360 Key cokor change (pix) - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-13-2013, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: north New Jersey USA
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Key cokor change (pix)

Hello all, I am not sure why, but most 360 keys I have seen are a bit tattered and worn. It appears that the factory simply painted directly on top if the aluminum casting, with little regard to how the finish would wear. My car as I am sure most Fcar owner's is in real nice shape. The key, not so much. Anyway, My thought was the key matching the calipers would be nice, so, being my key needed a refresh, and I am chaning my caliper color to yellow, this would motivate me to start the caliper job.

Being I eat, breathe and sleep cars, I have lots of tools and equipment. Some at home, some at work. I used a glass bead cabinet to strip the key of the old paint. This also does a good job of "roughing it up" enough for the primer to stick ( note, I did not post the primer type or stage of paint, but it was done. I use a fast dry sandable metal primer)

The glass bead step can be done by sanding with a mildly corse paper ( 220 or finer). If you decide to do this, and don't feel like sanding, I will gladly mask off, and bead blast for you. PM me for address. Blasting literally takes 2 minutes, so if you are local, I will do it while you wait. If not, send it and I will send it back stripped and taped.

The heat gun and razor was used to remove the tiny cavalino. I was surprised as to how well this was attached. Without the heat, it would not budge. I didn't want to break it, so the heat gun did the trick. You can see I have a pro quality gun that has it's own stand, but I am sure a hair dryer would provide enough heat to do this. Slowly heat the painted portion ( the aluminum housing) until the glue lets go, You may need pliers to hold it as it needs a fair amount of heat to release the factory adhesive.

Overall, this is a pretty easy job that most can do. The end result makes the effort worth it, When done, you will have a key you are truly proud of!!!!

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post #2 of 8 Old 01-13-2013, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: north New Jersey USA
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This picture shows what the aluminum casting looks like bare; after the glass being. Notice is has a rough texture which is good for a primer/surfacer. At this point, it can be simply polished as I have seen another Lifer do. That too is a very nice look.

I used a metal sanding primer, and gave it 2 light coats. The next day, I sanded very lightly with 800 grit, just to "knock down" any nibs or corse areas. Prior to the initial priming I used "prepsol" which cleans surfaces in prep for paint. The idea is to have the surface clean of impurities. For something this small, I would imagine even soapy water would work as long as it was allowed to dry thoroughly before any prime or paint.

Being I wanted to match my calipers color, I used the paint that I purchased for the calipers. In the picture I show the type. For a job this mall, a spray can works well. I used the yellow as a base, then I clear coated it. As a general rule, I start with a couple of "dry" coats ( meaning I am not putting it on heavy to obtain a gloss). This promotes good adhesion, and lessens the likelihood of the new paint reacting to the coat under it, in this case, the primer. After a couple of dry coats I put on 2 more "wet" coats. Not too wet, as the clear will bring the gloss. After I was satisfied with the yellow's coverage, I went to the clear. Same process, dry at first, then wet. Being I was not intending on "rubbing" the finish, I was careful to apply a coat that was wet enough to gloss, but not so wet that it runs. You may want to practice on scrap to get the feel.
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-13-2013, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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After letting the paint dry for a few days, I began to reinstall the cavalino. Allowing ample dry time is important. I have learned the hard way to be patient with this. Although I will bake this paint for my calipers, I let it dry at room temp for this.

I cleaned the little horsey for good glue adhesion and chose this gel type super glue. I bought 4 differnt glues and experimented. The gel worked best. A toothpick is useful to apply the glue as only a dot in a few places is needed. I used a piece of pin stripe tape stuck to the front surface of the horse to act as a handle. It is simply too small for me to pick up and place when there is only one chance at it. This worked well for me. After I glued it, I set it aside to dry. Now the trick is putting the ring for the transmitter back on without scratching it!!

So here is the finished product. Now that I am done typing, I have to remove my calipers!!!!

Drive safe

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post #4 of 8 Old 01-13-2013, 09:31 AM
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Very nicely done!
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-14-2013, 10:07 AM
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Thats nice! My key looks the same as the first pics. Now I want to do the same!

2010 599 HGTE
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-14-2013, 11:36 AM
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Rich- Looks great, especially if you have yellow car.

Have also seen them polished with a buffing wheel and polishing compound and then clear coated.

Terry Phillips

Present: 575M 135171
Past: Dino 246 GT 02984, 365 GTB/4 14009, 308 GTS 25125

Every day I look around, and if nobody is shooting at me, it is a pretty good day.
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-14-2013, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Location: north New Jersey USA
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Hello Francars, that is why I posted it. So many nice 360s have "tattered" keys. A few dollars for paint and a little effort and a nice looking key!!! If it gets tattered again, just do it over.

Hi Taz, no, my car is TDF blue, with silver calipers, but I am currently in the process of changing the caliper color to yellow, so my key will match the calipers.

I just think the yellow calipers look great!!! Like you have. The silver are too understated for me. They are certainly tasteful, but they don't pop.

Maybe if I get tired of TDF, I can paint the car to match the key!!!
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-14-2013, 08:24 PM
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