Trouble shifting into 2nd - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-01-2009, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Trouble shifting into 2nd

I have a 2003 6 spd manual 360. It doesn't shift very smoothly into 2nd... is this normal? Oh... and if I'm driving the car hard (like it's supposed to be driven) the clutch will get spongy on down shifting... whats up with that? any input would be great... thanks!
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-01-2009, 06:31 PM
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If it were an older model I would say yes as second gear needs "warming up" on 308s/328s. The 360 shouldn't have this problem and it sounds like you could need a new clutch.
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-01-2009, 06:45 PM
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Yes it is normal and it's telling that it's time to drain and replace the tranny oil.

You need to make sure that the car is warm before you do 2nd gear shifts or you'll damage the 2nd gear synchro. I go from 1st to 3rd until it's warm.

Tranny oil change should be done every year at the most, because the placement of the CATS keeps the oil quite warm and it quickly breaks down.

Change it with Redline 75W90NS (it takes 9 pints) and put in at least one 4 oz container of Redline Friction modifier first.

After about 6 months have it changed again so you clear out the crap Shell oil Ferrari uses.

As to the clutch issue you did not say what mileage you have on the vehicle. However it could be a combination of coagulating tranny oil and a throw out bearing problem which equates to clutch wear.

There is no adjustment. So you could be getting close to a clutch replacement.

I do suggest you get the tranny oil changed, back off for a while on the "hard driving", and then see how the gearing works as well what transpires with the clutch issues.

BTW, welcome to F.L..

Being in Lake County who is doing your work?

Last edited by Gcalo; 04-01-2009 at 06:52 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-01-2009, 10:47 PM
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+1 on everything Gcalo has stated. Change the oil and you may be near needing a new clutch.
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-05-2009, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

Thanks so much for your help! I have a guy next to my practice who worked for Ferrari for a while... he has a europeon performance shop. He's worked on a few 360's, but doesn't know there nuance's...
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-05-2009, 07:55 PM
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Anything else you need just let me know.

I am happy to help you out.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-05-2009, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Levi Palmer View Post
Thanks so much for your help! I have a guy next to my practice who worked for Ferrari for a while... he has a europeon performance shop. He's worked on a few 360's, but doesn't know there nuance's...
Glad to be of assistance. Gcalo is a true 360 expert. Have you added your 360 to the owners list ? http://www.ferrarilife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8745
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-13-2009, 08:07 PM
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Levi

I drained and changed mt tranny this w/e and replaced with Redline 75W90NS w/a 4 oz container of friction modifier. What came out was dark, dark, dark. It should not be.

Tremendous difference in the shifting.

I foolishly left the oil in for 3 years! Bad bad bad! It should be done every 12 months. The cats are close to the tranny and heat the oil more than just the tranny itself could do. So frequent changes are in order.

Make sure you have that tranny drained and changed soon with Redline. You'll notice a major shifting difference.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-16-2009, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the oil, now i just need to know where the Transmission oil drain plug and fill is. ugh.. i'm use to working on conventional motors... totally stumped when i'm underneath the 360. I see a plug that says "oilo motor" toward the rear of the car on the transmission... but not sure if thats it... pics would be helpful, but i think i can figure it out with some simple guidance. Thanks!
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-17-2009, 07:44 AM
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Levi

That plug you mention is engine oil. Don't touch.

You need a 12 mm and a 14 mm hex wrench. Available from Sears and Snap-On tools.

You have to remove the entire plastic pan below the car to get to the drain. It's easier sometimes to remove the rear bumper because there is a tubular filter screen there that should be carefully removed and cleaned.

However, you need a new O-ring for that, and you'll need new crush rings for the drain plug and the re-fill plugs.
If you don't have a lift you'll need to get the rea up on jack stands.

At the very rear of the tranny on the driver's side there is the drain plug facing towards the front of the car and pointing downward. I believe this is the 14 mm plug.

Just ahead of that about 4-6 inches forward and in the middle of the sidewall of the tranny on the same side as the drain plug there is the fill plug. That requires a 12 mm hex wrench tool.

Built into that cap is an oil fill guage.

Remove the fill plug first and then open the drain plug. Let it drip drain for 10-15 minutes min. Get ready for fast flow! Check and clean the magnetic surface of the drain plug. You need new crush washers!

You'll need a funnel with about 2' of tubing so you can insert tubing into fill opening and then slowly pour from above.

Put in a 4 oz bottle of Redline Friction Modifier first then add 4 pints of 75W90NS Redline. Let sit for a few minutes and then check the fill lines on the cap. Just let the fill cap sit on top of the threads and check the level.

It will take just short of 6 pints. Pour 1/2 of another quart and check fill level. Pour in additional slowly and check levelsAt the end you'll be very close to 6 pints.

When done check tightness both plugs. Don't overtighten.

WARNING: If you are not familiar with this have a pro do it.

Levi, PM me your e-mail and I'll send you the photo guided procedure.

Last edited by Gcalo; 04-17-2009 at 08:15 AM.
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-17-2009, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks!!!
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-08-2009, 01:57 PM
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Yup, Greg's got it right. But, not limited to 360s/newer models either. Happens on almost all post 60's cars. That space near the 2nd gear is small and when cold has difficulty getting fluid in there. I usually warm up for about 5-20 min before attempting 2nd [depending on ambient temps...if > 70 usually not a problem and less time to get into 2nd ]

Also, I typically, since Ferraris can take it, do the odd-number shift until warm. That is, 1-3-5 etc. AND keep the RPMs < 3k when cold [anyway!] wait for proper warm up
and good to go. NEVER take your car to speed > 3kRPM until needles are pointing in the more-proper area.

ALSO, Greg's recommendation of REDLINE= TOPs to me. Never have much of any problem anymore when I switched. great stuff.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-08-2009, 07:31 PM
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Redline is one of the only oils considered to be fully synthetic.

That makes a huge difference.

When used as a motor oil engines runa few degrees cooler.

It's really good stuff!!
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-13-2011, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Figured it out!

After getting the remotes programed at Ferrari of SF, they said my transmission mount was blown! They weren't kidding either. I replaced it w/the CS model. It is WAY better reinforced. Car shifts even better now!
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