Bleeding Clutch on a 360 - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-15-2009, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Bleeding Clutch on a 360

Well I decided last W/E to bleed the clutch on my car since recently I did the brakes but did not have time to do the clutch that day.

After removing the bottom pan (I was changing engine and tranny oils), I set-up the compressor and the Griots power bleeder.

BTW, I have removed the nozzle Griots supplies with the assembly as it is more trouble than it's worth. I have enclosed a photo of the unit but it's hard to clearly see just the nozzle.

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I removed it, because the tube they supply fits perfectly over the bleer screw nipples, and it is one less thing to hold during the operation. Also there is no leakage of brake fluid.

I then used my 13 mm Griots flexible box wrench pointed out in the brake bleed section to slightly loosen the bleeder screw.

Then I opened the trunk, removed the cowl cover, removed the two plugs from the reservoir cap, unscrewed the cap, and checked the fluid condition.

There was a little bit of residue in suspension with the new brake fluid, so I sucked out with the Griots bleeder the fluid in the reservoir and refilled it with additional clean Pentosin Dot 4 fluid.

I then attached the bleeder hose directly to the clutch nipple (see photo of the nipple with cap on).

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I had my bride put pressure on the clutch pedal while I alternated between a normal bleed from the pedal pressure and a Griots vacuum bleed.

I found that alternating doing this gives me better control of the bleed process, lets me see the fluid color change better, and ensures that the clutch was fully bled.

I sucked through about a cup of fluid or a little more. I wanted to be absolutely sure the clutch was bled. I topped up the reservoir again, had my bride pump the clutch pedal, and then checked the reservoir again.

I then checked the clutch. It was quite firm.

Before putting the pan back on, I started the car and tried 1st gear and then reverse a few times to make absolutely sure the T/O bearing was fully disengaging.

I was not going to restore the pan to find out I needed additional bleeding!

So now it is working terrifically, and I am happy.

Easy job. Make sure to open the Griots bleeder before finishing to see the debris in there to make sure it was all pulled out of the line.

Take your time with this process and keep an eye on fluid color changes.

Oh and regardless of what Griots says, you still need someone to pump the brake or the clutch to do a proper job with Griots bleeder.

Last edited by Gcalo; 07-15-2009 at 04:28 PM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-17-2009, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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I neglected to mention that it is important to check the clutch bleeder block for leaks.

The OEM part has a tendency to crack and leak, and that can cause tons of clutch problems.

Make sure to check that cause if it is leaking bleeding the clutch at that point is a waste of time and fluid!
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-17-2010, 03:24 PM
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bit late

Greg: Don't you need to read the OBD II after you do this to reset your brakes correctly: I've heard that. Set me straight.

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post #4 of 6 Old 06-17-2010, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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No there is no relation.

Bleed 'em and then stop 'em!!!

Works great.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-17-2010, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gcalo View Post
No there is no relation.

Bleed 'em and then stop 'em!!!

Works great.

Good to know: Is there ANY TIME one uses a OBD tool in 360 brake work. Like total replacement I'm thinking or swapping out parts etc.

nice to see ya' back

Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-17-2010, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Been a bit involved with a ton of things some of which have not been pleasant, but so goes family life sometimes.

I am not aware of any connection (no pun intended) to OBDII. Maybe there's a message in there from ABS system if a panic stop, but again I would think that is SD2 territory.

I believe if pad sensors wear through may need SD2 to reset light but again I am not sure as I have not experienced it on mine.

Usually the pad sensor circuit is just an open circuit (when worn through) that brings the dash light on and new sensors should, therefore, close the circuit. At least that's the way it has been on a few of my other cars.
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