F355 warm up time - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-22-2011, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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warm up time

What is your standard warm up time from a cold start? Do you "do anything special" to ensure best wear?

Thanks, Eddie
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post #2 of 18 Old 10-22-2011, 04:53 PM
 
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Hi Eddie, it will depend on outside temperature. If it's warm you need a couple of minutes. If you live in colder weather it will take longer .
Let me know at what temperatures.
Thank you
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-22-2011, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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I live in Houston. 80's right now.

Is it basically a "up to normal" operating temp, then drive?

I thought I read somewhere that it is important to let it warm up (which I don't think we do much anymore on more current automobiles).

Thank you,
Eddie
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-22-2011, 09:20 PM
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Eddie- Start the car and wait for it to come off high idle, then drive gently and do not exceed 4000 rpm until the oil temperature reaches 158 degrees or so. Warming up cars while stationary is a waste of gasoline and getting them moving warms up all the parts, not just engine parts, at the same time.

Just looked and some F355s have no oil temperature gauge? If you have an F355 with no oil temperature gauge, guess you use water temperature or oil pressure dropping.

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Last edited by tazandjan; 10-22-2011 at 09:27 PM.
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-22-2011, 10:18 PM
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Eddie, I warmup my 550 basically as Taz has suggested, however I keep a very close eye on oil pressure and try not to let it get over 100 psi during the warmup. This means keeping the engine below 2500 or so, and granny shifting from 1st to 3rd, skipping 2nd, which doesn't like cold gearbox oil.

According to Sheehan, 550's were known to overpressure their oil filters during cold warmups from revving too soon.

I'm running 5W-40 Redline - I can't imagine how high the cold oil pressure would go if it were 10W or higher.

'99 550, Rosso Corsa / Nero, S/N:114654, Assy: 31836, Engine: 52084

High mileage, low compression, and missing on a few cylinders.....just like my cars.

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post #6 of 18 Old 10-23-2011, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, great info.
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-23-2011, 11:58 AM
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-23-2011, 03:02 PM
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As per below, I don't move them until they settle off the high idle and the water temp gauge has begun to move. Then it is under 3000 rpms until both oil and water temps are around 80 degrees C.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-23-2011, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect, thanks guys.

Eddie
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-26-2011, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxEddie1111 View Post
Perfect, thanks guys.

Eddie
Yes, thanks. I was about to ask the same question since the weather's turning colder here at the base of the Rockies. Our typical weather situation this time of year in Colorado consists of sub-freezing nights and fairly mild, sunny days. It's hard to resist the urge to not allow sufficient warm-up time in the morning under such conditions, so the advice here is very welcome.

Jim
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post #11 of 18 Old 11-26-2011, 09:54 PM
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Letting most cars idle more than a minute cold is not good. Lots of blow-by getting past the rings. The longer it takes to warm up, the more blow-by you get contaminating the oil. Start it up, let the pressures come up and drive it slow and gentle till it comes up to temp.

I have a friend and his wife that both start their cars and go back inside to finish coffee etc while the car warms up. Both of the cars needed to have the pan removed to clean the gunk from the oil pump pickup screen and the rest of the motors were gunked up too.

My understanding is the problem is worse with the unleaded gas and backpressure from cats and wasn't a big problem in the good old days.

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post #12 of 18 Old 11-27-2011, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KKRace View Post
Letting most cars idle more than a minute cold is not good. Lots of blow-by getting past the rings. The longer it takes to warm up, the more blow-by you get contaminating the oil. Start it up, let the pressures come up and drive it slow and gentle till it comes up to temp.

I have a friend and his wife that both start their cars and go back inside to finish coffee etc while the car warms up. Both of the cars needed to have the pan removed to clean the gunk from the oil pump pickup screen and the rest of the motors were gunked up too.

My understanding is the problem is worse with the unleaded gas and backpressure from cats and wasn't a big problem in the good old days.
The manual for my bmw specificaly states not to let it sit at idle and warm up for this very reason. The exhaust is very acidic when cold and takes a lot longer to warm up if just left idling. It states to drive normaly but keep rpms under 3k until the temp gauge moves. The only time I let it sit and idle is if I have to defrost the windows enough to see. Don't have that issue with the ferrari... If your cold oil pressure is too high, use a 0w oil.
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post #13 of 18 Old 11-27-2011, 10:06 AM
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I usually let mine warm up until the oil temp gauge is off the peg.

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post #14 of 18 Old 12-01-2011, 01:24 PM
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Before leaving, you should warm up your engine at least up to this :

F1 Engine Break In (ending is crazy!) - YouTube

Then, you're good to go
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post #15 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 06:20 AM
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I tend to follow a similar pattern with mine. Here in NC we're getting similar weather to those out west, cold morning and daytime temps up in the comfy level.

I turn it on and let it warm up for a couple of minutes to get the gauges moving off the pegs. Then I give it a nice slow drive around the block and out onto the main roads, shifting around 3000 RPMs. Sometimes I have to go easy on the shifting until it warms up as the gearbox locks me out of 2nd.
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post #16 of 18 Old 12-21-2011, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefVan View Post
Before leaving, you should warm up your engine at least up to this :

F1 Engine Break In (ending is crazy!) - YouTube

Then, you're good to go
17,000 RPM's - Stef looking forward to the build thread
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post #17 of 18 Old 01-09-2012, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
Eddie- Start the car and wait for it to come off high idle, then drive gently and do not exceed 4000 rpm until the oil temperature reaches 158 degrees or so. Warming up cars while stationary is a waste of gasoline and getting them moving warms up all the parts, not just engine parts, at the same time.

Just looked and some F355s have no oil temperature gauge? If you have an F355 with no oil temperature gauge, guess you use water temperature or oil pressure dropping.
Yes indeed, I learned something today - the F1 F355s have no Oil Temp gauge. The Oil Pressure gauge is moved from the binnacle to the center console (above stereo) and replaced by the Gear Indicator. The 3 Pedal F355s all have Oil Temp gauge (right most gauge above the stereo).

I usually fire mine up, start driving right away (very gently) and don't exceed 4,000 rpm until my Oil Temp is beyond the 2nd bold hash mark (probably about what Taz suggests but I never paid much attention to the actual reading).
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post #18 of 18 Old 01-09-2012, 07:02 PM
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Rick- I can crunch the numbers if you like, but the second hash mark is generally 158 F, plenty warm.

Taz
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