360 360 Audio Amplifer Cable Routing Question - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-07-2013, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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360 Audio Amplifer Cable Routing Question

Over the past few weeks I have been researching component parts for my audio upgrade ... that I am doing myself. I am finding some challenges that I would appreciate some advice ...

I am installing the amp in the front luggage compartment (trunk or boot). I need to provide power and ground to the amp and route the signal cables and speaker wires. I need to route the positive power cable and would like some advice on that. There does not appear to be a spare grommet going through the firewall ... besides the obvious precaution when drilling a hole in the firewall, does anyone have any experience on where to actually drill. Before I take the plunge, looking for some advice.

Similar for routing the signal and speaker wires ... I do not want to use the same hole as the power cable. How far apart should I route the signal wires. I am using high quality signal cables that are twisted pair which should mitigate electrical noise, but I believe still wise to not route too close to the power cable.

Lastly, the ground connection for the amp. I know that I should not ground directly to the battery. Any body have any thoughts on best spot to locate the ground connection? If I could get to it, I would ground on the chassis side of the master switch, but can't get access to the damn thing.

Thanks for any help.

Steve
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-07-2013, 02:41 PM
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Can't help you on the routing, but I wouldn't worry about a separate one for the signal/speaker wires. Unless you're the Bionic Man, you wouldn't be able to hear any induced signal noise.

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-07-2013, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I spent a bunch of time today trying to install my new audio components and the car beat me to death. After several frustrating hours making a few mods to the OEM speaker mounts for the door speakers (metal hole in door panel was bit too small), I then decided that I had only one door done, did not have the power and signal cables routed yet, I was looking at the other door and seeing that was going to take another four hours or so. And on top of that, getting the speaker wires into the door was a problem. Can't use the existing rubber boot as that terminates in a plug. Can't route wires in there.

I decided to give this job to a pro. Now just need to find an installer who won't get pissed cuz I did not buy all the components from him.

Steve
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-08-2013, 08:41 PM
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360 install

I would also be concerned that the installer knows how to do your 360...Good luck
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-09-2013, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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After thinking through options, decided not to give it up quite yet. I have done some more research and talked to some pro installers and believe that I can accomplish what I need to do yet on my own ... with a bit of assistance from the shop that works on my car to help me a bit.

Steve
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-17-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Finished my Audio Upgrade

One of the more difficult tasks I have undertaken, and if I ever dream about doing this again, I will apologize when I wake up.

There were many problems that I had to overcome:

Opening in doors for mid range woofers too small. Needed to use jig saw to enlarge ... that took some time.

OEM speaker wiring in door could not be reused as originally the tweeter and mid range woofer were wired in parallel

Could not route new speaker wires through the Molex plug in door. Had to drill hole in door and route new speaker wires and use some Techflex to protect those new wires.

Routing the power cables and speaker wires to / from the luggage compartment (where I installed the amp) was very fiddly as there is a lot of plumbing between the passenger compartment and luggage compartment. I remembered several of those words if I used them in my mother's presence, she would wash my mouth my soap

Getting door panels off the car is huge PITA. I broke a little clip that holds the end of the door release cable when removing one the door panels ... had to replace that ... cost $0.90.

Have to replace the vapor barrier in luggage compartment as needed to remove that to route my wiring through the firewall.

I was able to re-use the original mid-range woofer grills for new speakers. Intended to get grills for the sub-woofer (using original enclosure), but that is uncommon size, so had to modify the OEM grills to use those.

Although the results are very satisfying and I am really pleased I was able to do it myself ... never again! Huge improvement in audio quality over the original. And, I now have Bluetooth phone, USB, and HD radio capabilities.

Steve
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