On my 360, there are four lifting points on the chassis. Each lifting point is located by the position of a threaded insert in the frame. Now this is fine for those of us who are familiar with the location, but I worry about the tire jockey at the local tire shop ... and, for that matter, the rear lifting points are recessed inside the belly pan. Marked "D" on attachment.

I have cobbled together a solution to the mitigate the risk of using an improper lifting point and would like an opinion from others.

The threaded insert takes a 12mm x 1.75mm bolt. I have taken three 1" washers and one 0.5" x 2" fender washer, I have glued the washers together using RTV Silicone adhesive ... aligning the center so that I can insert a 19mm socket thru the 1" washers so I can thread the 12mm bolt thru the fender washer into the threaded insert of the lifting point. This way, the bolt head is not protruding beyond the face of the outer washer. What I have now is a "hockey puck" that I am able to mount to the lifting point. This "hockey puck" is now used as the lifting point for my floor jack or the lift arms at the tire shop. There is no stress on the bolt as the head of the bolt is under the outer face ... all force is directly applied to the surface of the lifting point. The RTV adhesive only needs to keep the washers from separating when not attached to the car and glue the fender washer to the top of the stack. Once you apply a force to lift the car, the RTV adhesive is not stressed. I only have to finger tightened the 12mm bolt using the socket so it is easy to install / remove the hockey puck.

Of course, this might be over kill ... one could use a small block of wood for this, but I like the idea of screwing in the hockey puck ... especially for the tire jockey at the tire shop ... and it makes my life easy in the garage locating the floor jack as the hockey puck stays put while I move the jack in position.

Any comments?



Regards,

Steve

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Just what is it you are "fixing".


There are only 2 available points in the rear to lift and your whatever you call it cant be attached there. There are many structurally sutiable lifting places under the front, all easily accessable with a low floor jack but are low enough that any piece like you show will probably prevent getting a floor jack under it.


It fixes nothing and adds an obstacle or hinderence.


Don't fix that which ain't broke.

Actually, my floor jack fits under it just fine. The thickness of the washers is about the same as the belly pans. But my main concern was the people working at say a retail tire store selecting an improper lifting point ... for example, using the hollow tube that contains the rear anti-sway bar. And, my hockey puck idea can be threaded into any of the four lift points illustrated in the image I included from the owner manual.

Steve

Careful, take a closer look at the owner's manual before you start adding depth to the belly pan. I just checked and cannot find any female thread points on the front or rear jack points (on a 1st generation 360). Below is an image of a rear jack point (heavily used with worn rubber) and maybe what you might be thinking is one? The nut shown holds the belly pan on and would not result in a happy jack experience if you add your device.

I'm taking a guess you were/are a corvette owner and want to add something like the hockey pucks? The vette pucks have a male oval that fits into the frame where on a ferrari there's no hole for it. The greased pucks you've made may be slippery too if they were applied to the frame?

While we're on the topic, the missing rubber on the attached image has me wondering if it's necessary to hold the 360 from slipping while you put her on a full set of jack stands? I want to do this for winter maintenance and am yet to know the exact procedure. Anyone have a video or process to putting a 360 on jacks?

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On my 2004 model, there are definitely four threaded inserts at the precise locations for the lift points. But after reading the replies here, I am thinking that my suggestion is way overkill. My brother, a Porsche owner, suggested that I merely should paint the lift points with red paint to mark the spot and get some actual rubber hockey pucks at a sporting store to use on the jack.

Steve

If the techs aren't willing to take the time to ensure they know how to lift the car...I wouldn't trust them with soemthing as critical as my wheels and tires.

I expect you are right about that. All the same, I will be there to ensure that they do.

Steve

Agreed!

Josh, with your experience it would be a sweet video to watch you put a 360 on 4 jack stands. Got a few minutes to record the process and share?
Thank You

+1 If they don't know how to jack the car I wouldn't let them touch the wheels either. On the other hand I won't let them put the wheels back on my Ford no less my Ferrari. I usually take them off myself and toss them in the back of my pickup truck. Had to many monkeys f-ing up my cars. I won't let anyone put a wheel on any of my cars with an impact gun.

I don't care if they take them off with one but if they aren't willing to put them on with a torque wrench by hand I go somewhere else. In the case of warrentee work I loosen them up when I get home and use a torque wrench. Those torque bars they use on the impact guns don't work that well and not torqueing the wheels properly will warp the rotors on most of the cars with floating rotors.

Yea, next time I have a few minutes to do something like that I will. Key points that i find helpful in the process is to remember that the rear lift points are set at the exact 50/50 split of weight on the chassis. In theory, you could balance the car on 2 stands placed at the two rear points.

Because of this, you can pick up each side of the car from that point and be safe.

I like to jack the car up at that mid point, set the rear wheel on a 4x4 block, then repeat for the second side. Remove the nuder tray, then pick the car up at the mid point again and place jack stand on the frame between the A-arm mounting points, front and rear. The repeat for the second side.

I am going to attempt to fit my new challenge front grills. Can anyone advise where/what point on a 360 I should drop the car on to the floor jacks. Presume I should simply jack it up using the front jack points, remove front wheel and drop the car down on to a floor jack - then repeat for the other side, so I end up with the 360 sitting on its rear wheels and 2 floor jacks/stands at the front end????

Any advice appreciated. (for avoidance of doubt, yes, I don't know what I'm doing )

Barry, in this case I like to set the jack stands along the outer msot frame rail in between the lower control arm mounting points. Doing so does require the use of two jacks, one at each side to lift the car evenly and avoid getting into a precarious situation.

I would also recommend chocking the rear wheels to make sure the car doesn't try to slid off the jack stands. It is also useful to bundel up shop rags on the tops fo the jack stan ds to avoid them digging into the rubberized coating and tearing it up.

Thank you Josh. By any chance do you have a diagram/pic of the point in question?

"the outer msot frame rail in between the lower control arm mounting points."

I don't have a 360 on the rack, so here is a picture of the under side of a Maserati QP. I would put the stand along this frame rail on the QP, and in the same position on the 360. The 360 has a flat floor so the frame rail isn't so obvious, but you should get the idea as far as target location.

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Got it. Thanks