F430 360/430 DIY guide:install an aluminium dead pedal - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-13-2011, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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360/430 DIY guide:install an aluminium dead pedal

This is a very easy DIY guide, something everyone can do. That's why I thought it was worth sharing some details on how to install the aluminium dead pedal.

The dead pedal on the 360 and F430 is identical so this DIY can be done for both cars. Both cars have this horrible looking rubber which is simply glued on a metallic support. With time, the rubber starts looking even worst and will start ungluing in some areas or will start deforming with the foot pressure.

Our cars deserve a much better looking pedal and a good dead petal is essential in driving your car in a spirited way. Grace to this rest surface, you can press hard your left leg which will block your back into the seat, keeping your arms flexible enough to steer efficiently. It's essential not to hold your body in the seat with the steering wheel

I bought my dead pedal from Hill Engineering (UK). For the USA, this product is also distributed by Daniel @ Ricambi. Make sure you order the right pedal depending on the driver side (LHS or RHS).

The dead pedal is made of aluminium and is very well manufactured. It's very light but feel really strong. It comes with 2 x 6 screws and a short instruction guide. All you need is a drill (cordless is better, 25-30 Nm is large enough) with a 4.5 mm drill and a cruciform screwdriver. Those who don't want to drill can also try to glue it but with a strong double face tape.
The kit is delivered with 2x6 screws as you can see in the picture below. These screws are M5 Taptite 4.5 mm screws. As indicated in the short instruction guide, these Self-tapping screws are thread forming screws having a tri-lobular cross-section which enables them to roll a thread in a prepared hole. Make sure you use only a 4.5mm drill as using any other size will affect the way that the Taptite screw will work.
You have the choice between 2 types of screws. I used those on the left as they allow a stronger fix.

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The first step is to remove the rubber part. Push the driver seat entirely backwards and remove the carpets. Just pull off the rubber dead pedal by grabbing it on the lower part. I should come off very easily as it is barely glued and only in some areas.

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Once removed the rubber part, you'll discover the metalic support. Use some dissolvent to remove the traces of glue left on the metallic support. Take the chance to clean up this area which isn't easily accessible

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On the picture below, you can see the cleaned metallic support. I indicated in red the areas you should avoid when drilling the holes. DO NOT DRILL the rivets of the metallic plate (indicated in the red circles)!

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Position the new dead pedal which should fit easily on the metallic support. It's not a 100% exact fit though. The lower part has a slight
different shape but it doesn't not affect the positioning.

Before drilling the first hole have a look at the picture below where I indicated the location of the screws. You can use any hole of the dead
pedal but remember to avoid the rivets.

It's a good idea to put a couple of screws also on the side part of the pedal.

When you're happy with the position, drill one hole. It's better to start with the lower part.

Before drilling the next holes, fix the pedal with one screw in the first hole, then drill any other fixing holes.
Don't over tight the screws as they can get loose after.

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post #2 of 8 Old 11-13-2011, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Now here's the result. A 15 minute job and you'll get a great looking foot well. Great things don't need to be always complicated or expensive

I've installed also fading foot well lights (will explain this "how to" in another thread) and seeing them shining the new dead pedal is a real pleasure.

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post #3 of 8 Old 11-13-2011, 05:41 PM
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Nice! I have tbd same dead pedal in my 430 also from Hill's. But I was too chickenshitz to drill so i used industrial grade double sided tape to bond the pedal to tbd rubber cap so I can remove the next time I decide to bolt it down...looks like I might to soon. Do the screws hold the pedal down firmly? Do they come loose? I hate it when they start to get a little shaky when the action on the road/track heats up.

Last edited by 430Addict; 11-13-2011 at 09:17 PM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 11-13-2011, 09:10 PM
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Stef- Looks very nice.

Terry Phillips

Present: 575M 135171
Past: Dino 246 GT 02984, 365 GTB/4 14009, 308 GTS 25125

Every day I look around, and if nobody is shooting at me, it is a pretty good day.
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-14-2011, 04:13 AM
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Fantastic. Thanks for sharing this with us.
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post #6 of 8 Old 11-14-2011, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all. I like such simple jobs which makes really good results Thanks to Hill Ingineering and Daniel @ Ricambi to manufacture/sell such good quality parts. I'm using several HI parts like wheel hangers or crome saver nuts and they are really tip top quality! It has to be said when guys are designing and manufacturing real good parts Made in UK

No risk to have the pedal coming loose with the screws. The main thing is not to drill the holes too deep and let the screw making it's way when tightening it. The pedal is rock solid and no noise when I put pressure on it. And I use my left leg really a lot to block my body deep in the slippery leather seats.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-14-2014, 08:53 AM
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I have ordered this too, would have preferred just a flat plate similar to the Hill Eng. RHD version, not least because it looks better and is 1/3 of the cost. Also think it looks better if you have a clutch pedal like Stefvan but as I have drilled out the Clutch and Gas pedal it won't be so shabby
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-14-2014, 08:55 AM
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I removed the cheap aluminium underplate just to save some more weight
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