360 changing shift handle/ hill bushing - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 02-17-2013, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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changing shift handle/ hill bushing

Hello all, in the process of converting my car to a 3 pedal, I bought some used items. The shifter assembly was one of them. Being I was raised on, and most familiar with American muscle, I didn't think the slight bend in the shifter stalk was unusual, until I paid attention to other cars and saw that they are originally straight as an arrow.

This caused me to hit the parts department ( expensive parts inside the shifter assembly) I bought a new shift shaft, and being I was in there, I figured I would get a new reverse bushing. Being Hill makes one, I figured why not buy the "uprated" Hill item, my shifter did have a very small amount of side to side play, but I was told there should be zero. If there is, the reverse bushing is the problem.

While I had it apart, I really studied the pieces. I marked their orientation before disassembly.

As you can see from the pix of the caliper, the Hill piece is approx .005" thicker than the original. The original plastic bushing did show a wear pattern in the contact area, so I am interested in seeing how thick it was new. The main shift support pin fits thru the original plastic reverse bushing with almost no clearance. Like a plug fit. The Hill part has approx .0015-.002" clearance which I found surprising. I expected it to be very close to a plug fit, however, being thicker, it should eliminate the minor side to side for a while at least.

Next pictured is the spring loaded cup that keeps pressure on the main shifter pin. This spring/cup forces the shifter to a "neutral " when your hand is not making it do otherwise.

Now, the picture shows the cup as worse than it is. There certainly is some wear at the 6 and 12 oclock position. The main pin that mates to it had no burrs or sharp spots whatsoever. I did check that carefully. The larger wear area was at the 6 oclock position, which makes sense, as that would receive pressure when shifting to 1st, 2nd and reverse, so based on what I see, this shifter ( as would most) spent more time going to 1/2 than 5/6 ( there would be no additional pin pressure in the 3/4 position).

Instead of buying a new cup, being it seems perfect besides the 2 marked areas, I will simply spin it 90 degrees from it's originally installed position. This will give the main pin a brand new surface to work on. Hopefully when I finish, my shifter will be as tight as new!!!
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post #2 of 3 Old 02-18-2013, 12:56 PM
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Interesting post

The extra thickness of the HE bushing shouldn't be a problem at all. They could have made it even a bit thicker to make it more solid.

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I didn't had any wear on this spring loaded cup neither on the flat steel plate. I guess that between these 2 parts, grease must have been missing. I put there a lot of grease and simply this will already change everything to obtain great, smooth and fast shifts, even at cold startup. It is vital to use good quality permanent grease between them. These steel parts should never have a direct contact

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post #3 of 3 Old 02-18-2013, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Stef, actually a previous post of yours is what I used as a tutorial. I didn't mean to suggest that the HE part was inferior due to thickness, actually the contrary. It does appear that it could have even been a few thousanths thicker without issue. My actual thought was I was wondering if I were to measure the factory part new, how thick that would be. Being plastic, it can wear easily, The HE is appears anodized, which I hope will wear better.

I do agree with you and will liberally grease the cup and pin prior to install.


Thank you for your new and previous posts. They help a lot.

Kindest regards

Rich
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