monitor that is grounded to the bottom of the ashtray-electronics (black wire). At one point when I turned on the running lights, the car shut OFF. Restarted and the same thing. It seems like everything is grounded but the car doesn't like the extra load on the running lights? Maybe it's a ground problem even though I have re-grounded both systems to different areas. I'm lost on this.

Next: To solve a persistent stalling issue when the fan kicks on....I isolated the top air duct with duct tape and carbon fiber tape, so It pulls air from the door-vent mostly, instead of the hot-air blowback from the fan. It totally solved the stalling issue, and I was thrilled. THRILLED!!!! FINALLY!!!!!

What happened next was that the car was hesitating / fluttering upon acceleration. I pulled into a convenience store, shut the car off to look at my new vent, thinking something had changed, but the duct mod looked just like I left it: sturdy.

The check engine light turned on as I parked. I shut the car off...when I tried to restart it, it simply would not crank. I shut the battery on and off, and I have full battery power (lights, dash lights etc). It wont crank. I can hear the fuel pump I think....I know that sound. I checked all of the fuses...and found a blown air-pump fuse and replaced it. Still no crank...I had AAA flatbed it to a friend's house. There it sits.

The next day I looked in the engine bay and saw insulation packing all over the left side. I have a cracked manifold now too.

Car wont crank.
Blown manifold
Electrical issues .

I am out of cash, pretty much. I just gave Ferrari 13K for belts, radiator, tires, alignment, axle boots, AC system update, main oil line, compression test, manifold inspection (said they are fine), exhaust install, etc etc.

I don't know what to do...send the car back to get a bill I can't pay as of right now? I am stuck and need to hopefully figure SOME of this out on my own.

How much is header-repair, roughly?
Did I screw up the car's electrical system some how?
Why would the throttle hesitate? Blown header making a weird air-fuel mixture?
Is it bad to isolate the top duct? The car seemed to run great after the mod and 40 miles. It never dogged-out on me once when the fan kicked on.
What should I check to get the car started?

Thanks...this forum has been great. Where should I start? Any advice or feedback?

The camera seemed like a simple thing to install. Perhaps not....wonder why it is making the car unhappy?
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 02:41 PM
 
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F-355 wont start (or even crank).

Trade it in on a trouble free, dependable 348! Enjoy the drama free driving. Start drive , smile , enjoy! I dont think a 355 is a good car if you dont have very deep pockets in regards to service and repair, imo.

Last edited by 348bubba; 04-20-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 348bubba View Post
Trade it in on a trouble free, dependable 348! Enjoy the drama free driving. Start drive , smile , enjoy! I dont think a 355 is a good car if you dont have very deep pockets in regards to service and repair, imo.

I love the 348, but I am in for the long haul with my F 355.
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ready321now View Post
I don't know what to do...send the car back to get a bill I can't pay as of right now? I am stuck and need to hopefully figure SOME of this out on my own.
These are not the easiest cars to sort out. They have a well-deserved reputation of being "not quite ready for prime time." As I said before, take it back to the Dealer. I suspect that some of these problems may be due to the service work done. A shop with any sort of integrity will stand behind their work and at minimum, give you an overview/preliminary diagnosis off what's wrong.

There are no quick repairs or easy solutions; just good old fashioned diagnostic work. If you've got a code reader or an SD2 at your disposal, those tools will give you a rudimentary starting point, else just bring it back...

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post #5 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 05:20 PM
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Ready123now, sorry to hear your issues.

My very first F car was a 1997 Berlinetta manual. I was a bit hesitant to buy because I had virtually zero knowledge of F cars at the time, but my trusted broker friend gave me the necessary push and he stood behind his words.

I owned for like three years and put decent mileage with hardly any issues to mention of.

Back to your issues, David, our guru, has spoken. Take heed of his advice.

If you wish to keep her for the long haul, then it is imperative that you sort of the problems properly at a trusted shop, which is key ingredient for an enjoyable car ownership.

If you tell us more about yourself, like where you are, maybe someone can recommend a trusted shop nearby.


Good luck with the solutions.

w/ smiles
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-20-2014, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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I live In central jersey and have in independent shop nearby. Even Tho ferrari is a lot more expensive I do feel more comfortable bringing it there because they will probably warranty the work better.
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-21-2014, 12:21 PM
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Undo everything you've changed and see if that corrects some of the issues.
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-21-2014, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Undo everything you've changed and see if that corrects some of the issues.
I undid the camera and monitor, and to no avail. Thank you though.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-22-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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It was the connector to the starter motor....the slip-on clip was broken. An easy fix....but I bought an ODB2 unit and I have the following codes:
1448
1445

and 0140 but that was a blown fuse for the air-pump.

Any feedback on the codes? I have a CEL now, and an SDL present at start-up that always goes away after warm up. I also have a cracked LH manifold now....would that throw a CEL?

Thanks guys...-Brian
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-22-2014, 06:30 PM
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Your P1445 and P1448 codes and your SDL light are interconnected. You're not done with repairing that system just yet. You need to (or have the dealer that serviced the car) check the exhaust temp readings and figure out if the bypass valve circuit isn't working right or if you need a new thermocouple or thermocouple ecu.

Your cracked exhaust manifold is going to make doing anything with the car more difficult. If you're lucky, you'll get it replaced before sucking atmospheric air into the manifold causes greater ie: more expensive issues later on.

The exhaust system on your car needs a thorough going over, otherwise you'll be posting here a lot. As with anything, you will continually battle small issues until the entire system is on par.

The air pump is in a position where it's subject to moisture and road grime which takes it toll on the electric motor. They begin to age, build up resistance, draw excessive amperage and blow the fuse. DO NOT put a higher rated fuse int he circuit. Replace the air pump.


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post #11 of 15 Old 04-22-2014, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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[TE=ECSofVirgconnect313]Your P1445 and P1448 codes and your SDL light are interconnected. You're not done with repairing that system just yet. You need to (or have the dealer that serviced the car) check the exhaust temp readings and figure out if the bypass valve circuit isn't working right or if you need a new thermocouple or thermocouple ecu.

Your cracked exhaust manifold is going to make doing anything with the car more difficult. If you're lucky, you'll get it replaced before sucking atmospheric air into the manifold causes greater ie: more expensive issues later on.

The exhaust system on your car needs a thorough going over, otherwise you'll be posting here a lot. As with anything, you will continually battle small issues until the entire system is on par.

The air pump is in a position where it's subject to moisture and road grime which takes it toll on the electric motor. They begin to age, build up resistance, draw excessive amperage and blow the fuse. DO NOT put a higher rated fuse int he circuit. Replace the air pump.[/QUOTE]

You are always so helpful. Wish your shop was closer to me. I would be a loyal customer. So, I have a feeling that the thermo coupler ECU connection comes and goes because the faults are intermittent. I think its due to a bad connection rather than a bad catalytic converter. I found that one of the ECU's is actually green but it's the one on the left hand side of the engine bay. on the other side of the engine bay there are two ECU's. Which one of those connects to the catalytic converter ..aNd which one connects to the exhaust bypass valve?
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post #12 of 15 Old 04-23-2014, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David @ FluentInFerrari View Post
These are not the easiest cars to sort out. They have a well-deserved reputation of being "not quite ready for prime time." As I said before, take it back to the Dealer. I suspect that some of these problems may be due to the service work done. A shop with any sort of integrity will stand behind their work and at minimum, give you an overview/preliminary diagnosis off what's wrong.

There are no quick repairs or easy solutions; just good old fashioned diagnostic work. If you've got a code reader or an SD2 at your disposal, those tools will give you a rudimentary starting point, else just bring it back...
Thank you.I bought a code reader and posted my codes. Also, I spoke to Ferrari of Long Island again today. I suppose I am "stuck"since I don't have the money for headers right now, so I don't want to have to send it up to them without the ability to pay the bill. I suppose what I have to do is buy the manifolds (Nouvalari,), and then send the car back to Ferrari to take care of the valve-cover gasket leak (after the recent engine-ouit service), which they are happy to do for free. As far as installing the new manifolds I will drop-ship to them and am waiting for a labor quote from them. My repairs and upgrades have obviously quickly out-run my budget. I just didn't think I would have to do so much so quickly. I expected to get some years out of the manifolds....instead I got 1500 miles. This car is....my dream car, but is quickly becoming the costly queen. If only I had the money of a King! Between the radiator, main oil line, and manifolds, the cost for reapair...$7000. Thast doesn't include the engine out, axle boots, tires, alignment etc.
So...time to bite the bullet and save the cash.

it looks like the F 355 is parked indefinitely. I highly doubt they will install them for free, even though I have already handed a lot of money over.

I'll be back though. Just a matter of time!
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post #13 of 15 Old 04-23-2014, 05:24 PM
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The ECU mounted vertically on the bottom right connects to the by pas valve pipe and the ECU mounted horizontally connects to the RH primary catalyst. As Brian had mentioned before, without some testing equipment to read the EGT's and thermocouple outputs it's a bit tricky to diagnose accurately, aside from throwing parts at it until you get a result.
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post #14 of 15 Old 04-23-2014, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Bought some electrical contact cleaner. .going to spray all of the ECU connections and start there. Noticed some hoses or wires in close contact with the RH cat connections.. move those to the side so the connector doesn't have pressure on it. Might switch the connections after I do my manifolds. I was wondering......which connections would I swap to help isolate the source of the codes?
Also...if anyone has the time to explain it...what damage would happen to the car if driving with a cracked header? I suppose I put 20 miles total on it before I knew it was cracked. Did I do any damage?
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post #15 of 15 Old 04-24-2014, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, here goes, now that I am driveable again, I have some remaining questions. Not that I expect anyone to answer ALL of them...

1.What do you guys think about my CEL/SDL issues? I wonder if it is the connections. Since the SDL is intermittent, would that be the same if the thermocouple itself was bad? I guess I am picturing a bad thermo to be bad all the time, as opposed to intermittent arrival of the SDL, where the connectioons flex and connect /disconnect with heat. In any case I am going to start with contact cleaner.

2. For replacement manifolds..I was thinking of Nouvalari. Will prob go with Nouvalari since they are 4/2/1 like the factory design, and are more affordable. BUT....what is the issue with coating both the inside and outside of the manifold? Isn't that supposed to be bad? Searched but couldn't find info.

3. Starting/ Driving the car with the manifold issue: Horrible idea or not to worry? What happens with the mixture that damages the car?

4. Will doing an ECU reset do anything for the CEL/ SDL? Or should I leave it be... so the codes don't reset and disappear for the OBD 2?

5. Why would my car hesitate/stumble upon acceleration? Can the cracked header make the car do this? Perhaps it was the back-up camera. At the time, the heat, fog lights, headlights, stereo and camera/ monitor were all on. I thought it was a voltage issue. Maybe its an air/ fuel issue? Or maybe the loose starter connection could cause issues with the electrical system? Baffled.Would /could that loose connection to the starter cause an issue that would make the car hesitate/ flutter upon acceleration?
Thanks in advance...

So many things to sort, but there's nothing like a 355.

-Brian
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