Any tips for over wintering a Ferrari? - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-06-2007, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Any tips for over wintering a Ferrari?

The time has come garage the 328 for the winter, battery conditioner plugged in, soft cover on. Apart from a once a month blast on a clear dry weekend day to blast away the cobwebs it isn't going to see a lot of the road until next March/April. It will be going for it's annual service in April, but until then is there anything I should be doing to keep it in good condition?

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post #2 of 7 Old 11-06-2007, 01:01 PM
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Here is an article on FL about it:

http://www.ferrarilife.com/tech/view.php?id=17
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-06-2007, 01:13 PM
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Shipping it to California for the winter.

If that sounds too much like hard work, than just remember to wash the salt/grit off after you have had your fun...and clean the car too.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-06-2007, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Andrew, thanks for that.
I will add that I'm not planning on just leaving the car for 5 months, I will start it up every 2 or 3 weeks and take it out for a 10 - 15 minute run every 3 - 4 weeks. We don't really get any snow in the UK, but after a frost there is salt on the roads, so it won't be driven until we've had several showers to wash away the salt.

The battery conditioner is plugged into the cigar lighter with the battery connected as normal. Is it better to remove the battery? I didn't last year and it survived by only being started every 2 to 3 weeks without a conditioner.

T1f, I would ship it to CA for the winter as long as I could go too, but as it's a euro model it probably wouldn't pass any of the US tests.

Archie
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-06-2007, 04:18 PM
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The "best" way would be to add the fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank, fill the tank and drive it to get the stabilized fuel through the entire system. Then change the oil. Remove the air filter and with the car running spray some fogging oil into the intake until you get a thick white smoke coming out the tailpipes. Then pull the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil in each cylinder, turn the engine over with the key to blow out the excess and then reinstall the spark plugs. This has given all the internal engine components a nice film of the oil to protect them. Reinstall the air filter and remove the battery.

Do that and the engine is good to sit for a year. The 10-15 minute run you give it is probably doing more harm than good. You aren't getting the engine hot enough to boil off the moisture. When you shut the engine off the water vapor condenses on the cylinder walls as the engine cools. To properly boil off moisture the engine should be run under load for 20 minutes AFTER it has fully warmed up.

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"Time is what prevents everything from happening all at once."
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-07-2007, 04:13 AM
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Pete,
I have heard about using stabiliser in the fuel but only from you US chaps. My pal has Mopar and it is mentioned alot there.

I do the same as Archie, though TBH it only runs on my drive and obviously never under load.

I too have been told to just leave it off all winter but am bothered about flat spots on tyres too. Never really sure what to do for the best.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-07-2007, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Pete, some useful tips. I didn't realise that a 10 -15 min run was bad for the car - looks like I'll have to take it out for an hour

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