I've done some quick temperature tests in the engine bay following fitment of the aftermarket manifolds/headers, and despite them being coated, temps are in places 50 degrees higher than with the stock manifolds in place. It's not a huge issue, but I'm not happy with it so over winter I will remove the manifolds and send them to be triple coated. I will use Camcoat's Ceramic Exhaust Coatings - Racespec
for the work; they offer a 'RaceSpec' version which is a triple exterior coat and single internal coat - which is tried and tested in Le Mans cars - but I'm cautious of introducing any possible failure modes within the exhaust primaries, which is of course the very reason for removing the stock manifolds in the first place, so in view of that I will stick to a triple exterior coat. This should bring bay temps lower than with the very well insulated stock manifolds in place.
I did mention in a previous post that I would at some point revisit the engine bay clutch line which was knurled at the clutch distribution block end, which is the likely result of a previous clutch block change. Whilst making the line I decided to address another potential problem area: the steel hardline on manual gearbox F430's takes a rather tortuous route which exposes it to the heat of the manifold primaries without the benefit of any heat insulation whatsoever. The orange lines in the following photo illustrate this:
In view of the above my replacement line will be of a different construction and take a different route. Thankfully the master cylinder to slave cylinder line that runs the length of the car is composed of multiple pieces, and the section I want to replace is joined at a very accessible location at the front of the engine:
The hose of choice is -4 Aeroquip PTFE inner/stainless braid covering. I'm using a Banjo fitting at the clutch block end to allow the hose to pass directly downwards from the block.
I have some 'extreme' hear barrier (bottom
) that is a snug fit over the -4 hose, and for maximum protection some fire sleeve (top
) on top.
Here's the OEM clutch line removed (top
) and my replacement (bottom
Replacement line in situ, showing the new route. Green arrows indicate hose connections and the smaller blue arrows indicate the stainless fixings I used to secure the new line to the gear change cables.
The clutch was bled through and test. Fluid of choice is Motul RBF600
Whilst working on the clutch hydraulic system I wanted to provide some protection for the distribution block. Regardless of what type of manifolds are fitted, the block is within 50mm of the neck of the stock catalytic converter, which obviously is not coated - none of the stock system is - and also falls outside the reach of the stock heat shield. I had noticed that the clutch block can be hot to the touch after a run, which obviously isn't ideal, so my plan was to create a heat shield in a similar vein to the stock part protecting the CV boots.
'Nimbus' was my material of choice, but rather than buy the branded product I located a heat shield on eBay from a mass produced car. It's the same stuff, but brand new only cost a small amount. The part I used was from a Citroen!
A few cardboard mock-ups later I had a pattern that would work. I also fabricated a bracket from 2mm aluminium that would mount to the clutch block and utilise its mounting bolt.
Close up of bracket and shield. The shield looks a little messy here because I designed it with overlapping sections that will be held together by the sheet metal screws used to affix the assembly. I also designed the shield so that overlap join sections face away from the heat source.
Bracket in situ. Clutch bleed block still easily accessible from above, below, and directly in front.
Shield in place. This photos show how it looks much neater once clamped down to the bracket.
Engine bay view. The photo shows how the shield follows the contours of the gearbox, and also just how close the clutch block is to the cat.