360 Engine warm up - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 06-06-2014, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Engine warm up

Wanted to get some thoughts regarding how long you guys let your engine warm up before driving?
I remember seeing a few comments in the past in which some guys have advocated for near 15-20 minute warm ups. I had taken that advice and have used it as a routine when I start my 2000 360 with F1 transmission. However, was browsing Youtube one day and saw a 'First Drive' for the 360 in which the commentator mentioned the 360 was "different than previous Ferrari's that needed long warm ups. The 360 you can just hop in, crank the engine and go".
So it got me wondering what the general consensus was here? Are the newer generation Fcars (ie. 1999 to present) able to do this, or is it wise to do this?? Should I continue to do my 15-20 min warm up? Or am I just wasting time and/or gas doing this?? Obviously, I know a lot depends on climate/weather, how long the car has been idle, etc....but general thoughts/opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks guys,

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Laissez les bons temps rouler!
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post #2 of 20 Old 06-06-2014, 07:24 AM
 
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Why not follow the recommendations given by Ferrari in the owners manual. Start the car and drive it right away. But don't exceed 4000 rpm until the oil temperature reaches 65-70C. Simple, no?

It doesn't say so, but I think it's good practice to not only obey the 4000 rpm limit but also avoid full throttle and "speed shifting" while you're waiting for the oil to warm up. In other words, take it easy for a while. It just makes sense. By the way, you can easily keep with traffic using part throttle and a maximum of 4000 rpm, so that's not usually a concern.

Letting the engine sit there at idle for a long period of time is a waste of time and fuel, but it's also harmful to the engine. Don't do it.
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post #3 of 20 Old 06-06-2014, 10:30 AM
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With mild/warm ambient temperatures, just crank the engine and wait 1/2 minutes. You'll hear the engine will change noise once the cats have warmed up and injected air + rich A/F mixture will be stopped. This happens very fast and in only a couple of minutes, a bit longer if it is really cold outside. After that, you're good to go but at a reasonable pace without exceeding 3500/4000 rpm and minimum shifts. There is definitely no need to let the engine idling for such a long time
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post #4 of 20 Old 06-06-2014, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, appreciate the input, I may be exaggerating a bit with 15-20 mins, but point is, it sounds like I don't have to do it nearly that long.

Thanks again,

JASON

Laissez les bons temps rouler!
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post #5 of 20 Old 06-06-2014, 12:51 PM
 
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Another little piece of advise

A gearbox expert from Germany once told me that when everything is not warmed up properly it's better to go off the gas pedal completely,press the paddle,wait for the next gear to be engaged and then gently go on the throttle again. According to him that causes less clutch wear because he said that the most wear is caused when people even driving gently have Sport ( or Race mode in the models with the manettino switch ) while driving a car where everything is not warmed up properly so it's better to use normal or Low Grip if you drive an F430/612/599 and shift as said.I would also like to hear the opinions of all of you concerning this method whether it is actually doing something or if it is just blah blah.Oh,and as said no more than 2 minutes of idling are needed even in very cold weather.
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post #6 of 20 Old 06-07-2014, 07:28 PM
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+1
We can hear the engine volume change and then move along. The proper warmup in our region IMO is longer than it should be and the manual is aligned perfectly to the engine note change. After 24min from start I then monitor the temp gages.

A pattern to consider. Start & drive under 3500rpm to your nearest petrol station. The heat soak will warm up while you fill and chat it up with the locals. It's the one time I look forward to a little heat soak

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Originally Posted by StefVan View Post
With mild/warm ambient temperatures, just crank the engine and wait 1/2 minutes. You'll hear the engine will change noise once the cats have warmed up and injected air + rich A/F mixture will be stopped. This happens very fast and in only a couple of minutes, a bit longer if it is really cold outside. After that, you're good to go but at a reasonable pace without exceeding 3500/4000 rpm and minimum shifts. There is definitely no need to let the engine idling for such a long time

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post #7 of 20 Old 06-09-2014, 08:48 PM
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about 30 seconds, maybe a minute when its super cold outside. I don't want to call it a "smooth" idle because that implies the car is not running smoothly, but somewhere around 20-40 seconds the car settles down and smooths out, Stef says in a post above "will change noise once the cats have warmed up and injected air + rich A/F mixture will be stopped" don't know if that is what it is but it settles down and I drive away. The car will warm up faster when moving and I keep it under 3,500RPM until it starts to warm up.

For me my only issue is the freeway onramp is about 1 mile from my house, the car is not warmed up yet so I get on the freeway keeping the revs down which is no fun. When its raining and cold during the winter I will sometimes even go to another onramp another mile away to get to work just to let her warm up a little more and still keep the revs down but this time because of the wet.

Since the original poster asked about 360 vs. older cars, my Dino would take about a minute or minute and half to settle down to a smooth idle and then I would drive off slowly, 12 years with that car and no issues, but I didn't drive it in the rain very often because old Dino's start rusting at the thought of rain

Last edited by mikeyr; 06-09-2014 at 08:54 PM.
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post #8 of 20 Old 06-10-2014, 09:35 AM
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long enough for me to go back and close my garage door. or less.



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post #9 of 20 Old 06-10-2014, 09:12 PM
 
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2~3 minutes, after the car quiets down a bit.
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-12-2014, 06:39 PM
 
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Correction. 65 seconds. Just timed it.


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Originally Posted by Jimmy540i.com View Post
2~3 minutes, after the car quiets down a bit.
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-13-2014, 12:33 PM
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One important thing to keep in mind though is that the engine coolant needs to heat up to be able to heat up the transmission oil. At cold start, it's the gear box that will suffer most as the transmission oil needs well more time to warm up than the engine itself. This is very ofter forgotten as people are more focused to not revv the engine above 3500/4000 rpm. With a manual gear, it's easy to feel that the gearbox is not warmed up but with the F1, no way to feel it, it will slam the gears in at a pressure of +50 bars, gearbox cold or not.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-13-2014, 01:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StefVan View Post
One important thing to keep in mind though is that the engine coolant needs to heat up to be able to heat up the transmission oil. At cold start, it's the gear box that will suffer most as the transmission oil needs well more time to warm up than the engine itself. This is very ofter forgotten as people are more focused to not revv the engine above 3500/4000 rpm. With a manual gear, it's easy to feel that the gearbox is not warmed up but with the F1, no way to feel it, it will slam the gears in at a pressure of +50 bars, gearbox cold or not.
So Stef,the less the number of shifts done,the better ?
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-13-2014, 05:40 PM
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You V8 guys. On the V12s, the oil temperature has nothing to do with the transaxle warming up. Handy measure of when she is warm, only when driven, but that is about it.

Taz
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post #14 of 20 Old 06-13-2014, 06:18 PM
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My wife finds v8 ownership quite entertaining. Waiting for warmup before 4k+ revs and once everything is up to temp hoping not to get stuck in traffic. The F1 shifting hasn't been noticeably different cold or warm - reading was 97% last Fall. Is there a break in period that changes with temperature and wear?

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post #15 of 20 Old 06-15-2014, 06:14 PM
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I'm not an expert on F1 transaxles but as far as the engine goes best to start the car and when the oil pressure comes up just begin to drive slow. If you let the car idle it takes too long for the engine to warm up allowing lots of blow by which contaminates the engine oil.

Remote starters have to be about the worst things for an engine. I have a nieghbor and his wife that always gone out and started thier cars and went in to drink coffee while the cars warmed up. Two motors completly sludged up and had oil related failures including the pickup screens clogging up. Couldn't believe what the lifter valleys looked like.

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post #16 of 20 Old 06-15-2014, 09:43 PM
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Kevin- As a side note to that, I never use F1 Sport mode until the engine oil (and thus transaxle oil) are up to ~160 F. No since banging home shifts while the transaxle is cold.

Always makes me laugh when owners say " I only use Sport (or Race in later models) mode.

Taz
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post #17 of 20 Old 06-23-2014, 07:19 PM
 
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At least 4 to 5 minutes from cold start up, the engine ECUís are still adjusting trim settings for outside temps etc.
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post #18 of 20 Old 06-23-2014, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecomp View Post
At least 4 to 5 minutes from cold start up, the engine ECUís are still adjusting trim settings for outside temps etc.
Really? The manual doesn't touch on this at all. Would like to know more as in the summer she warms up quick and curious why a 360 ECU wouldn't immediately learn. She's a lot smarter than I am....especially when I forget a downahift

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post #19 of 20 Old 06-24-2014, 11:16 AM
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The engines are adjusting trim settings continuously, not just at cold start-up.

Start her and once you hear, os see, a slight rpm decrease from cold start high idle, you are good to go. Stay below 4000 rpm until you have ~160 F oil temperature. I recommend not using Sport/Race until you have the same oil temperature. No sense banging shifts in a cold transaxle.

Taz
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post #20 of 20 Old 07-07-2014, 11:12 PM
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I go with the manual.... start and drive under 4K rpm until everything is warm and then

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