575M F1 new owner - Page 4 - Ferrari Life
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post #61 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by 575er View Post
I also have 2 sets of rims for the F430, MPSS for general duties on one set and MPSC2's going on the other for Track days.

This is the way to go as on track the tires wear brutally and the thread can get ruffled, and when rolling on street can injure the suspension silentblocks, as with the rims, that specially if they´re modular, need to be checked because they can be bent or the screws can loosen.


With two sets you avoid all troubles. Congrats on that decision.

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Originally Posted by tazandjan View Post
G- Have to disagree with you on his old tires. AT 6 years they need to be changed, especially on a Ferrari. Some even advocate every 3 years for a Ferrari, but I think that is overkill. I even have my 89 year old mother change the tires on her Buick at 6 years, even though the tread is not worn out. Too much degradation of the tire after 6 years of outgassing and compound breakdown. Degrades traction, especially for braking.


Its not scientifically proven yet that a tire has a "past date". It depends on the how they´re used and kept. In a city car that its under daily usage, parked on the street and because of that is suffering bumps, asphalt cracks, potholes, the heat of the summer and the chill of the winter, for sure that changing them six years after the factory date is a safe bet. But can "die" before if the difference between summer and winter is extreme.


But for a car garaged and well looked after, with the best rubber available fitted, can last longer, when there´s only street usage. I think we are experienced drivers and can feel when the tires are tired and need replacement as they become hard and grip drops dramatically. Time for a change then.


That's why in Europe we tend to have summer rubber and winter rubber (ideally in two set of rims) for cars used on a daily basis. One set lives in chilling conditions and the other in the mild temperatures of spring, the heat of the summer and the medium range temperatures of the beginning of the autumn. Thus, the rubber works always under the same thermal circumstances and the appropriate ones for each compound (as a summer compound hardens brutally when there´s 6şC or less), because the worst that happens to them is the stress induced by the difference of temperature in working conditions, that affects their elasticity and thus how their wear.


That's the reason why a six year period is the indicated "safe bet" to replace them, but that's for daily used ones. And that's why a car that doesn't move during the winter should be up on blocks (so the tires don't get squared) and when its again on the floor should run at least 60 miles a month.

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post #62 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 11:19 AM
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G- I still believe in the 6 year rule of thumb, regardless of how the tires are treated.

Taz
Terry Phillips

Present: 575M 135171
Past: Dino 246 GT 02984, 365 GTB/4 14009, 308 GTS 25125

Every day I look around, and if nobody is shooting at me, it is a pretty good day.
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post #63 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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G- I still believe in the 6 year rule of thumb, regardless of how the tires are treated.


I do so... just in case, you know.


Maybe I could use some of them a bit further but its a risk I wont take. 6 years and they go... but then I´ve driven cars with the tires well looked after and kept with 10 years of age and they ran as they should.

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post #64 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 11:37 AM
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Terry, goliat,
in winter usually i drive less my 575, for example this autumn, at cause my exhaust building, the car was stopped for 3 month and now is from Ferrari dealer because the weather is no good, he told me that the tyres are ovalized ..... usually this problem expired after 15/20 km,
now i think the low temperature 0-3° non permit the regularization ...
I have B RE050A with about 3/4 years ....
For the future i don't know how to do..... i'm thinking to do 4 small hydraulic cylinders, connected between their, to put under the car from left side (on the right i have the wall) in order to lift car (also if partially) from the 4 lifting points.
Anoher way is use a tyre saver blocks, but is not easy for me to put because i have wall on right side and i can't walk there ....
Do you never had the same problem?

Fabio

PRESENT: 575 F1 HGTC ROSSO CORSA 2004' - MB CLS 350 CGI 2007'
PAST: 550 ROSSO CORSA 1998' - MB CLK 240 2002'
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post #65 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goliat View Post
If you feel the tires are actually gripping as they did when new, continue using them. In the moment you feel they´re hard and don't grip, they´re past they´re best and should be changed.


If you´re going to use the car on street go for the PSS. If you´re going to attend track-days, go for the PSC2.


As the 16M is yours do whatever you prefer... but in my opinion the 16M is collectable, and the Porsche 911 Targa4S is just another 911, so not collectable, or just consumable, will never rise in value and losts of them will be built. I would keep the 16M, try to keep the mileage at the minimum and get the 911 (second hand) and use it all the time.
Acctually, once I was thinking about it, but I will never track my 16M, so I am going to get MPSS. And I will put in storage my orginal tires.
You are right about the Porsche. It can be acquired at any time in the future.
I just liked the 016 Targa 4GTS because it looks sporty-classy, natural spritted engine, and it can be driven and enjoyed more often. It has been snowing way too much here. I just bought myself a new GMC crew cab truck. I think, for now, I am maxed out in cars.

Goliat, Fabio, Taz, and Michael ...I appreciate your input about the tires and other topics.

Enjoy Driving,

Muftah

P.S.
G....I didn't mean to divert from your orginal "new owner" thread!

Last edited by Muftah; 02-09-2015 at 05:56 PM.
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post #66 of 77 Old 02-09-2015, 07:29 PM
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Fabio- If you drive her and get the tires warm, they should return to true round for you. Those tiresavers work fine, but are a paint to use because you effectively have to jack up both sides of the car to put them underneath.

If you have to do it again, just rolling her forward or backward to spread the load around the entire tire will work fine. Tires are only 26" in diameter, 82"/200 cms in circumference, so it does not have to roll far to move the load around. 50 cms forward and aft would do it, then 1 meter in one direction.

Taz
Terry Phillips

Present: 575M 135171
Past: Dino 246 GT 02984, 365 GTB/4 14009, 308 GTS 25125

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post #67 of 77 Old 02-27-2015, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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Really sorry for the delay with the pictures promised, but the car was sent to the dealer to fix the passenger sunblind that refused to maintain its "folded" position and thus, unfolded with bumps (the plastic clip was past its best) and also the central locking on the drivers door, that tended to have its own ideas that didn't exactly match with my desires expressed via the key fob.


As soon as I pick up the car, pictures.

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post #68 of 77 Old 02-27-2015, 07:33 AM
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but the car was sent to the dealer to fix the passenger sunblind that refused to maintain its "folded" position and thus, unfolded with bumps (the plastic clip was past its best) .
I'm interested in seeing how they fix that visor. I do that here in the States and have done about 30 so far with 100% success. I replace the plastic with a 7075 aluminum part that will not wear out or break.

If they just replace the pin with a new part it will just break again. One guy had the new part break the first time he lowered the visor! Its a crap design.
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post #69 of 77 Old 02-27-2015, 08:45 AM
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I have Dave's mod on my visor and it is pretty much unbreakable. Highly recommended.

Taz
Terry Phillips

Present: 575M 135171
Past: Dino 246 GT 02984, 365 GTB/4 14009, 308 GTS 25125

Every day I look around, and if nobody is shooting at me, it is a pretty good day.
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post #70 of 77 Old 02-27-2015, 03:56 PM
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"If they just replace the pin with a new part it will just break again. One guy had the new part break the first time he lowered the visor! Its a crap design."

Yes, I'm the guy....ask what your warranty is after they fix it. Then keep Dave's number handy
Bill
Fla.
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post #71 of 77 Old 03-04-2015, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Following your advice I told Ferrari to fix the central locking issue but tell them to forget about the sunvisor thing and have sent a PM to Ferraridriver to see if I can get his development at home.


More news, the little one is that the Bradan pipes arrived yesterday, lets hope they let the V12 sing... and the big one is that I´ve got another Ferrari, a ´91 Testarrosa with 15.000mls, one owner, original paintwork and stunning condition. The search for a 412 continues.

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post #72 of 77 Old 03-04-2015, 05:02 PM
 
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... and the big one is that I´ve got another Ferrari, a ´91 Testarrosa with 15.000mls, one owner, original paintwork and stunning condition. The search for a 412 continues.
I'm curious to know why you prefer to find a 412 and not a 365 or 400?

Regards,

1999 Ferrari 550 Maranello FHP; 1999 Ferrari 456M GT; 1996 Buick Riviera; 2008 Bentley GT; 2010 Lotus Evora; 1969 Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV;
Past cars: 1965 Corvette Stingray Roadster; 1974 Corvette Stingray.
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post #73 of 77 Old 03-04-2015, 05:15 PM
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I should have included that I do not sell these parts as a kit but rather only repair visors sent to me.

The reasons are several, First it is all but impossible to properly clock the detent flats so the visor rest snugly against the headliner without a fixture I"ve made up. Second the plastic sometimes breaks so that pieces remain in the visor behind the spring clip necessitating cutting open the visor and resewing the cover. Third I have seen some pretty awful attempts at DIY repairing including removing the pin and inserting epoxy into the hole then re-inserting the pin!

Each visor repair is unique and I have no idea what's in store for me until I start repairs. Just today I got one that someone had crimped the metal tube hoping it would not turn, well that made fitting a pre made hollow aluminum piece on it pretty difficult.

PM me for cost if interested.

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post #74 of 77 Old 03-04-2015, 05:29 PM
 
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Quote:
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... and the big one is that I´ve got another Ferrari, a ´91 Testarrosa with 15.000mls, one owner, original paintwork and stunning condition. The search for a 412 continues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni View Post
I'm curious to know why you prefer to find a 412 and not a 365 or 400?

Regards,
Gianni
Hello...no need to reply here since I've just read your explanation in the "365, 400 or 412?" thread.

Regards,

1999 Ferrari 550 Maranello FHP; 1999 Ferrari 456M GT; 1996 Buick Riviera; 2008 Bentley GT; 2010 Lotus Evora; 1969 Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV;
Past cars: 1965 Corvette Stingray Roadster; 1974 Corvette Stingray.
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post #75 of 77 Old 07-27-2015, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Just writing to tell that a 355 Berlinetta manual finished in Rosso Corsa,with Nero interior with 30.000mls, a Blue Tour de France 550 Maranello with light grey interior and 28.000mls and a Blue Le Mans manual 456 with Ivory interior and 36.000ml have joined the fleet recently.


Pictures of the three will have to wait as the three are getting serviced.

Meanwhile the search for a nice manual 412 continues, as prices have risen brutally in the last six months and original and sound cars are getting scarce.

Live as if you´re going to die tomorrow, dream as if you´re going to live forever.
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post #76 of 77 Old 10-08-2015, 09:35 AM
 
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Just to add that I had Dave do my visor also. Meticulous work and not DIY. I stopped by and he showed me how it is done. You need a machine shop to make the parts and the jig.
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post #77 of 77 Old 10-09-2015, 07:11 AM
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Just to add that I had Dave do my visor also. Meticulous work and not DIY. I stopped by and he showed me how it is done. You need a machine shop to make the parts and the jig.
I had an issue with my visor too, it use to bother me, specially when I tracked my 575.
I sent it to David last month, he sent it back to me in few days, he did a perfect job fixing it.
Thanks David!
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