I may be of some help here. I have a well known parts pal who told me the racks at Ferrparts are the same as the ones at Superformance even though the Superformance ones are half the price. I cannot say for sure but almost certain he said they were made in Europe.
I just went through a long complicated rack rebuild. I paid quite a bit of money have mine rebuilt against my own best judgement as I wanted the original plastic bushing which I could not source. I was not happy with the rebuilt rack (it was way too tight) and ended up re-building it myself. Some of you guys are expert mechanics here so this should be a piece of cake.
All you need to do this are a few simple tools and some basic instructions.
These are the same racks on the original Austin Mini, but longer and the EXACT same as on a Pantera. They were made by Cam Gear in the UK and are NLA. After some much needed help from some friends who have done many of these it is a very simple job. I also replaced the new original bushing with a bronze one from: Suspension & Chassis 1045 Rack Bushing
The picture here is not what it looked like and I bought several of these from different sources, so I could experiment a bit, but this place had the one that fit the best! The consensus was the plastic one wears out in about 10K miles and the bronze one wears out at about 40-50K. I know on you tube some guy takes out a regular 308 rack in 5 minutes but on the GT4 it is more like 5 days. There are two round headed allen bolts that no tool I could find would remove them as they are inside the frame and ended up carefully removing each one slowly.
The tools are:
JH Williams O-471-3/4 to 2-Inch Adjustable Pin Spanner Wrench, JH Williams O-471-3/4 to 2-Inch Adjustable Pin Spanner Wrench - Amazon.com
a Armstrong 34-305 1-1/4-3-Inch Adjustable Hook Spanner Wrench, Armstrong 34-305 1-1/4-3-Inch Adjustable Hook Spanner Wrench - Amazon.com
I used CRC SL3331 Extreme Pressure Engine Assembly Lube, 10 Wt Oz, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but if I was to do it over again I would use the Redline CV joint grease. They originally came with fluid grease but the Cam Gear guys who my friend contacted suggested a 0 weight grease as a better alternative. I think the Redline would be even better as all the applications in the rack are under pressure and a grease that would hang on to would work the best. It also has specs that are better, I have used it allot, but that topic could be a whole other thread! Amazon.com: Red Line 80402 Synthetic Grease: Automotive
Here are a few websites that I used one from an old friend who really helped me out, and the other from a Pantera expert who has done many rebuilds: Steering - Ferrari - a set on Flickr Pantera Steering Rack
I opted for the newer style GT4 rack mounts and I sure wish I knew then what I know now. I would have rebuilt it myself and kept the old style mounts, as both were a pain to get in or out.
A few tips; The bushing once driven in gets a bit tighter so I had to remove it and very carefully hone the bushing with a very small brake hone to get it just right. I bought a few bushings because i knew this would happen. I ended up selling the unused ones on ebay. There is a jam nut style locking collar that once the tie rod is lubed and adjusted is peened down on both sides, this is critical and not forgiving and there are no extra part available so you just have one shot at this. It took quite a few ground down punches to get the locking collar un-peened. I also scotch brited the rack shaft. Anyway all the instruction are above and its not hard to do.
I even bought another one on ebay I am playing with and will rebuild it and save it with all my other extra parts.
If anyone needs any help I would be more than happy to add more tips especially on what not to do…..
If you have a GT4 great time to do your lower valance, especially if you are into S&M as it is riveted on and most rivets need to be hand drilled out from areas you cannot see! HAAA