I put the care to a garage for a smal maintenance oil, oil filter, airfilter,... when i bought it, but i didn't ask what kind of oil they put in. I only know what the oil is on the gearbox (Redline).
well, that leaves many questions: Look at the invoice or call them and find out what #'s were involved to include qts. WHEN, again, was this done?
Doesn't seem to be an issue, BUT you did say OVER MAX. so WHEN seems suspect.
I use Redline only, and for the engine 5-40. Many good ones to choose, but I like RL.
Don't know what filter, but that could be a factor. again, if changed couple days ago...might be catching up> BTW NOT sure this is a major deal...drain some oil and drive it. and check
A sensor is not unusual to go out on a 348. But the > MAX is not good. IF you must drain the oil a bit, make sure the plug is put on correctly AND not leaking. I've seen a stripped one and it'll get into the clutch area and that's expensive. Take off about a quart, and you'll probably be just above MIN. AFTER a good, hot drive, while engine is still running take out dip, wipe, put back in, look, add accordingly.
Can do the same routine right after engine shutoff if you wait no longer than 30 seconds or so. Oil will slip from stick otherwise and reading is difficult.
IF oil is Dark[ish] might be time for a change. Should be clear-like.
Make sure to enter the correct oil for region, but generally a 5-40 [now, but originally a 0-50 but not truly made any longer] will suffice. You can mix synth with fossil types as in the US it's the #'s that matter.
WARMING your oil before going above 3,000 RPM is very important. Take me about 15-20 min. I always follow that rule. When temp, press are right I can drive it, but still take is moderately until I KNOW good to go.
In extreem situations it is better to add a near number oil to a really low MIN mark if no other source is available. BUT keep the numbers within range especially the weight, and within 5 degrees for the first number, IMO. I have only done this when little or no other choice but that is so rare I wouldn't speak otherwise...and years ago.
I know many will flog me for this, but better than a burned engine, which unless pushing its limits doesn't really happen that easily...OIL is blood to this engine...keep it as pure and good as possible. Too much and press goes to heartattack too low and, well, you know. Too dirty and your pipes are not healthy. NOW - prob. two:
With bad starting i mean the starter works fine, everything was normal, but it just didn't start. The thirt time i tried the car started immediately.
When i came home today i tried it again and it started without any problem, I let it run for about 10 minutes and then started it again without any problem.
again several areas:
- Easy first: bad connectors from battery to key to solenoid to spark: Clean, spray, reseat, try again.
- poor battery? How old...get it checked out with a mechanic's load tester
- a bad wire in sparkplug area going? but doesn't sound like the problem there.
- if heated solenoid, then might need addressing, but beware the pull and install mechanic....it would be a later step. Somehow I'm leaning in this area AFTER the 'easy first' above.
- 'could' be the alternator, which I won't get into as that is another thread, but check the other stuff first.
Could it be thas the fuel was vaporized due to standing to long in the sun with a hot engine? I know this can happen with older cars but i dont know with a ferrari 348 if this can happen.